davidwort

E clip has a middle bit (like the middle stoke in an 'E') and so holds the clip tightly in place. Later versions of the cable change 02A box had E clips on the gearlever pivot, with a small cut out in the centre to locate them even better and stop them pinging off presumably, VW obviously spotted the problem eventually :)

ah, right, was a core plug then :)

treated myself to one of those when maplins had one type on a very good offer earlier in the year, drove everyone mad pointing it at everything in sight, the laser pointer on it amused me for hours :lol: seems to read the same from the water hoses and head as the MFA and gauges on the car do though so it's fairly useful, still want a thermal imaging camera though :lol:

is there not more room behind a VR lump than a 16v one to get at it from the bay though?

can all be done, both bearings, even rewinding. I'd have thought replacing the diodes on the diode plate might be tricky as they are heavy duty soldered in place, but on the bosch 65/90Amp alternators it can definitely all be done, just need to find somewhere that would do the odd one, which is why most people just go for an exchange one (70-100 quid generally)

:lol: yes, that would be my gf being camera shy! Cheers for the comment, people say there is a way to retain the plate should i sell, but i have no idea...wouldn't the rado then become a Q plate? :confused4: always did like the green storm and beige leather, very nice. power at the wheels was very good in 2003 too! you can put the plate on retention for a fee and then the car would get assigned an unused plate from that year, so it would stay as a P plate or whatever.

I n..n..n..know..w..w..w..what you mean so did I, looks like the old 8v lump is very healthy after all, excellent, even and high compression on all cylinders not bad on a 160K totally original engine. think my little issues are down to the lambda, it's MOT passable but was wavering about a bit on the MOT gas analyser, lambda wasn't dead steady and the CO wandered about, so def putting a new one in now. top mounts are sha99ed and one track rod end has a bit of play, few more jobs on the to-do list.

don't fancy doing the UJ, that's inside the bay onto the rack, could be a right baa-lamb.

looks good Jim, I'll need to double check a couple of the minor bits, can't remember exactly what they are all for off the top of my head.

so is that a screw in element kind of thing, like other sensors on an engine or a 'core plug' in the engine block casting?

so, what was the problem/solution then?

re-reading my how-to thread, I think you'll need the bush/bearing from the bottom of your existing c tube but the spring from the bottom of a polo tube.

give me a pic of the bits you have Jim and I'll tell you what you are missing, I take it you don't have the polo outer tube then?

If you have a complete polo column, a corrado tube and plastic trims you have everything you need bar a couple of bolts. Otherwise you need a fair long list of bits to make up the whole thing from new parts, my polo column had the key transponder/receiver thing on it so I guess the corrado one is the same unless the adjustable Corrado one is different (think I've still got that polo bit in the garage!) Having an early 16v or late 8v fixed Corrado column is the best bet as you'll have everything bar the bolts. - my 8v steering issues are obviously not column related then :lol:

UJ shouldn't be an issue, I think it's just the UJ to rack splines that changed from early to late corrados. you can use your lock barrel on the old fixed column if you are happy drilling the little hole to release the lock barrel on the fixed column, in theory it makes the car easier to steal as the lock could be popped out more easily by someone who knew what they were doing, but in practice I would have thought you have an immobiliser anyway. you need a couple of regular bolts to replace the shear bolts (same spec as the original lower column tube to dash ones), and some fat washers if you like the steering column really low :)

can't we arrange a column tackling party? ... no, hang on, that doesn't sound right does it?

wiki how-to: http://wiki.the-corrado.net/fan_speed_t ... epair.html

try e-bay for a bosch one, the cheapest pattern generic ones do seem to give more than their fair share of trouble on the 2.0 16v.

I think what you mean is a full waterpump or just the impeller half, don't mess with half the pump, buy a complete one, not much more anyway. The two 10mm bolts holding the plastic housing/water hose connector on (that have the stat underneath) shouldn't be a problem, but don't overtighten them when you do them back up.

yeah, comma's in ETKA descriptions are really decimal points!

a dodgy earth to the head can cause wild oil temp readings as the sensors rely on the earth to complete the circuit. a 16v shouldn't run with oil above 110 degrees whether stationary or cruising really, hammer them and it will creep up but even so I'd say 120 was way high, I've had several 16v engines over 15 years and never had one that hot whether sat in traffic with outside temp over 35 degrees or flat out on the autobahn.

yep, does sound like a stuck-shut stat. much easier to fit the stat with the pump off the car if you fit a new pump anyway.

Kip, my cars had a little double sided sticky rubber pad, not the dollup of mastic :)

you need to at least remove the rear roof trim piece and pop the top of the c pillar supports out a little, this allows you to jsut about get your arm under the headlining to loosen the aerial base nut. I can't see how the fitting instruction on the e-bay ad would work, as you need to loosen the aerial to seat the seal properly, then tighten it up to make a good seal.

just to point out, there are two types of aerial on the Corrado, late and early. The early (I'm guessing '89-92) type is more angled than the later ones and uses a conventional car stereo fitment for the lead. The seal mentioned above is for the late type corrado aerial, it's wider and shorter than the early ones.