davidwort

If it is the release bearing (I'd get a proper diagnosis from a garage, not a virtual forum diagnosis :) ) then AVS do new ones for about 15 quid, box off job but you don't even need to remove the clutch as it's just seated inside the clutch release arm in the bell-housing. They don't always get replaced with clutches, but do generally come with complete clutch kits these days. If a garage does the work for you and you are paying all that labour then you might as well have a new clutch while the box is off, but if you do it youself then you can inspect the clutch and only replace if necessary.

6 deg is the factory setting, there is a 6 deg mark on the flywheel if you don't have a timing light with advance adjust. Just check it with the engine up to temp and the radiator fan not running. A KR should only be run on 98 RON fuel and above, so you shouldn't run it on 95, some may get away with it but bear in mind that pinking starts well before it is audible. Run on 99 RON super unleaded you might get a bit more power by advancing a degree or two higher.

mmm, 6 speed does sound good, mother in law even has 6 cogs in her 1.6 golf FFS! so is it just the driveshaft flanges that need changing to 100mm ones then? (for a 4cyl car) I'm tempted to put a tall 5th cog (diesel?) in the 8v 02A box, seeing as it will just be doing cruises down the M1 to work anyway.

I might have known James had stripped down an 02A :notworthy: viewtopic.php?f=23&t=21908#p229921

go for it regardless, it has the rare 'Karmann Interior' :lol: fixed your link too...

mmmm, as you pointed out the fork bearings... the brass bushes in this post on CGTI look interesting http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showpost.p ... ostcount=3

no, sorry, I meant to refer to the number of the part, that was the point of the piccy :) no. 15 is the offender

A combination of solvent paint thinnners I had left over, petrol, lots of rags and some wire brush attachments on the electric drill. Petrol and solvent gets off the oily dirt and the wire brushes remove the alloy surface corrosion. It started off as a quick clean to make refitting it more pleasant and I then got carried away :)

gearbox selector fork shift segments, anyone know if these are worth replacing without a full rebuild, sel-fork.jpg[/attachment:1izw60tm] I remember seeing some worn/broken ones on Toads old VR box and was thinking perhaps they would be a good part to replace, that and checking the dimensions on the selector forks are correct, i.e. not bent. It looks like you can split the box casing to gain access to 1st to 4th gear and their selector forks but you need to remove 5th gear with a puller, anyone done this before?, any tips? Might get myself a second hand box to practice on :)

Another few hours spent on the 8v, springs, suspension legs, rad cowl de-rusted and painted up, new bushings in the wishbones and the gearbox cleaned up. clutch friction disk was a nats-winkle from the rivets, so no wonder it was feeling a bit on the heavy side. front and gearbox mount are beyond it and the gearshift relay lever is cracked - no surprise there, crap bits of plastic. New top mounts, drop links and arb bushes to go in. stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdfpainted.jpg[/attachment:2hkfxlct] Corrado92.pdfrad-cover.jpg[/attachment:2hkfxlct] passat climatronic wiring diags.pdffront-mount.jpg[/attachment:2hkfxlct] climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfgbox-mnt.jpg[/attachment:2hkfxlct] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfg-box-dirty.jpg[/attachment:2hkfxlct] gboc-clean.jpg[/attachment:2hkfxlct] notice the skateboard :lol:

well worth the money IMO, I built a near identical setup myself years ago, (1) it takes ages to do the construction job thoroughly (2) it's operated faultlessley for 10 years (unlike unprotected relays a lot of people fit) (3) if you do ever get a sticking relay, the multiple relays mean you'll only lose one side whether on dip on main.

noisy/sticking tappets won't cause any damage, sometimes one or two can make a really loud noise for the first few seconds on startup as they pump up, they're generally worse with lighter oil but there's not really much you can do to revive them once they have got gummed up from years of use (and probably not frequent enough oil changes) and you can't tell which ones are the trouble-makers once you have the engine apart so it's really a case of replacing all of them if the noise is getting too much for you.

gearbox release bearing?

