davidwort

are your anti-roll bars clear of the wishbone?, they can be very close with pattern drop links. oh, front wishbone bolt is the same torque too.

130Nm (96 lbft) on the wishbone rear bush bolt and no corrados have metal sleeves, the subframe has locating horse-shoes instead.

probably something to do with the fact that a new Scirocco TDI is is the same price as a VR6 was in 1994, adjusted for inflation a new corrado VR would be 30 grand in 2010. and an early 16v (1989 - £16,500) would be £31,000 :shock: (this is based on UK annual inflation rate)

yeah that's exactly the same as my strut nut tool.

more paint fun, just got this little toy from amazon for 11 quid: passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfDSC00603.JPG[/attachment:27zg3297] for touch up work on the car it's the business! you can get a little adapter for a couple of quid to run it off a spare tyre instead of buying cans of propellant, I just put a few PSI in the compressor tank and it comes with a 1/4" bsp connector to screw into a normal air line, bit of overkill :lol: I had a few nasty scuff marks on the front bumper which has had a bit of filler in yesterday so I thought I'd practice with a bit of primer on there, never used one before and it's really cool, you can spray 3-50mm wide so can do the tiniest of repairs without making a mess with a normal paintbrush. climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfDSC00604.JPG[/attachment:27zg3297] how about doing this next on the bonnet: 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfimages.jpeg[/attachment:27zg3297] and how about this down the side: girl.jpeg[/attachment:27zg3297]

The only problem with the above adjustment is on a worn rack you can't compensate for wear in the straight ahead (or just off) position without tightening too much for the rest of the rack, and as it says in the note you'll have problems with self-centering. Worth a go though, before doing a full rack change with all that entails. Jim, I reckon the hydraulic valving in your rack is past it I'm afraid.

if the cylinder leaks you could have contaminated the new clutch friction disc with fluid :( I'd whip the slave out and have a look

what road speed?, wheel balancing usually comes on about 60 and can fade away over 70

oh effin sh1t! - how the hell do you miss a yellow car FFS! that's terrible news, but anything can be sorted, I had a mk1 with a bent round inner wing (I drove it up a kerb and into a brick wall - don't ask) was labelled as doomed by almost everyone but it was jigged perfectly straight, you just need the right place to do it, no reason it can't be put back perfectly right. take care of your neck, it might be a while before things tighten up and you feel the effects

Condensation like that is usually caused by the heating and cooling process through the day drawing moisture up through the floor, it condenses in the evening on the inside of the roof and then drips to the floor to evaporate and start the cycle again, metal sheds suffer the same problem especially if they are in a sunny position, this actually increases the draw of moisture up though the floor I'd look at damp-proofing of the floor, possibly lay a sheet of membrane and a concrete screed over the top of that. I'm assuming there isn't a leaky gutter or something else causing the problem.

from what I've seen there are a couple of ways to do it (without using stand alone engine management) either you fit the mk4 clocks into the corrado dash, or you use the corrado clocks and run the mk4 clocks behind the dash.

all you need to do is make up for the section cut out of the original one piece hoses, so yes a rigid pipe of the right size and a couple of jubilee clip and you're away

the painting isn't rocket science, just a bit of reading off the web and a 40 quid sealey HVLP spray gun I used cellulose paint (easy to use) and an acrylic clear lacquer on top (that's harder than just leaving bare celly) a big roll of plastic sheeting from Screwfix (to make my ad-hoc spray booth in my garage) and a 3m paint-spec filter mask - which is bloody good, makes a great seal on your face and filters out all the smell of thinners. the rest is just time, flatting back between all but the last colour coat (as it's metallic) and using panel wipe fluid and tack rags to clean the panel before painting. It's cost me a fair bit to get all the kit together, but I can now do pretty much anything and the compressor was a godsend for undoing the front suspension strut top nuts :)

when the stat opens at 80 degrees ish the bottom radiator hose should get warm pretty quick as the water flows through the rad at this point, up to then the hose will stay fairly cold. If there's no sudden warming of the bottom hose at the correct temp then you may well have a radiator problem.

bit of a faff, but it might be easier to put the front of the car on axle stands under the front sills/rear subframe mounts first and then put the jack unde rthe engine, that would give you easy access to the lower starter bolt from underneath then too.

Well, she's ready for the road again, new clutch is so light, should be a pleasure to drive. Dead chuffed with my first painting efforts, the new wing has come up far better than I had hoped, it's possibly a tiny shade darker than the original VW paint, but considering the red pigment I doubt if a body shop would have got closer. It got a couple of coats of primer, 3 of colour and 2 clear lacquer on in the end passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfP1010393.JPG[/attachment:xp0811t3] climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfP1010392.JPG[/attachment:xp0811t3] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfP1010383.JPG[/attachment:xp0811t3] and the scabby cam cover got a repaint, car's looking half presentable now P1010377.JPG[/attachment:xp0811t3] now, just need to get it down to the garage to set up the tracking/alignment and get a new lambda on it.

be gentle, put a lump of wood between the jack and the sump :)

err, don't forget to support the engine, the starter bolts hold the front engine mount bracket on!

yep, only difference is the number of splines on the rack input shaft, both 22 on the 2L rack and 36 on the 1.8, so you need the UJ from the appropriate age of car. The end of the UJ that attaches to the bottom of the steering column is the same on both types.

I reused the stretch ones on my 16v once, but I wouldn't recommend it :lol: The garage my dad works at never seem to have an issue with pattern head bolts, I can't see why the VR6 should be so special in this respect. I've only ever heard of problems mentioned on forums, but quite what happened in those 'anecdotal cases' is anyones guess, probably warped heads anyway.

All very well, but neither would go round corners :)

:scratch: are you getting fule in the control pressure lines? - the ones that go to/from the warm up regulator on the gearbox end of the head?

PMSL ! you could see him fighting the old barge round the bends on the circuit, awesome build quality too, my dad had an estate for a while, they were basically a morris marina underneath 8) having said that, silverstone racing school used to have a fleet of them as their training cars :shrug:

does the metering flap pull up smoothly with no sticking points, if the plunger is sticking then fuel supply would be restricted. You should get slight but even resistance as the plunger moves. [strike:26s3mi1q]have you tried pulling the injectors and spraying into jars, do none of the injectors spray anything?[/strike:26s3mi1q] sorry. you did say nothing came out of the metering head lines to injectors

are you getting adequate fuel pressure to the metering head?