davidwort

crank bolt the correct part and fitted correctly? the only time I've heard them come undone is when they are reused (if they are the stretch type) a new bolt should come lightly oiled, then should be torqued correctly, from what I've heard, over oiling or using threadlock can cause incorrect torquing and/or stretching. Quite a few people use the older (mk1 golf) reusable non stetch type, but I'd imagine VW moved to the stretch bolts for a reason.

bit of WD40. new main seals helps too, old ones get a bit hard.

yup, isounds good, and it should be height adjustable (but not like the Corrado), the whole tube/column pivots on the UJ and is lowered and raised on it's bracket.

the bypass valves are similar in design, one is metal and the other black plastic, one goes in the feed hose to the matrix the other in the return hose, both fitted by cutting a section out of the two original hoses. the two valves have a small bore pipe between them that is the pressure relief across the hoses for the matrix if it gets blocked. I bought a selection of silicone hoses from SFS, elbow reducer from the head outlet of the 16v, an alloy coupler and some lengths of straight hose and made up new hoses for the feed and return to the matrix, now they match my golf 16v silicone hoses and I've lost the by-pass valves, I can now get super hot air very quickly after starting from cold :)

I feel the cabrio discussion coming back again :)

TBH I've only ever seen the by-pass valves on 16v engines and my 8v doesn't have them, perhaps the upgraded matrix was fitted from '94 on or something :shrug: I would have though that G60's would have had them as a recall though as the 8v engine/cooling system is basically the same as the 16v, Supercharged will know for sure.

I wouldn't panic, they are only there to help prevent a small possibility of the matrix blowing out if the system over-pressurises, you can either go the whole hog and fit a new VAG/VAG quality mk3 matrix (stronger end caps) or just live without them. I've removed mine as I was sick of the restriction they put in the heating system for the winter. I've heard they are obselete new (have you tried VW), and they do fail themselves eventually it seems. I take it you know where they should be fitted? - just before the bulkhead where the water hoses go into the cabin.

their usually hidden from view... you'll need to whip the dash undertrays out and follow the heat/cold bowden cable down to the air distribution unit behind the dash, see if the flap is operating open/shut, hot water always flows though the matrix, no on/off valve, the heat is controlled purely from a flap opening/shutting.

poor old Guy, I reckon he thought we were a bunch of nutters... well I suppose we are :) forget who it was, but at least one guy managed to get him to sign their sunvisors with a marker pen, that was an inspired idea :clap:

is the return hose warm pretty soon after the feed hose gets warm? (where the hoses go into the bulkhead from the engine bay) If they are both hot then you may have a problem with your flaps :norty:

look right, at my avatar :grin:

very difficult to tell from photos or video, best to witness the difference yourself, to get an idea, get a multimeter and measure the voltage at your standard wiring connection to the headlight, then compare to the direct voltage at the battery which is effectively what you get with a relay switched feed straight to the lights. It's surprising how much the voltage drops through the original loom, length of wiring, old wiring, switch terminals etc. all take thier toll. The clean earth straight back to the battery is also a great improvement.

excellent! who's is this do you reckon? c_in_factory.jpg[/attachment:1o3mzrt8]

you just need to connect the feed and return hoses together in the engine bay to by-pass the matrix, metal tube (copper pipe?) and a couple of jubilee clips. look for where the two water hoses go through the bulkhead.

not the best description, but a lot rides on how good the leather is as that's worth a fair wedge in good condition. It really depends on what someone's willing to pay, but a clued up buyer is going to want something off the price to cover axle bushes and the matrix at least. I'd have thought you'd get over 1500 for it, but without seeing the car ain detail the price could vary by a grand I reckon. At least by-pass the matrix so a prospective buyer can drive it :)

I've added this to the new wiki here that wiki editor :bad-words:

good on you for attempting all this, nothing magical, it just takes time and care (that your garage probably wouldn't bother with) if you want to bleed the brakes I can really recommend the Gunsons Eezibleed kit, just a bottle that connects to the top of your brake fluid reservoir and is pressurised from a car tyre valve, makes it a one man job and no chance of getting any air trapped in the caliper. Halfords do them, so do Screwfix and most other motor factors, around 16-20 quid. http://www.screwfix.com/prods/33881/Van ... ibleed-Kit

I've been adding more info this morning, anything else anyone thinks of please feel free to register and edit the WIKI :)

congrats, you passed the test :)

It's more of an option than a requirement, at least on some boxes, a lot of VW parts departments only seem to stock basic mineral oil at a fiver or so a litre, they really need to check a) exactly what your box should have in it and not guess :roll: and b) see if there's any service bulletins that spec a revised grade of synthetic for 'trouble' boxes, I know this is def the case for some TT boxes.

to be honest I don't know, I used some CV grease I had lying around updated/added the WIKI from the old knowledge base try this article now

the anti-squeal plate also acts as a heat shield for the caliper piston, so worth making sure they are in there couple of other things, I always file the rust off the carrier where the pad backing touches, to ensure the pads free off from the disk when not being used I'd also extract the slider pins in the carrier, clean and re-grease, making sure they're not corroded and move freely too. think the wiki article could do with a little expanding...

OK then, I'd probably warm it with a hair dryer, scrape off the worst/thickest with a plastic ice scraper and then rub the rest off with some petrol or panel wipe and cotton t-shirt type rags.

It's in the knowledge base, if a little hidden: Tornado Red G2 LY3D 88 - 91 Flash Red D8 LP3G 92 - 95 end of this page: http://wiki.the-corrado.net/the_corrado ... #downloads

If you have/can find a good knowledgeable dealer, they should be able to advise you on the correct fluid, there's a lot of variations on gearbox oil over the VAG range now, not like the old days when everything had the same stuff, some of the new boxes can be very particular and bind if they've been filled with the wrong stuff. A dealer should be able to state the correct version of the VAG fully synthetic fluid for your box, should be around 30 quid to fill the box with fully synth, it may have had basic mineral from the factory but don't be fobbed off by the dealer, there will be a fully synthetic version specced for your box too.