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n8047035

cutting out-is it the lambda

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Hello all,

 

My C is really starting to play up and at a time when im looking to sell. It basically has started to idle quite rough, and if i rev it upon releasing the pedal the rev counter drops suddenly and the battery light flickers and sometimes so does the oil light. Then when driving, if i push hard to accelerate, i get some smoke and it feels like i am hitting a wall because it just doesnt repsond. Then, when i am slowing down and dip the clutch the car often just cuts out for no reason and other times the 2 lights mentioned seem to flicker. It is actually very dangerous and i need to get it sorted asap. Finally, my mpg has drastically reduced and £25 is only getting me just over 100 miles when it used to be a lot more.

 

Any advice would be helpful and hows to tackle problems would be appreciated as i am very much a novice under the bonnet.

 

ps.- was told by someone that it may have been the idling valve as it appeared to be sticking so i replaced that but it still has same problems-bloody waste of £40

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Ive hasd this problem. i think. its to do with the ground on the O2 probe.

 

Does it stall v easily in reverse?

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I had that problem in my car.

Replaced the spark plugs (were in very bad condition) :o and also added injector cleaning fluid (from STP) :idea: .

Night to day difference! :D

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ooops, Its a G60. I only just replaced the plugs and HT leads so i dont think that could be the problem. How do i check the other problems that have been mentioned? If i go to put it into reverse with properly coming to a stop and am still slightly rolling then it does cut out. hoep you guys can help me.

 

Amrik

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I had the dip in RPM, and then put in some extra earth straps, and it was better, but not completely gone.

 

When I was putting in my air/fuel gauge, I found 2 interesting things:

 

1)the wire that connects to the engine mount is just a ground plane that runs along side the actual signal line, it doesnt connect to the ECU at all.

 

2) the whole lamda harness was rotten. I cut out the connector block, cut back the wires a bit, and put on spades, I now get about 5mpg more round town.

 

I still get the dip occasionally, but I can treally say I have noticed a trend to indicate why I get it.

 

Your problem tho, could be equally atributed to the normal G60 flaws - the vac lines and the blue temp sender. Have you checked them?

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thanks for that. I havent checked those yet but to be honest i dont really know where to start or what to look for. Any hints/tips/how to's would be appreciated. Im sorry if these seem like dumb questions but like i said before i really am a novice under the bonnet

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I know there are loads of thread mate but i cant make head nor tail of them . In eed some step by step instructions on how to check these things out. Car is really doing my nut in but i dont wana have to fork out cash at dealers. Ideally would like to give it a go myself and at least learn a thing or two while im doing it.

 

Hope someone can help me. Pls :(

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oh just thought id add something else-i have just noticed that the first time i drive my car every day (ie when its cold) its fine and doesnt encounter these problems, but once its warmed up it does. Does that throw anymore light on the situation. And finally, ive checked on the swedish and german website to order the temeprature sensors (black and blue) but not usre if they are compatible for the G60 or if they are just for the VR6.

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93493 - TEMP.SENSOR-2 PIN BLK - CO G60 9/88 > £5.40 + vat

93494A - TEMP.SENSOR-2 PIN BLUE - CO G60 9/88 > £6.90 + vat

 

Found them 8)

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anybody got anymore helpful tips. Should i go for changin these sensors cos the cutting out is getting really bad, or could it be something else? Ive searched the forum but cant seem to find much :cry:

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change those sensors mate, they're the cheap end of the scale for what the fault could be... at least if you've put new water temp senders in, you'll know that they're OK afterwards and for the sake of less than £15 is it worth the hassle of not being sure if it is or isn't their fault? ;)

 

Simple to change too... just need a flat blade screwdriver... 8)

 

Make sure you get new seals with them too though, as the rubber O ring which they sit in will be knackered when you remove it...

 

1) with the engine cold, carefully remove the expansion tank cap to make sure there's no pressure in the system. refit the cap and tighten again

2) disconnect the wiring from both sensors

3) hook the flat blade screwdriver under the retaining clip end and lever out from the mounting flange.

4) grab the top of the sensor and with a slight twisting action pull the sensor straight up and out of the flange.... it may need a little twist with the aid of a pair of pliers if it's been in there a long while...

5) make sure you've got the O ring out as well (it'll either be on the old sensor or you'll need to hook it out of the plastic housing with the screwdriver)

6) smear a little grease onto the new O ring and fit it over the new sensor

7) put the sensor into the housing and gently push it into place by hand

8) replace the retaining clip.

9) repeat steps 3 to 8 for the other sensor

10) reconnect wiring and start the car...

 

See if it's any better.... 8)

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Yeah...

I´m with Henny on this one too! 8)

I am almost convicted you will be sorted. :)

But if somehow you don´t. :wink:

Check the ignition timing. :idea:

Lately i have been playing with the dizzy. :mrgreen:

When timing is too much retarded the car run´s like you said.

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hello all,

 

Ive just recieved the parts from GSF, but im not sure they're the right ones. They are black and blues 2pin sensors with a metal cap top thingy (see pics)but there is no O ring and definately no where to attach any wiring that should be connected. I used the part numbers provided by stevemac and they are the same ones but im not sure if they are right.

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Looks like the right ones from the piccies. You probably would have to order the o-rings separately, as they do not form part of the actual sensor. Check you existing ones, you might be able to re-use them.

 

The wiring terminates in a nice connector that slots straight onto the sensor. Take off the connectors from your existing sensors and you'll see they'll fit the new ones :D

 

Tempest

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Ive sorted the sensors and managed to re-use the old O rings. Hopefully sort my problem, although upon Revving the engine, after removing my foot from the pedal, the revs drop below idling and the lights flicker on (battery) and then it stabilises. Any ideas what that could be?

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n8047035, renew the seal rings soon, the old ones may start to leak.

 

Bad idling - renew the ECU vacuum hose (approx £6), new pipe must be exactly 1m long. If no improvement is seen, have your timing reset - should be set to 6 degrees BTDC. Can often get away with 7 degrees BTDC if using Optimax petrol. Timing must be set with the blue temp sensor disconnected & engine revving at 2500rpm.

 

Bad MPG - may or may not be related to the bad idling issue. When was your charger last rebuilt ??

 

Original question about Lambda probe - easiest way to check it is to unplug it & drive the car with it disconnected. No difference = dead sensor, if it makes a difference then the sensor's okay.

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Thanks SteveMac,

 

Thats just the kind of reply i have been looking for. I will get that sorted tommorrow hopefully. Anybody know where i can get those O rings and Ecu vac hose from (part numbers would be helpful)?

 

As for the charger, i havent had it rebuilt since ive had it (just over 2years) and im not sure if guy before me had it serviced. Must add that to my list of must do's

 

Thanks for the help guys :lol:

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ECU hose from VAG for about £10 for the meter, or you could get some silicone stuff from somewhere like Demon Tweeks, but you'd need to make sure it's the correct inside diameter...

 

O rings can be had from VAG, GSF or Euro with little to no wait... :)

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