davidwort

not impossible, but I'd say it would be very difficult to get something looking OK with rattle cans and a metallic green, rattle cans don't spray a very relaible and fine spray, pretty much essential for metallic paint where you can't cut back the final colour coat. I've just done a wing in dark metallic red with a good compressor and a mid priced HVLP spray gun, took 2 coats of primer 3 of colour and two of lacquer, it's pretty good but the effort and consumables required to get a fair quality job make it much more sensible to get it sprayed by a paintshop, especially as I had a wing and tailgate done a while ago for 250 quid.

anyone know why the part of the engine loom that connects to the knock sensor on the front of the 8v (digifant management) block has an extra spade connector coming off? Is this a generic loom for a second knock sensor (odd as it's only one wire) or something to do with testing the knock sensor in-situ :scratch:

I thought the voltage regulator was in the brushes and the other item is a supressor?

have you got the correct 2 piece later style top mounts? sounds like you've got new early passat ones by mistake

that's reminded me, it does indeed need a bit over 1m for the samco hose as you can't get as short a bend to the rad as with the material braided original stuff, but as you can only order samco in multiples of 1m you 'll need 2m. I bought 3m and split the cost with someone else, that gave me 1.5m and just enough left out of that to do the little link hose on the heater matrix bypass valves when I had those in.

8mm internal and 1.5m (so you'll need 2m) IIRC

pair of ABF cams? cheap and another mm of lift over the KR cams. really wild cam profiles just mean you need a 1500rpm idle and peak power and torque gets shifted higher up the rev range, I drove a GTI engineering 2.1 club sport once, went like a wild thing but the smoothness of the bottom end was definitely compromised, think that had mild-ish shricks on it. (190 ish peak hp)

I feel a C-forum how-to coming on :)

don't think it matters chap, it's just a thermostatic switch, which presumably opens/closes the 'circuit' at a certain temp, think it's to operate the flap inside the airbox to allow warm air from around the exhaust manifold into the airbox on cold days.

I'd imagine you'd be looking at a couple of hundred quid even at a small independant garage, it's going to be a 3 hour job even if you know exactly what you're doing on a particular model. It's not a complex job, just time consuming and needs lifting and support gear etc for the engine and box. Doing my 8v one soon, done the 16v before but I'd imagine it will take me a whole day at least, lots of different sized bolts for a start and they'll all need torquing up correctly when reassembling :)

There's plots on here somewhere of Jim's old standard 2L 16v, my 1.8 and 2L moddded and unmodded and a bunch of plots from GVK's old 16v (42 and 50mm inlet on the same engine) and other modified mk2's with 1.8 and 2L engines. I must have had mine on different rolling roads six or seven times now and the peak torque is always between 145 and 153 lb/ft the high power 16v's (180bhp plus) all make less torque (than cars on 42mm inlets and standard cams) until well into the 4-5000rpm plus territory, granted they use the bigger inlet but they only make bigger torque peaks at well beyond the point that more standard cars do. You've really got to build a blueprinted very special engine to reach the flow limit of a 42mm inlet, and then you've got to drive the car at high rpms all the time to reap the benefit. I remember GVK doing a back to back swap on his 2L with the 42 and 50mm inlets, he gained 1 or maybe 2 bhp peak but lost something like 4-5lb/ft, he went back to the 42mm.

I've got on really well with a gunsons eezibleed screwfix just connect to car brake fluid reservoir and a car tyre valve to pressurise the bottle.

yeah, you will get that impression from speaking to a lot of people, but the reality is (like a lot of quick engine mods) you tend to lose in one area if you fit something to gain a bit in another. The larger diameter intake may make a 'KR cammed' engine feel like it picks up/pulls better at the top end, but the reality is what you feel is the difference in lower torque at the bottom end and more of a transition to the top end, i.e. the torque plot becomes peakier. If you see back to back torque plots from rolling roads it's pretty clear that the 42mm inlet engines have a bigger area under the curve and are therefore faster point to point as you use the whole rev range. Even highly tuned 16v engines tend to only develop the extra torque at very high revs which might be OK for a track car, but can be pretty unpleasant as a daily driver. I had my 42mm inlet ported, rough polished and matched to the head and I've never had any complaints, when it was on the 1.8 or now on the 2L block. It pulls pretty close to the red line in 5th, so I can't see there's any restriction on the inlet side, if anything it's the cams that are the main limit on my engine, but then I still think the KR pair are a good compromise for torque and top end power on a 16v engine. Sorry for the waffle, my pet subject as you might be able to tell :lol:

