davidwort

no water came out! there's definitely something up, better get that radiator flushed both ways with a hose to see if it's restricted. you don't want to be cooking the head and warping it.

result! thanks for posting the details/pics back up after your exploits, wonder why they are different in the first place?

yep, was a good episode, enjoyed this one a lot, wasn't really going to bother after last weeks. Loved the F1 turbo too.

it's just the deposits from the oil breather that feeds into the airbox from the crankcase. you could vent the crank breaker into an oil catch tank and blank off the breather pipe entrance to the airbox but ideally the crankcase needs a little suction that the inlet provides. it could be that your engine just breathes a bit heavily, but most 16v's tend to suck through a bit of oil, especially if driven hard. If you had major engine issues and the crank case was over pressurising then loads of oil wuld blow through, but I'd imagine you've just got years of normal breathing gunk through there. Carb cleaner should clean it off nicely, any volatile cleaner including petrol is fine to clean it off with before reassembly.

your next problem will be that you can only select 6 of the 7 available options as one user Kip :lol:

can't see why you can't just stick doen the bit that is coming away, other than struggling to get the tape in position without leaving a gap for water to sit in. Same goes for width of tape, ideally you want some the full width of the trim, so no gap for water to get into, but with care, two strips of the narrower stuff would do and it's cheaper and gives you more options for sticking down other smaller things :)

bummer, even £150 seems a lot for a single box, I've wondered myself about the 16v golf part versus the corrado one, seeing as the downpipe and front small separate silencer are the same part, I guess the Corrado floorplan is slightly different, if the golf box lines up, why not just get the hangars re-welded?

there's a thread on it... somewhere...

The circle is simply from the early car's castings (you are talking about the inlet manifold BTW) and could be removed. I wouldn't fit the larger diameter inlet from the mk 2 golf, it won't give you any more power on a standard engine and will lose you torque. - beaten to it!

or a contaminated clutch friction plate, have you had any oil or water leaks one the end of the 16v head?

I'm sure you can still get pattern 'suitcase' boxes from other exhaust suppliers, my early 16v had one on.

I'm sure you'll always find a taker over on Club GTI, whether it's for a mk2 or mk1 golf, especially if you're only asking the equivalent of a head gasket and a set of new headbolts, there's always someone who's got a blown head hasket :)

I'd probably whip the cams out and sell it on, don't swap it with your 9A, the KR is essentially identical but the bottom end is just that 10% less capacity. The KR head is no better than the 9A one, slight minor casting differences, but it's not going to give you any more power over the 9A head with he KR cams in. If the old KR engine is still sound, then don't disturb it (the head gasket) , it's not cheap to replace the gasket and head bolts so just leave as is and someone else can use it till it pops :)

chap, the polo column is the same as the Corrado one! same part numbers, everything. Only reason the instructions look long is that if you buy a second hand polo column rather than a complete corrado one, you need to insert the column into the outer tube (that bit is Corraod specific), but that is a doddle. I'd recommend taking a second hand complete corrado one to bits anyway as you should replace the ignition switch and fit your own lock anyway.

get a new bolt and do it right, clean, lightly oiled threads (as they come from VW) the correct torque and then stretching otherwise it will come undone again :nono:

don't quite understand your question :scratch:

lambda is a possibility, you've had new injectors, 3yr old plug leads shouldn't be a problem, you car is well maintained otherwise, only other thing might be the metering head itself, and unfortunately you did get water in your fuel a while back, could be internal corrosion related to that.

stretch bolt usually (always replace jobby) 100Nm and 1/4 turn stretch (from Bentley manual)

that sounds like a good idea, will check that out this eve, can't believe it's burnt valves as it goes OK once cruising, just a bit hesitant on pulling away from low revs, smells rich and pops on the overrun, so could well be :salute:

for some reason I've missed this thread till now chap, nice looking VR :D don't know much about the VR engine, but those top hoses to the matrix seem to be a favourite to pop. Must be hot over the exhaust manifold there and the hoses get a lot of temperature cycling :shrug:

few more minor bits, had the battery, nearside light, PAS reservoir and washer bottle out to clean stuff up, particularly to clean and protect the battery tray. behind the light and the battery tray was pretty grimy and a few spots of rust, cleaned up and given a bit of rust treatment and protection for the winter a very worthwhile job on any Corrado before corrosion really sets in. how it was initially: climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfnear_s_light_out.jpg[/attachment:wl0how7k] given a clean and some paint, then after this it had a liberal coating of protective wax, my local ToolStation does cans of protective wax for just over 2 quid and it's basically the same as the VW stuff that is 5 times as much at least! 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfnear_s_light_out_clean.jpg[/attachment:wl0how7k] then gave the washer bottle a good clean inside and out and the battery tray, clamp etc all got protective wax too. battery_back_in.jpg[/attachment:wl0how7k] tomorrow it's having 2 more new tyres, a compression and emission check (might have the head off if some of the valves are suspect) keeps giving 'pops' on the overrun, still a flowed head may yet come out of it :)

yeah, I really like those too, so much better than getting two people to do the job, I never had any problem fitting a new rear caliper, just bled through normally, same when I did my rear beam bushes and fitted new rear lines.

I'd look out for an audi 6A engine (A80 and coupe), same engine as the 9A short block 2L, but just a different sump pan and oil pump pickup pipe. I've opened those up and there's been next to no bore wear on a 150K car, especially the auto's, they get an easy life usually. Then, if you find a good-un, replace the bearing shells and if you want to go a bit further, take it to bits and have the bores honed and perhaps new rings. I'd imagine that with budgeting around 100 quid for the engine (might take a bit of searching as they are becoming rarer) you could do the lot for £300-400. That's based on the crank and pistons being serviceable.

To be safe you need a freshly built engine if you are planning any power increases. VW were (and still are) good at overengineering their cars and engines, so conservatively increased power outputs don't reduce engine life terrifically, but on a tired engine you are asking for trouble. If you were going for a reliable 200bhp I'd look at stripping and rebuilding the bottom end, with VW bearings of course. If well cared for, the crank and pistons should be reusable and the bores a flick hone. A charger rebuild by a reputable specialist (if these blow you can say goodbye to the whole engine) and then a chip tune to match your car are also essential, a destroyed engine, either because it or the charger are on their last legs is going to write off the car value wise. None off this comes cheap, but it's worth doing properly.

all factory G60 Corrados had 8v engines, with the exception of a few one-offs (if that makes sense) it is possible to build a 16v G60, but not a 'simple' head swap, it's a very involved engine conversion and some of the parts would be very difficult to source.