davidwort

perhaps I'm missing something, but there only seems to be one part listed for all non-abs Corrados, it's also fitted to passats of the same era with the hydraulic clutch(a few had cable operated clutches) : brake-reservoir.jpg[/attachment:3s5hb1oh]

how long and in what sort of traffic/roads are your journeys?, could be well coked up, injectors are probably past their best too, what's the mileage and have they ever been changed? 16v's really aren't good on short journeys from cold at the best of times.

My K-jet 2L 153lb/ft at 5,700 whereas yours is about 145 at 6,000 but then different days different rolling roads, tyres etc, it's all a bit innacurate.

don't know for sure, but as the VR has a slightly wider rear beam than the 4 cyl cars I doubt it.

I've seen a number of user manuals (paper booklets) on e-bay if you don't already have one, don't think VW ever made PDFs of any of these, in fact they were probably pre-PDF anyway, you'd have to scan one yourself.

anyone with a 10mm spanner :lol: (two 10mm bolts holding the distributor in place) you need a timing light, so if you don't have one then any loacal garage should be able to sort you out, base ignition timing is 6 deg advance +/- 1deg at idle the flywheel has a TDC and a 6 deg mark and it's best to set the timing up from here as the belt pulleys aren't as accurate (but near enough), you just remove the bung in the top of the gearbox bell housing and point your timing light in there, the casting of the 'hole' in the top of the gearbox has a little 'V' in the casting to set the flywheel mark to. In all this I'm assuming the ECU hasn't been 'chipped' to give more advance.

I don't think mk2 hose kits have all the water hoses in, Samco don't, and the hose from the header tank to water pipe is wrong, you can only use 5 of the 7 hoses from the mk2 16v kit on a corrado 16v, and then the hoses to and from the matrix aren't included anyway, pain, but you can make up what you need from the right size elbows etc.

I've got a reducing elbow, an alloy coupler and a straight hose on mine, silicon hoses and fittings from SFS hoses.

no, that's the trouble, they wear out so ultrasonic cleaning won't help, the needle in the tip actually wears and the spray pattern will never be the same, new is the only solution unfortunately.

just remove the rear airbox feed pipe, it's only for hot air from around the exhaust manifold on cold days and is operated by a themostatically controlled flap inside the airbox, if you still have the snorkel tube inside the airbox then the rear warm air pickup will be shut off 99.9% of the time anyway, cars without the snorkel get cold air into the airbox all the time anyway and that never seems to affect them, perhaps if you did a lot of -10 deg starts in the highlands or something it might cause an issue, but not for most of us.

It's a sort of lumpy running/mis-fire type thing, I know what you mean, I'd say it's the injectors, but more likely the spray pattern from them being worn. Worn/air leaking seals tends to just cause erratic idling. Worn K-jet injectors can still deliver adequate fuel in a reasonable pattern with the throttle open from the idle position but be pretty aweful at idle. The problem becomes worse when the engine is cold as it's harder for the fuel to atomise, when you add the crude cold start valve arrangement (more fuel getting sucked into certain cylinders) then initial running at startup can be pretty aweful. My K-jet 16v does the same, new injectors are on the list of things to do.

two 13mm bolts and a hydraulic fluid line to screw in, pretty simple. Just bleed it afterwards.

headgasket gone between two cylinders? If the head's not distorted or damaged at the blow, then 30 or 40 quid's worth of headbolts and a gasket should sort it.

After driving a series of mk1's, the mk2 platform was/is so forgiving, I'm admittedly a crap driver and entering a corner totally incorrectly the mk2/corrado lets you get away with so much, I'm sure there's many a time that I'd have been in the ditch in another car, mid corner braking etc.

I've got the same one, ideal for VW rear brakes, around £20 from halfords.

there's a relay on top of the fusebox that controls the fan operation on the early cars, it's possible that isn't operating correctly(sticking?) , so don't assume it's just the switch, sorry but I've never had to trace this myself (yet!) so I don't have any more info.

Euro Car Parts :)

Marine clean is good stuff, if a little pricey, try Bio washing powder/liquid, excellent for dissolving oil and grease :) try the Daz challenge on your car parts :lol:

speak to ECP, I think this is the same part Sump Gasket Part Number: 367440180 £39.36 and free delivery VW part number is 037 115 220B (baffle) for a 1995 1.9TDI mk3 golf

I think you're a bit confused, only the G60 and VR6 have hoses with in-built small bore 'T' offs, the 16v cars just have straight hoses. I think you've got a radiator from possibly either a very early mk2 16v golf GTI or another VW with another engine. If you wan't to use that radiator then you'd have to have a custom hose made, or make up a 'T' by cutting an original straight hose and inserting a standard straight 'T' piece, which I'd imagine samco or SFS hoses or similar would do.

no, it doesn't, get one from GSF etc for a diesel mk3 and yes, they are reusable as they have an integrated rubber gasket.

yep, just order a bottom bearing and ignition switch, might as well do that if you are going to the trouble of changing columns.

I can't see you would make much money out of this, selling a highly modified car on for a profit isn't usually a easy task, in fact I've known a number of people who have considered breaking their cars and selling the parts to recoup more from what they've put into it. I could see several hundred hours of your time disappearing into a project like this, at only £10 an hour that would be several grand gone into it alone! It's quite different when it's your own baby to keep and enjoy.

Don't take the metering head apart. Try turning the ignition on and off several times, allowing the pump to prime the system but not all the way so you crank the engine. If the whole system was drained it can take a while to get the air out on cranking and to pressurise the system back up again. To check the plunger on the metering head, crank the engine for 10 secs or so to pressurise the system then lift the airflow plate, should have even resistance all the way up but no resitance when moved down quickly. If you have a vacuum or engine breather system leak (or pipe not connected) it will fire but die, so re-check all the hoses and pipes. If you disconnect the coil from the dizzy and crank the engine or jump the fuel pump relay socket main pins (use the battery negative lead to turn the power on/off) and lift or wedge the metering flap up, you should get fuel sprayed from the injectors, you could pop one out into a bottle to check, or just look in through a sparkplug hole, should smell it anyway.

would this be a polystyrene rear bushing? polystyrene-cup.jpg[/attachment:11gupycp] seriously though, if you compare an old worn VW bushing with a new poly one you're bound to feel a massive difference, but a new genuine bushing pretensioned properly in the chassis mounting is really very good.