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REMOVING BOOST RETURN PIPES AND FITTING CONE FILTER IN WING?

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After fitting a Golf G60 intercooler I now want to fit an induction kit in the inner wing (away from engine heat) and remove all the boost return system.

Can anyone advise on the best way to go about this and how to go about blocking everything up.

Are there any custom made parts availlable to do this like blanking plates, pipes, hoses etc?

How do you go about fitting a second air filter to the charger or is it best just to blank it off?

Thanks in advance,

Rob.

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Have a look at removing the charcoal canister. I think it’s in tuning and mods. Have a brose around mate. Got any pics of your intercooler?

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I think, from one of Brooke's previous threads, that he has already done away with the cc.

 

Obviously, best people to speak to are probably Darren or John at PD. I know Ant (bananaman) has done this to his G60 though.

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Indeed I have Tom :D

 

Hi Rob the best way to get rid of the boost return pipe is to have an alloy plate made up or a cowling to house a second air filter then its just a case of getting a breather filter to vent the oil vapours on the rocker cover and route the ISV into the intercooler pipe via a dump valve t piece and you can run a piece of hose off the bottom of the T/b to atmosphere I just used the redundant boost return hose and cable tied it in place out of site. To get the blanking plate just give daz a bell he'll make you up one as thats where I got mine from, as for mounting the induction kit in the inner wing give daz a bell on that as well as he sourced me the bits to do the mod :D . Do I get commision for passing trade your way Daz :D

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best thing is to take your isv rubish out,just block all the pipes and adjust your ideling screw to 1k rpm.you can buy a crankcase breather for £10 that just fits on top of rocer cover,looks nice too. for your boost return pipe is best to take it out,you can just leave it free without any tubes so it straight dumps into engine bay (im talking about butterfy valve on the tb)you dont need to filter it but just be sure to cover it with some sort of net so no rubish or bugs can crawl up on it. For the second intake unless you can get cold air to it there is no point to have one right next to the rad,although would help if the right air ducting is done or just blank it off. Banana Man do you get a louder dump valve sound each time you change gear with your boost return pipe off?

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Yep when I boost upto 13psi it is easily as loud as a turbo dump valve it certainly makes people turn round to look at where it's coming from :D If your going to run the second air intake your going to have to drop the rad a couple of inches so you can run the second filter straight behind the grille out of the way of the heat again!!!

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but can you drop the rad though?looks so tight and if you plan a front mounted intercooelr it dosent help either. i should be fiting my new rs1 charger tomorrow with the new chip and ill put a boost gauge son to get some psi numbers. Any tips when installing the supercharger when its new as there is no oil inside it? I will change the oil and the oil filter before hand.

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Right, im confused by some of the G60 tuning to be perfectly honest.

 

Surely its better to re route the boost return pipe right back into the inlet manifold to run on basically constant boost, then Run an actual dump valve to stop the pipes popping off. As far as im aware, thats how Pau1 did it, and that thing was a bullit!!!! :shock:

 

And how exactly do you run a second intake? And why would you want too? I dont understand where it would go.

 

Very Confused!

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The bypass hose throws pre-heated boost back into the charger which then heats up the air more and this then goes through the intercooler making the intercooler even hotter.

 

Also, the oil vapours from the breather coats the inside of the ic making it less effective, and dilutes the octane in the petrol leading to a less intense combustion process.

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hmmm, Does it dilute it enought o make a difference?, the same goes for the heat thing? Whats the deal with the second intake then?

 

Could someone make a quick sketch off all the plumbing with the IC, charger, intakes, manifold, boost pipees etc..?

 

Would help alot in explaining it to people that dont get it!!! :oops:

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well.. you dont route it back into the intake manifold because then you'd be under constant boost.. which you really don't want. it'd probably be really jerky and rough running.. you'd get bad fuel economy since it would always be matching the fuel to the extra air. the only time you want to eliminate blow off is when you start to giver.. which is what the TB butterfly does, it closes to elimate blow-off. as you give more gas the butterfly closes gradually until you're at wide open throttle, at which point it closes completely... eliminating any blow off and taking complete advantage of the boost available.

