fendervg 29 Posted March 14, 2021 1 hour ago, Dox said: I thought a faulty cam sensor gave long cranking but still started? Yeah, I'm not 100% sure, but remember I had a starting issue years ago that was only solved by replacing the hall sender - the casing and wiring had become damaged and it would go completely when warm. Just throwing ideas out there - spark test should definitely come first. A faulty crank sensor will stop the engine starting completely, as it cuts fuel as well (injectors won't be fired) - cam sensor can have other symptoms. Beware that just because there is pressure at the fuel rail doesn't mean it is getting into the chamber - the injectors have to open and close correctly, so best test is to check plugs and petrol in the bore or pull an injector to see if it sprays - but the latter is not easy on a VR6! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
v11boy 10 Posted March 14, 2021 (edited) Hello, Thanks again for all the input. there is no spark but I can smell fuel (although it’s an odd smell as I’m not yet smelling right after having Covid) whilst I’m trying to start (cranking, but not firing). recent plugs and leads, and ignition pack. It cranks but no sign of the Rev counter moving. I plugged in the Vagcom which did not show any rpm’s when the engine was cranking. Purchased the crank sensor while there was stock left at heritage so I can rule that out hopefully. how do you change the hall sensor? Its got the later type ignition pack rather than a dizzy - although I’m not clued up on these matters whatsoever!! thanks again Edited March 14, 2021 by v11boy Missed a bit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 29 Posted March 14, 2021 Definitely not a problem with the factory or aftermarket immobiliser? Some of them have dual cut-outs, on the fuel pump circuit and also on the ignition. The hall (or cam) sender is to the right and slightly above the coil pack, looking from the passenger side - IIRC held in by a single or maybe two hex/allen boltes. There will be a 3 pin plug going to it from the main ECU/engine loom - should be straightforward swap. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
v11boy 10 Posted March 20, 2021 Problem solved - problem was a faulty ignition pack. Changed the crank sensor, no change. Same results in VAGCom. The Topran sensor did not fit well, I had to file the plastic away for it to fit into the hole. Before we went into the immobiliser, we looked at testing the spark again - none - and then double checked the ignition. We had a spare ignition pack in hand to test, to rule out that as an issue. It was a new Topran ignition fitted in December, which worked fine to start with. Fitted the used ignition pack, and it fired straight up. Hopefully this will help someone in the future going through the same thing. Thanks for all the guidance! Have since been for a drive and visit to the fuel station, good to be back on the road hearing it sing at 6000rpm! Cheers Dan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted March 20, 2021 Fantastic result. Even better that you got to take her out for a blast. Well done for sticking with it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 22 Posted March 20, 2021 Don't buy Topran anything and expect it to last (or presume it can't be the current issue as its previously been renewed). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted March 20, 2021 5 minutes ago, Dox said: Don't buy Topran anything and expect it to last (or presume it can't be the current issue as its previously been renewed). This Topran really is not good. But great you've got it sorted - time to enjoy! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 29 Posted March 20, 2021 Great news that it’s solved!Top(quality-not)ran strikes again. Made by lovingly beaten children somewhere east of the Urals I’m always amazed that Heritage still sell that stuff, but sometimes there is t any other choice. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
v11boy 10 Posted March 20, 2021 It will be getting driven regularly again now! It’s sad that heritage sell such crap really. As they put the same engine in other marques (previously drove a Ford galaxy ghia x with that lovely lump), can anyone point me to a better version which fits and works?? I need to give my borrowed unit back so will be looking for a replacement, and hopefully a credit from heritage! Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 29 Posted March 20, 2021 If you try the Ford dealer you might get lucky - usually cheaper than VAG as well. Merc used the 2.3 VR6 on some old E series and on vans too, but not sure of the exact models. Bosch, Beru, Valeo and ATE are all good brands if you can find one from them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Poultergeist 0 Posted October 24, 2022 Sorry to jump in on this but having same issue with Vento. Has been sat 10 years, replaced fuel and filter and it ran like crap, so have just done plugs and leads and it won't run at all, just cranks and cranks. Used to hear a droning humming for ages from rear passenger side, but don't anymore. Is that fuel pump location and the likely culprit? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted October 25, 2022 On 10/24/2022 at 1:09 AM, Poultergeist said: Sorry to jump in on this but having same issue with Vento. Has been sat 10 years, replaced fuel and filter and it ran like crap, so have just done plugs and leads and it won't run at all, just cranks and cranks. Used to hear a droning humming for ages from rear passenger side, but don't anymore. Is that fuel pump location and the likely culprit? What engine is yours? Usually when humming the pump is on it's way out, so now that it is silent....... And depending what model you have there is a pump underneath and in the tank You could break the fuel line connection at the engine to see you ger fuel when cranking, just be very careful Good luck Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Poultergeist 0 Posted November 2, 2022 On 10/25/2022 at 7:14 PM, Cressa said: What engine is yours? Usually when humming the pump is on it's way out, so now that it is silent....... And depending what model you have there is a pump underneath and in the tank You could break the fuel line connection at the engine to see you ger fuel when cranking, just be very careful Good luck It's a K Reg VR6 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1xshaunx1 27 Posted November 2, 2022 If it’s the same setup as a Corrado. The pump is in the tank and should prime when the ignition is turned on Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Matt_ 26 Posted November 2, 2022 Couple of things to try - you can put a relay 100 (or bridge the contacts) on location 67/167 and your fuel pump will run constantly on ignition. Take off the fuel line at the rail and you'll be able to easily see if you have fuel (you could do that anyway without changing the relay). However if it's been sat for 10 years it could be anything - immobiliser, crusted up injectors, no spark, wiring fault (mouse chewn). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 29 Posted November 3, 2022 There should be a small allen key nipple on the left front of the fuel rail, used for connecting a pressure tester or for de-pressurising the system - so no need to undo a hose. Easiest way to test if the pump is working is to bypass the relay or hook up a 12v leisure battery to the connector at the tank. If it was humming loudly and stopped, it's most likely given up and died, probably due to contaminants in the tank, but a quick test should rule that out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
