davidwort

I'm not sure you need to do this, I have the VAG dealers manual for the ignition system and I'll double check but I'm sure there's nothing to do before setting the timing. here you go: [ATTACH=CONFIG]79833[/ATTACH]

In my experience 80/100w isn't needed and gives little more output than some good high light output 55/60s and a relay for at least dip beam even on cheap 55/60 standard bulbs (pref new) relaying up makes a huge difference, 80/100 def get very hot and the reflectors are only plastic

Yep, all you can do is set the co at idle on the kjet via the metering head Allen key hole, to tweak the fuelling at higher revs requires a rolling road and adjustment of the warm up regulator setting screw under a brass cap on the underside of the warm up regulator, crude and doesn't affect the fuelling 'map' which is essentially controlled by the metering head intake cone shape, but you can get a bit more power by providing a bit more fuel and base timing advance. My 16v has run happily at over 8 degrees base advance for example and just a tad richer than spec. You'll feel the co at idle is correct though as they just idle sweetly when it's right, someone who knows kjet well can pretty much set them by ear.

pretty easy if you have a timing light, even better if you have an adjustable timing light, you can do a basic setting with white paint on the aux pulley mark/cam cover arrow but it's best to use the TDC and 6 degree marks on the flywheel through the inspection hole on the top of the gearbox. 1.8 16v can be happy with anything from 6 to 9 degrees of advance depending on the fuel and engine condition and spec, best to have set on a rolling road but I'd start at factory 6 degrees and advance a little until you get knock under load/up hill/4th/5th gear and then back off a little. You just do it warm without the rad fan blowing at idle, none of the messing about you need to do with the digifant engines.

If you look at the bulletin it says mainly diesels affected, I'm pretty sure this is part of the noise-damping additions for diesel vehicles + obviously a few other models, like the extended foam covered undertrays, it's definitely described as a 'sound absorber for wheel housing' on the parts lists and only for 'TDI' in the 2003 parts list. I'll check but I'm sure my 1.6 doesn't have them. Out of interest the 2 door cars seem to have more of these in the rear, one in a similar position listed as C-pillar to wheel housing, hopefully these don't rub! [ATTACH=CONFIG]79794[/ATTACH]

I have an internally polished and port matched 42mm inlet on my kjet 1.8 that has a 2L block, the standard cast iron exhaust manifold has had the same treatment and the head is gas flowed, there's certainly no restriction from the 42mm inlet and the car pulls very strongly to the red line (7,200). From my own experience on rolling roads, seat of the pants and reading about similar kjet golf I've come to the conclusion that the 42mm is the best in the majority of engines with the 50 gaining a couple of hp on highly tuned ones, trouble is that's only peak power at the top of the rev range and the 42 still develops more torque over nearly all the rev range which means the 42 will still out-perform the 50 on acceleration through the rev range.

same as mine then, simplest option is to buy a new 'slip pulley' from vw hertitage, if you weld up the existing waterpump slip pulley again it may wear the belt, it clearly needs to drive slightly differently to the deflected alternator/waterpump drive pulleys

I think a few of you are missing the point, or rather points, it's not just about having a cold war style deterrent, it's about high tech industry, capability, political influence in the world, so many aspects. I had a few shares given to me years ago in a UK company that produced robotic systems for inspecting and servicing nuclear installations, it was eventually absorbed into Babcock (a big defence contractor) and the technology developed by these sort of companies is world leading and spins off into pharmaceutical, engineering and manufacturing, as usual we just don't shout about these successes in the UK. I'm in no doubt that our knowledge, technology, development and economy as a whole benefits in many ways directly and indirectly from being a 'nuclear nation'. It's a bit like people moaning about London getting all the focus and investment, if London wasn't so strong and such a centre for excellence the rest of the country would be poorer as a result. The problem with health in this country is not down to lack of spending, all advanced economies are burdened by ever spiraling health costs as technology and longevity increases, like it or not taxes will have to increase to support it, simply diverting money from other government spending that actually enhances our technology and earning potential in the world is foolish.

