davidwort

only problem might be temp sensors on the head, but the KR just has three black top ones the same, and if you look closely they do have the part no. stamped on them.

brand new? if it's genuine VAG and brand new then don't turn it down, otherwise get a new pattern mk3 one.

There's a lot of info on the club GTI forum, but I'd suggest before you reach for the dremel, it's a skilled job and just ripping material out of inlet ports will end up reducing power. Best thing as a DIY job is to remove any casting irregularities in the inlet and exhaust manifolds and ports, don't mirror polish, but do internally polish the combustion chamber (helps prevent knock on higher ignition advance if nothing else). You can also port match the manifolds to the head using the gaskets as a template.

it will fit, but don't use a mk2 part, you want a mk3 matrix which is stronger, it's the mk2 ones that VW fitted by-pass valves to the feed and return hose, to prevent them exploding if the system became blocked or over-pressurised.

just pop into GSF and ask for the best quality bits for each of the items you are after, they'll do fine on a 16v. If you wan't the bearings to last 10+ years then you'll need to take the same info to a VW parts dept. All either business needs is your reg number.

The specific value isn't that important and the parts have changed over the years anyway, you just need one around 0.3 and one around 1.8 bar I think, it's only for the warning when pressure drops off really badly from the pump so as long as the bar rating is within 10% or so it should be fine. They should be able to tell you if the part no. you have on the part in your hand is obseleted though :scratch:

car looks excellent, and a lovely colour to work with too, good work with the old matrix, it's only a matter of time but I've not needed to do one yet, why oh why didn't VW make them more accessible, the freakin mk2 polo ones are a 10 minute slot in job from the scuttle are :roll:

do halfords still do a free alternator/battery check? it sounds to me like one of the diodes in the alternator diode pack as gone (which would be curtains for the alt) but check all the cable connectors and battery fully first (cheaper)

faster you go the louder the stereo gets :)

you'd need a full new dash insert, vents etc and the dials are expensive to buy second hand to top all that they are much less tolerant to use/abuse than the slider ones, I'd stick with those, proven mk2 technology :lol:

check and see if they are powered with ignition on or off, the standard looms had all sorts of extras for options not normally fitted.

G60 pump is unique to the PG/1H engines (G60 engined cars and Rallye) I'd imagine it's because it's a high capacity version of the 8v pump, i.e. drives distributor, although it may well deliver the same capacity as one of the valver pumps.

yep, just lower them a bit and get a spanner on the captive (or not as the case may be) nut, just had to do that on one side on my 8v

irwin bolt grippers or similar are the recommended medicine :)

you may laugh, but in a couple of years all cars will have them, EU regs and all that, and as LEDs are fairly efficient expect most manufacturers to use them for DRLs.

in the indicator/fog recess but they give you an idea

what do you all think, set into the original clusters? am I just having a mad 5 mins? I hate every Audi and Merc I see with them, but it might be envy :lol:

well I just bought another pair from AVS for my 8v (FEBI I think) and I can't for the life of me see why the FEBI ones are inferior to the genuine VW ones I took out I can't vouch for everyone, but I've not had to replace my valver ones yet and they've done 60K on very hard springs and dampers, I don't drive on really bad roads though and avoid potholes at all times :)

should really do a search on this, asked and answered a million times, but yes, after 1992 the wings are 10mm wider and align with the bonnet sides differently so if you mix and match you won't get a straight panel gap with the bonnet.

beware, once you press that stuff in place it really sticks! only issue is that VW attached those trims with what appears to be a glue rather than tape, in order to stop water building up behind the trim you need to make sure the tape is carefully joined if you need more than one strip to make up the width of the trim, it will also be very fractionally thicker than the original glue, but I can't see it can be noticed, just make sure you get a neat edge to the tape along the edge of the trim.

yep, that's the early(er) passat style top mount, on cars up to and including 1994. I'll get slated for this, but I've had 10 quid GSF jobbies (with hard eibach springs sat under them) on for at least 7 years on my valver and they have been fine.

always hated those reiger? body kits (orange ebay car) but I really like the one from the original post, tyre width a bit OTT for me but the bodywork looks very well executed/finished and I'm usually pretty conservative where obvious body mods are concerned :)

this stuff e-bay is pretty tough, used it for rear VW badge on mk4 and the wing rub strip on my corrado

k-jet is extremely reliable, I wouldn't ditch it just because you haven't checked if the second hand components you fitted are duff too, without checking fuel pressure you are just stabbing in the dark. Carbs will give you more trouble without a doubt, and to top that you'll drink twice as much fuel. Still yet to see any carbed 16v's make the power claims people band about, they're always 'nearly finished' :lol:

febi ones will do the job but may well corrode quite quickly, best give them a liberal spray of protective wax. I'd suggest Lemforder ones from ECP, expensive but probably identical to the VW ones.