davidwort

yeah, you need an etching primer to 'stick' to the metal and form a base for everything else to key to, anything else straight onto metal will tend to crack and flake off try to remove all signs of corrosion though and if needed use filler and/or a high build primer on top of the etch. I'd also consider buying a tin of etch primer (e-bay sellers etc.) and using a airbrush (mine was 11 quid from Amazon) as rattle cans offer little control over the amount of paint and where it goes :)

...and the rear seat through the washing machine :) P1010428.JPG[/attachment:1qkaedko]

Few more hours spent this weekend, generally cleaning and tidying. Sills are in great nick, credit to Karmann's build quality, couple of stone/jack damaged bits of underseal so cleaning and then fixing those up. It's had about 4 cans of wax protective spray on it already (subframe, rad panel etc.), but the sills and arches need a really good clean first. stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdfP1010403.JPG[/attachment:1vlvfyjr] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfP1010404.JPG[/attachment:1vlvfyjr] passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfP1010407.JPG[/attachment:1vlvfyjr] Corrado92.pdfP1010397.JPG[/attachment:1vlvfyjr] climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfP1010399.JPG[/attachment:1vlvfyjr] P1010425.JPG[/attachment:1vlvfyjr]

well it came off fine, just wasn't sure if I'd do permanent damage whacking it :) I sprayed some PTFE spray on the threads and it seemed to go back on really easy.

accumulator holds pressure in the system after engine off and regulates pressure too I think, sure it's got some valving in it, this may be affecting pressure, you really need that pressure checked at the metering head.

p'raps your flywheel was a bit scored and it took a little while to bed in :shrug:

maplin 12v heater :)

I sometimes stick a sheet of polythene over the windscreen and shut it in the doors to stop it blowing away if it looks like frost... and I remember. One place where Fords are great, the front heated screen.

sorry, couldn't stand it any longer, changed 'Fiber' to 'Fibre' :)

yes, but they have an adapter pressed onto the column as standard so would in theory take a smaller boss with that removed.

engine and year? preferably note the part number too, and then put up an ad in the wanted section.

cheers chap, I'll just hit it harder then :)

yup :)

how on earth can you remove the plastic locking ring that secures the in-tank pump in place?, tried my usual heavy handed approach and it's having none of it. Any tips welcome (there's a special VW tool for it apparently)

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=19344&start=90#p1125355 my 8v LUK next to the new sachs one, LUK one did 160K on the 8v, never fitted a replacement LUK I don't think myself, but speaking to my dad (still works at a garage) they fit LUK ones to all sorts of cars and seem to regard them as a better quality clutch than the real cheapo ones :shrug:

no, it would need to go on the front of the engine behind the alternator, that's where the crankcase breather is located. but you need to have it 'in-line' and not vented to the air, couple of reasons, firstly it would fail an MOT being vented to the air, and secondly the crank case needs some negative pressure from the inlet 'sucking' from the crank-case.

a G60 box (longer legged) would probably be better for you, direct swap.

LUK are original equipment, my 8v clutch has just come out and had LUK/VW logos and part numbers stamped next to each other, it was the original factiry clutch no doubt. I've had two sachs ones from GSF and ECP and they are fine, they do a 230mm clutch now that is a replacement for all the 4cylinder 228mm clutches (they are actually 228mm if you measure them though), spot on as far as I'm concerned, 60 quid with trade discount from ECP.

does sound very nice, should be able to get top money for it, the sort of car that with the right buyer around at the time could go for over 4K I reckon, nearer 4 than 3 anyway.

should be 4.7 to 5.4 bar with the engine running, so I guess same at cranking. it could be the pressure accumulator at fault too, that is the other box under the car along with the filter and main pump fuel.jpg[/attachment:3frh21p2]

you need a fuel pressure gauge with the correct adapter unions, not cheap to buy, best off finding a garage that has the kit, but then your car is immobile :scratch: It's worth replacing the fuel filter and checking if the lift pump is OK though, there's 2 pumps, one under the car and one in the tank.

front spoiler is more of a problem I reckon, as it needs to be capable of being scraped on speed humps and driven into kerbs without shattering, the original material is pretty tough in this respect. I'd quite like a 120mm front chin spoiler :)

I found I needed to put a washer behind one pattern droplink to space the curved bushing supporting washer down a bit, but it depends on the make of drop link as some have one big washer that is welded in place, in that case you'd need another 'free' washer of the same type to space the bushing up a little. Glad you stopped the knocking anyway, a little copper grease on the threads is a good idea (for the next poor soul who needs the bolts out) as cutting the floor out to get at the captive nut is not what you want to be doing!

well his 16v wont

Hmm, I just got a quote of £23.50 inc discount from my VW man! :( Seems a bit steep to me. I WILL get to the bottom of this noise one day! Let's just hope it's nothing to do with the Wavetrac diff! Next stop is taking the O/S driveshaft off again and taking a look at the gearbox flange, but that's another topic. ask GSF or ECP, I'm sure you can get them for about 6 quid at places other than VW.