STORM 2

I have found a specialist plastics manufacturer who is prepared to make the red rear storm badges by hand, based on the original badge. He has made one for me - took him over four hours and the result is pretty good but not obviously identical. I have put this one on the back of my car and its hard to tell the difference between it and the OE badge. I wonder how many of you would be interested in getting either a replacement or a spare to cover theft etc. I realise that these badges are now impossible to get hold of. Anyway cost would be about circa £48 each and if there is enough orders I could persuade him to take a few weeks off and churn them out.

Had it fitted by TSR, looks and sounds just right. I am well pleased with it.

.....

My car has started to 'hiccup' slightly when the throttle is applied. There seems to be a loss of smooth acceleration. The takeup is interrupted momentarily by losses in power so you get a hiccuping effect but the car doesnt stall. Is this a fuel problem? Im using 95 RON Do I need Redex - whats the experience of Redex in the VR6? Cheers

A word of warning however. I had a malfunctioning Scorpion 5000 alarm which I took to a Clifford dealer to be 'ripped out' and replaced. Apparently its quite difficult to remove all components fully so make sure you go to someone who knows what theyre doing. My car ended up being off the road for a week. Plus if youre having a Clifford installed you'll need the certification. On the Scorpion 5000 alarm - some insurance companies will only recognise it a s a Cat 2 alarm if you do not have VW certification at install. I know this because on my old C which had a functioning Scorpion 5000, some insurance companies would refuse to recognise it as Cat 1 because I know the early ones did not automatically immobilise after 30 seconds, requiring reset. I don't know if this situation has changed though. I've got a Cliifford G4 on mine now, but in all honesty I preferred the subtlety of the Scorpion system. 8) 8) *Mod edit - Sorted the quote for you - Henny*

Hi all Does anyone know where to get the 'storm' badges for the rear of the VR6 - either OE or a manufacturer? cheers :)

I noticed there was a thread for a group buy for the oval magnex cat-back system earlier but I think it died Anyway TSR in Bridgewater are doing the same exhaust fitted and including VAT for £350 odd quid. Thought it was pretty reasonable so booked mine in for next week cheers :wink: :wink:

dazzy Kevs heater control mod involves REMOVING THE UNIT and modifying the control cable This is not necessary if the problem is with the fanspeed dial with the copper contacts HENRY - how do I make the pics smaller? :?:

You can use any rotary control unit because all you want is the copper contact unit. This is not sold as a separate VW part - hence having to fork out a fortune to replace the whole unit. However the copper contact unit is MANUFACTURED separately and attached to the unit If you have a problem with the heater control unit only working on higher speeds, then yes it could be the thermal fuse in the blower, but ITS MUCH MORE LIKELY TO BE THE THE COPPER CONTACTS NOT SITTING PROPERLY. These are difficult to manipulate into position (true VW style) and can be broken - see my story BUT, just get an old unit from a passat, dont worry about the cable holders etc. You just prise out the copper unit where the electrics cable connects behind and slip it into your own car's control panel. The beauty of it is that all you need to do is remove the stereo to get at the connector behind the control unit and don't have to remove the whole unit (a helluva job bearing in mind you musnt bend the vent cables etc) Ive tried to upload the pics, but its saying "The Attachment/Image must be less than 1280 pixels wide and 1024 pixels high" If any moderators can see a way round this let me know

yeah but I think he replaced the whole unit after modifying it This is only relevant if you have a problem with the copper contacts (its either the copper contacts or the thermal fuse in the blower that causes this common problem) rather than trying to bend the contacts (and break them in my case!) its a lot easier and cheaper to take out the connector on the unit and replace it

Hi all Just to let you know I've solved the heater control problem (see earlier post). For those who don't know - I foolishly broke the copper contact whilst trying to adjust it (fatigued) and EVERYWHERE I went I was told I needed a new control unit. Cost from the stealers to include fitting £400!!! Anyway I found a way of repacing the worn (or broken!) contacts using a passat control unit I picked up for £12 today. The best thing is you dont even need to take out the control unit or disconnect the cables. A ten minute job! Well I will post a detailed explanation of how I did it with photographs soon - as soon as I figure out how to upload them. Watch this space

Its normal for the oil temp to hit 108-110 at times ,especially when youre pushing it. I'm on my second car and the last one did this as well. VW say its one of the 'characteristics' of the VR6 and shouldnt lead to a loss in oil pressure and performance provided the oil is good and regularly changed. Personally I keep an eye on the oil temp especially when driving hard and back off after a while if Ive been keeping the oil too hot - you'll find the temp drops rapidly below 4000rpm.

yeah hats off - done the LED conversion and I can find my way home at night its so powerful!! :shock: cheers!! :) :) :)

Hi all anyone know how to adjust the tailgate on the C? there sems to be a wider gap on the nearside than the offside when the boot is shut any ideas? thanks :?

hi all just wondering how to remove the heater control panel (in order to replace -95VR6) once the four screws are off it comes loose behind the centre column but I can't get it out towards me. Do I have to remove the centre console? Cheers

I didnt know they were THAT powerful! :lol: :lol: :lol:

AHEM, going back to the original question, anyone know where i can get a bulb for the key????????? :oops: :oops:

According to the Magnex website, there are two options for the tailpipe: small oval or 6x4 larger oval. Are both these OK for the VR6? I would prefer the 6x4 oval I think :roll:

yes thanks will check it out, but i'm having a hard time getting access under the seat Does it have to be removed or is there an easier way of getting underneath it? :oops: :oops: :oops:

Hi all my passenger seat heater is not working any simple solutions? cheers

KTVAN the main problem is the copper contact between the semicircular contact plate and flexible copper contact connected to the dial mechanism. You need to bend the flexible copper contact that rotates, BUT DO NOT BEND THE SEMICIRCULAR CONTACT PLATE ATTACHED TO THE UNIT. This is fixed and is very fatiguable, one bend it could snap off leaving you in my position!! The rotating copper contact lies in between two sets of contacts and must connect with them both inorder to operate the fan. Therefore you must bend the contact gently so that its two ends are bent up and down respectively to bridge the gap between the semicircular plate above and the deeper contacts beneath Remember that the rotating copper contact lies underneath the semicircular fixed copper plate so you will need to twist the dial to position zero to access the rotating contact. Use copper grease as well, as the contact is usually worn. Hope this helps and GOOD LUCK LET ME KNOW HOW YOU GET ON

unless all original keys were torchkeys and have been replaced with others over the years

maybe it was dealer choice then.......

I sadly think that the whole control panel will need to be replaced

I think they were introduced 1994/5 and only on one of the two keys supplied