davidwort

pretty much any solvent seems to shift it, I've used petrol, panel wipe, white spirit etc... try a small patch first though to make sure it doesn't affect the paint, my 8v is a 1994 car and cellulose thinner dissoves the paint, I thought they would be 2-pack paint but obviously not, should be protected by a 2-pack lacquer in the engine bay though so impervious to just about anything bar paint stripper! have a look here at my cleaning on the 8v

got the wishbone, suspension leg and brakes on the nearside this afternoon, then realised the roll bar was underneath the wishbone and not on top :epicfail:

The Corrado 16v (1.8 or 2L) is a fair bit heavier than a mk2, so will never feel quite as urgent as a mk2 16v Golf. The 2L engine does have that bit of extra torque to compensate, but has marginaly higher gear ratios (1.8 has same ratios as a mk2). I'd look out for the best car generally, a 2L (unless it's one of the very early 2L cars) will have the later style interior as well as exterior changes, but there's good and bad of both out there, keep your mind open and try to find the best cared for car.

have to say, pretty impressed by that, I'm still picking swarf out of my carpet :lol:

some list of injuries there :shock: like you said, make sure you hassle and hassle to get the medical attention you need asap. been reading though your thread again, always nice to see money time and care being spent on a 16v :) great read again :salute:

slowly but surely getting more bits done in the evenings, need to get this thing on the road for the winter gearbox back on, new clutch in, ECP came up trumps, 60 quid for a sachs clutch kit (bit of trade discount in there) Book1.pdfclutches.jpg[/attachment:1rzknw1h] got the remains of the sheared rear subframe bolt out from the floor without damaging the thread, very careful drilling :D not much left of it now :lol: stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdfbolt-remains.jpg[/attachment:1rzknw1h] new arb bushings, and a liberal coating of protective wax over everything ETKA Corrado.pdfP1010350.JPG[/attachment:1rzknw1h] a ten quid gearbox mount, trade from ECP again, wasn't expecting much but it's pretty good compared to the vag one actually stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdfP1010348.JPG[/attachment:1rzknw1h] paranoid about my forgetfulness with torquing up bolts, so everything is getting a blob of white paint when it's been done :) Corrado92.pdfP1010355.JPG[/attachment:1rzknw1h] P1010356.JPG[/attachment:1rzknw1h] no, not considering lawnmower power, though it's not far off the 8v :) also, a new gearshift relay lever, looks like VW have changed the design again, must be 4 or five different ones of these I've seen now, still rubbish design though :roll: passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfP1010354.JPG[/attachment:1rzknw1h] standard suspension bits, nice comfy winter driving I'm hoping :) climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfsuspension.jpg[/attachment:1rzknw1h] what a freaking tangled mess, they don't design engine bays like this anymore :lol: 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfP1010357.JPG[/attachment:1rzknw1h] next installment will be the wishbones and I'll be nearly there

there's a tiny difference in rear track (literally a couple of mm) , but that may actually be in the rear hubs and not the beam. The VR6 has the brake compensator mounted on the beam so I think some minor brackets may be different, I'd have thought the inbuilt ARB would be slightly different too, but that's only a guess.

:brickwall: :bad-words:

Ah, I see now, the reflector was badly tarnished, not the glass severely damaged :) I can see how your bill added up, if they fixed everything on the list there would have been at least a couple of hours labour, plus parts. It does seem a bit steep though, totally depends on what parts they sourced and the cost of them plus their hourly rate. They should have included wheel alignment too.

put it in your sig then :) the manifold is fairly easy to remove, couple of brackets support it at the back and then the nuts that hold it to the lower half at the front, you obviously need to move the ISV and injector line support brackets as they supported on those bolts. Oh, and the vacuum pipe to the break servo at the back. Get a (4 hole) new gasket for the two halves of the inlet join though, they tend to break up if they are not very new and your manifold will just leak air in.

you need a new top mount on the suspension by the sounds of it, about a tenner for a new pattern one, you need a spring compressor (15 quid from screwfix) and a slotted nut removal tool to remove the top mount from the strut (about a fiver) It's probably an hour long job and either a special slotted socket (to get an allen key onto the top strut nut) or an air gun to remove the top mounting cap. Easy job really. Why did you take it for an MOT with a smashed headlight though? :scratch:

any particular engine?

very clean looking car, nice one :)

no, I didn't mean exhaust emissions, it's illegal to vent a crankcase straight to the air if the car was built to burn oil-vapour in the engine, so I imagine that technically it's not legal to change the manufacturers fuel vapour emission control (i.e. the carbon cannister)

absorbs fuel vapour that is then released and burnt when the engine is running IIRC you can remove it, shouldn't though as it's emissions related, like venting a block to the atmosphere.

seem to remember someone saying around £120 recently.

Worth giving the braking system a good going over, check the caliper pistons move nice and freely, perhaps renew the brake hoses, definitely bleed the system through and check the rear brake compensator if free and set appropriately for the height of your suspension. Half worn pads will not be as resistant to fade and I'd imagine your disks are far from perfect. I still run 256mm brakes and my wife always comments on how good the brakes are, nice feel, bite well but also progressive, yes you might get some fade if you hammer them over again in a short space of time but they work nicely for an everyday driver and stop the car well from high speed, helps that they are non-ABS too I think.

on a 16v I wouldn't bother with anything bigger than the G60 disks and calipers, you can get pattern G60 disks and pads for very little and there's not really anything else from the VW stable that just bolts on. Any aftermarket/racing/multi-piston calipers are going to be expensive and unnecessary, my 2p.

Rolling road day is always a good opportunity to get a basic check on the performance for 25 quid. A power and torque plot can often reveal is somethings up. If you do really drive mainly 10 mile or so runs and not much stopping and starting I'd expect nearer 32/33mpg overall, possibly better. Just for comparison, I've done a lot of 20 mile commutes on the M-way recently, with a couple of miles of juntions and short sections of road on each trip and I've just done a tank to tank fill, over 400 miles on the small 55L tank on my 1990 16v and it averaged 37mpg, with more town driving in the mix it's usually down to about 33.

No.

flippin' 'eck mr supercharged, how about a rear beam refurb, axle bushes, dampers and a half respray while he's at it :lol:

if you look in my gallery thread for the disk change (buried in there admittedly) I say: hang on, I just quoted myself :scratch: :lol:

have a look at my steps here: viewtopic.php?f=11&t=19344&start=15#p931739 the rear disks have the taper bearing races pressed/tapped in place, totally different to the front hubs.

I'd take the switch out of the dash and test it for continuity on each speed first, just to make sure it's really at fault.

at least not the cheapo one, and if possible look at the BQ one before buying, hopefully it's a valeo one and should be basically a VW mk3 matrix. Have you priced up a genuine one? it's not a great job to have to do again in a year or two.