Nope the 9a inlet is 42mm whereas the KR is 50mm. ... it actually goes by engine number and not code, KR engines changed to 42mm inlets around 1989 on a certain KR build number on all VW's ,but I've yet to see a Corrado on anything but a 42mm (from the factory) even the earliest 1.8's had 42mm inlets. There's more to it than the inlet runner diameter too, the whole inlet system had minor revisions including the size of the chamber after the throttle body. Unless you run a raised rev limiter, flowed head and aftermarket cams there's no point in the 50mm inlet anyway, it will sap torque from the low and mid range and will provide little or no top end gain.

My 9a revs to just over 7k and that's standard.... dunno where your rev limiter sits, but the rev counter on the 2L red-lines at 6,500 and with a standard 9A inlet cam it'll run out of puff well before then, whereas a 1.8 will pull cleanly to the 7,200 red-line/rev limiter.

I'm sure I used a bit of WD40 to persuade them to come out, it is a pain when they do that, I'm sure with a bit of lube and some jiggling everything will be fine :norty:

this has been covered many times on the forum, essentially the 2L has more torque (about 10% to match the 10% increase in capacity) but is strangled at the top end by a flat inlet cam and a CAT. the 1.8 is a fair bit lighter, lighter block, generally no ABS, smaller fuel tank and many other small additions to the later 2L cars. there's not much in it in standard form, both cars will do just about 130mph but the 1.8 has slightly shorter gearing and revs to 7,200 versus 6,500 in the 2L, acceleration is much the same too, perhaps more fun in the 1.8 but not really any quicker, problem is there are good and bad examples of both around and in either form the good one will be far nicer to drive than the poor one.

The VAG mineral oil is fine and relatively cheap, I rate the VAG fully synthetic stuff though, although it has to be said the main benefit of the synthetics is when the box is cold. I'd change the gearbox oil on any 100K+ car, it's not expensive or difficult to do and can only benefit the box.

you chaps need to keep an eye out for very early 16v's or 2L 8v's breaking I reckon, that was my original plan to get all the parts in one go, but it just so happened that someone on the forum had bought the early trim new by mistake and was selling them on as he had a later car, right time right place thing. I'm sure VW didn't obselete the late parts first deliberately, it must simply be down to stock in Germany (back order) I reckon, just so happened the late parts ran out first. If I sell my 8v next year I might convert it to an adjustable column first, the fixed parts should be worth more than I paid for the car by then I reckon :lol:

if the system can't pressurise because of a leak then the boiling point is lower than the pressurised system would be, hopefully you've found your problem

that's just the original late dash style part numbers, the 01C is a sub number referring to the colour - black

:) get yourself an 8v 2L corrado... now if only it wasn't digifant :bad-words:

yep, early 36 spline rack input and matching 36 spline UJ or late 22 spline rack and matching 22 spline UJ columns are all the same and both UJ's mate up to them the same.

if it's from a 16v or 8v then it will go in, but you'll need the later UJ to join to the bottom of the steering column, reason being that the 1992-on cars us a rack with a different number of splines on the input shaft, and the UJ needs to match. Corrado VR6's use an alloy bodied rack with ribbing on it (4cyl ones are steel) and a different of PAS pump, as they also have longer track rods the VR6 rack isn't suitable.

Absolutely. Euro5 is very tough. Porsche threatened to pull production from Europe if the original EU5 targets were actually pushed through, so it'll be interesting to see what happens there. If Porsche leave, others will follow, which will bring Germay's manufacturing industry to it's knees! Was speaking to a friend who works at VW head office in the UK, there seem to have been a number of concessions built into the future EU motor industry legislation. 'Volume' manufacturers need to bring their overall model range CO[sub:23wx07o5]2[/sub:23wx07o5] emissions down to a fairly low value in the coming years, somthing like 130g I think, apparently BMW are there already, FIAT too, but other's like VW have some way to go. There are some interesting details though, I can't remember the exact figures he gave me, but if manufacturers exceed these values they get fined per car they make which applies to each gram of CO[sub:23wx07o5]2[/sub:23wx07o5] above the average their cars reach. But there are also 'weightings' or concessions that consider vehicle weight, so if you build heavier cars you get away with more basically. I assume this means a Porsche that only manages 30mpg combined, would effectively have more tax on it in total, but not be legislated off the road. I guess this was part of the reason the V6/R32 engine went too.