Nope, won't need do anything to it, golfs came with the same manifold on exactly the same engine, it just shifts the torque curve a little and tbh the 42mm suits the heavier Corrado better

Depending on the exact build date early valvers can have the early or late pulley arrangements, if you can get good pictures of what you currently gave I can tell you what you need, but I reckon the twin pulley from vw heritage in your link is the one you will need

So, the matrix reloaded? ... I'll get my coat... Good on you for sticking with it though Jim, the car's definitely been testing you recently!

drained a matrix lots of times, just fill up the coolant as normal and top up as required after a cool-down, the in and out pipes are at the top of the matrix so air seems to escape from it pretty easily with the engine running.

you can just replace the rubber on an aero blade, but there's a few cross section variations 750mm for £11 http://www.gsfcarparts.com/939aa9990 annoyingly that's 1 1/2 lupo blades length :lol:

swap the wires around as there's more than one identical water temp sensor, gauge, ignition ECU and idle control, that way you can see if all the sensors read the same, if they do and it's a stat problem then the car should get up to 90 degrees stationary but drop lower as you drive and airflow cools the rad. thinking about it, the 9A may not have several of the single pole black top small water temp sensors, in which case all you can do is inspect the wiring near the connection and try a new sensor

bare metal, warm the panel to make sure totally dry and then use an acid etch primer Halfords do a upol one: http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repairs/car-body-fillers/u-pol-acid-8-etch-primer#tab2

The trick is to remove the top metal arm by moving it to a specific position where the opposite end of the arm to the cable connection is free of the front panel, it then lifts up and out. Interestingly the passat ones I had had the same arrangement as the corrado, but with an extra position on the fan speed.

Ok Jim, take some clear pictures of it from different angles and I can explain what to do, there's two stages to the direction controls for the different flaps and there's a definite knack to taking it apart although unless something is damaged it's usually the Bowden cables that cause the trouble for it. Doesn't harm to make sure the distribution unit flaps move freely though, get some ptfe spray from toolstation and spray it liberally over all the plastic parts that touch and pivot, it lubricates well and won't trap dirt.

Jim, I rebuilt some late heater controls and know my way around them fairly well now, if you can post pictures of it at various angles we can give you some pointers, they may be fine, I also have a complete spare air distribution box with a sheared off screen/feet flap lever if you need any odd bits for one. i must have spent a couple of hours hacking away at one of those nuts/bolts in the engine bay, before I had a dremel, think I used pliers, hacksaw, chisel everything, stupid design, all I could think about was doing the matrix in my old polo, which was a 10 minute job as the matrix simply slotted in vertically in the engine bay!

These little buggers, just dremel the nut in two

It's really not that bad leaving the dash in, I think I might have pinged a couple of the clips off the part of the ducting from the fan section towards the main distribution unit so I could take it out in two sections, worst thing was changing a bowden cable with the unit in place

to be fair it's not a bad summary?? OK the no. of valves is a daft mistake but the rest is basically true, the rear suspension/beam is close in design to the Passat although the part no.s are mainly various incarnations of golf, the factory long life exhausts were very good although not strictly stainless steel and everything else bar the strange rusty brake disks comment is pretty right IMO I'd probably warn about high mileage VR6 engines though, as they are so costly to rebuild if they become oil-burners

Or take the bonnet off and winch it up on a rafter or lower it to the ground, jack up the car and drag the engine and box forward under the front bumper each way has pros and cons and depends on the room and kit you have

I drilled it out in the engine bay iirc, bought a spare distribution unit to replace a broken lever so had spare bits for putting it back in the car, pita which added loads of time to the job, did it with the dash in which was a fiddle but not too bad.

a few pics of the bumper back on Newly painted bumper by David0011, on Flickr 20140822_134807 by David0011, on Flickr stainless screws for the brake duct fitting: 20140822_134748 by David0011, on Flickr 20140822_134711 by David0011, on Flickr 20140822_134727 by David0011, on Flickr lots of wax on the front panel: 20140821_160339 by David0011, on Flickr

I bought one of those a while back, the fan blades weren't pressed onto the shaft quite right and it rubbed on the surround when fitted, a bit of careful pressing and trial and error and I fixed it though and it ran great, just something to look out for. I did explain this to the seller and they did say they would check their other stock.