 

the second intake is on the right side of the g-lader intake casing, where the boost return pipe normally goes. you eliminate the boost return piping, vent that to atmosphere. then rig up a second intake pipe and filter to the open right side of the g-lader. the intake holes are the same size on both sides.. almost like vw designed it to be dual intake :thumb right:

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i have 'the new volkswagen corrado' book that VW of America published, it illustrates a fair bit of the corrado-specific stuff. i'll try to take some scans at work tomorrow to show you... it really helps trying to make sense of it all.

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Well you've just made alot of sense but the pics would help me understand too. Looking at a diagram i understandablerather than looking at a mass of black, pipes, black wires and black pipes!!!! LOL

 

As for the twin intake, it makes sense, but wats the point? surely you're loosing out on boost by doing that? Doesnt it also help oil the inside of the charger?

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The whole idea of running the second intake dubster is to get as much cold air running through the charger as possible the colder the charge the more dense the air is which equates to more bhp :D As for priming the charger with oil I would take the coil lead off then crank the engine for a couple of seconds to get the oil circulating and then reconnect the lead and warm her up as normal at idle. I ll take a few pics tomorrow in the dayligh for you of my pipework as it is at the moment no second intake yet as I haven't dropped the rad yet.

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The bypass hose throws pre-heated boost back into the charger which then heats up the air more and this then goes through the intercooler making the intercooler even hotter.

 

Also, the oil vapours from the breather coats the inside of the ic making it less effective, and dilutes the octane in the petrol leading to a less intense combustion process.

 

well when i cleaned my intercooler i found apex strips and bits of my old charger,i used petrol to brake down all the grease that was in it and there was loads of it

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As for priming the charger with oil I would take the coil lead off then crank the engine for a couple of seconds to get the oil circulating and then reconnect the lead and warm her up as normal at idle

 

Please dont tell me you're going to do that every time you drive the thing!!! :shock: :?

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No dubster thats only a suggestion for lowG to prime his new r1 charger as it wouldn't have any oil in it when he installs it back into his car!! once its been primed it will stay primed!

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ahhh :oops:

 

I have heard of some people spraying a silicone based spray into the charger for protection. I didn't see this as a good idea! Am i wrong?... Again :oops:

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The occasional spray of a ptfe based spray grease is probably a better idea not sure about silicone based sprays though :shock:

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how do i remove the coil lead,where is this as you got me confused :shock: remind me please

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The occasional spray of a ptfe based spray is probably a better idea not sure about silicone based sprays though :shock:

 

Whats that made out of then?

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it's the lead that sits in the middle of the distributer cap and goes to the coil that sits on the bulkhead. As for taking it off you pull it off like you would with the rest of the ht leads

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dubster: thats the procedure when you're reinstalling a freshly rebuilt charger after a rebuild.. if it hasn't been prepped with oil on the bearings. it is not necessary to do this every time you start the car. some people may say that the oil from the valve cover breather helps lube the charger, but i'd say that the benefits of this oil vapour are minimal to none... the detrimental effects of recirculating hot air through the charger constantly is far far worse imho.

 

here's some pics for ya, now i gotta run... my girl's gettin pissed at me payin more attention to boost than her :lol:

 

this should sort ya out...

 

 

dammit... why won't it let me post to the server?!!? arrgh!!! :x

 

ok, the long way......

 

the_new_vw_corrado_pg11.jpg

 

the_new_vw_corrado_pg12.jpg

 

 

 

 

i drew this one up with with dual intake. the boose return gets vented to the atmosphere, the isv gets rerouted back into the throttle body and the second intake on the charger is now available for a second filter.

the_new_vw_corrado_pg12_dual_intake.jpg

 

 

 

 

i1.jpg

 

i2.jpg

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