Have you ever seen a windscreen fitter following a manual? :lol:

James was lucky too and picked up a brand new seat ibiza cupra (mk1) rack from e-bay for a song, the part he used was the same VW part number as the revised part for 1992 on 4 cyl Corrado racks, it's basically a mk2 golf 'quick' rack (as fitted to mk2 16v and G60) but with the 22 spline input. Strictly speaking that rack doesn't 'go with' the Corrado VR6 PAS pump, but James didn't seem to have any problem :shrug: This is where I've been puzzled before as the mk3 golf VR racks are the same (TRW) type as the 4 cylinder Corrado ones (different casing to the Corrado VR), but with the plus axle longer track rods. So it's entirely possible that you could get a recon golf VR6 rack with warranty and new pattern track rods for under 200 quid if you fit them yourself. This is the bottom end of the 'new' parts price range, I've had no problem with pattern (FEBI) complete track rods on a 4cyl, but they may not last quite as well on a VR.

glad you've got it sorted :) CrazyDave (DG) told me some time ago how nicely K-Jet/KE-Jet cars run on brand new injectors, from what I understand the needles in the injectors actually wear and the injectors should ideally be replaced at around 80K. Ultrasonic cleaning won't make any difference to a worn CIS injector, seems much more effective on modern electronic injectors but then detergents in modern fuels should keep them clean anyway. I have to admit I'm not "eating my own dog food" here because I have 165K injectors on my car :lol: I think one of the reasons people don't change them is wear initially affects starting and idling and it's fairly subtle at first, so injectors go well past their best before they cause enough trouble to seriously affect driving. You should get much better mpg now too. Another good experience to remember to help others out with in the future too :) C-forum pledge drive thread viewtopic.php?f=18&t=26992

seems quite common for fitters to tape screens in place to hold them while the bonding sealant goes off, but from what I understand the genuine screen kits come with special blocks to insert at the bottom of the screen to hold them in exactly the right position. I guess part of the trouble is pattern screens then, as well as poorly trained fitters in a rush.

try Open Street Map (OSM) Open source mapping project, I've just loaded maps for Florida onto my Garmin for a family trip next year, just to try it out. Fantastic detail and free. I think the entire USA fits onto a 4GB SD card, if you only have internal memory on your satnav one of the links from OSM had maps compiled from OSM data by state, whole of Florida was 33Mb, every sodding footpath at disney is on there :) You'll need map files complied for a tom tom I guess (from OSM data) but somone must have already done this as for the garmin units. Or you could pay through the nose for maps from Tom Tom. Probably cheaper to just buy a sat nav when you get to the states TBH.

put your steering on full lock and get someone to hold a track rod while you rock the steering back and forth 1/4 turn on the steering wheel, any slight clonk felt and heard from the track rod means the inner track rod joints have play, ends get replaced for MOTs, inner joints don't as they are not on the MOT. You can't adjust the rack and they don't really wear that much, it's all the other stuff, steering column joint, suspension top mounts, bottom ball joints. For 20 quid a side you can get new pattern complete track rods for a 4cyl car, so worth doing anyway if they are original. A 2l 16v rack would need the matching UJ from the steering column to the rack, as the number of splines on the fitting to the rack changed in 1992 when the 2L 16v came out, that's the only difference though. It's possible I suppose that the valving on one side of the rack has a problem, so you would get more assistance one way than the other but I'd check and replace all the easier stuff first.

follow the steering column down until you get to the start of the universal joint that connects the bottom of the column to the steering rack, the pinch bolt holds the column to the top of the UJ.

how about this: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Automot ... 795/p37075

good point, or front mount I guess, both could cause engine 'bouncing' as the clutch is let up.

I suppose it could be oil or grease contamination of the new clutch, but I tend to agree with Supercharged, do you know what make of clutch you had fitted, LUK or sachs tend to be pretty good.

had a few damp misty mornings, perhaps you have a slight ignition problem, start it cold after 8pm when the light has faded and if it does it again look for leads arcing, perhaps check if the distributor cap is clean and dry inside and out.

left tie rod 379.5mm +/- 1mm allegedly