davidwort

Makes sense, alternatively paint a new bumper like my old one without proper prep, then you can peel it off in the future if you need to :lol:

a quick google found some possibilities, some form of bead blasting might do it but this looks promising: http://janitorialsupplies.co.uk/graffiti-remover-plastic-safe-500ml.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjw0POdBRCq3arGgYD05pMBEiQAmiUeTvXOPFAtafHmsCYEfTdXLCaohzaPY7O9mXsxpf_Av8MaAt_-8P8HAQ or http://www.marinemegastore.com/product-product-AQU_Q03203.htm brake fluid or oven cleaner is also suggested

Cool, I should really re-read before I post sometimes though ☺

No mocking intended to anyone, just giving my honest reply from experience of a 16v, he is near and I would honesty do the job, didn't mean to step on toes about selling anything and g60 stuff will be fine if he wants to do that ☺

Buy some standard pagid pads and disks from car parts 4 less for 52 quid delivered and get an independent garage to fit them, total cost iro £100 and if you can't find a garage to do them for 50 quid drive here and I'll do the bloody things for you for that much! 16v stops fine on 256mm disks unless you do a lot of 100mph plus braking and g60 pads have the same surface area, no point IMO they are just heavier and more expensive to replace

Well in my experience it's pumps, more specifically the relief valve in the pumps, the pumps themselves can wear and leak but the noise is caused by the relief valve sticking and the pump straining against a closed rack, a recon pump may have wear in the relief valve drilling in the pump body causing the valve to operate incorrectly. of course it's not impossible for a pipe or rack to become partially blocked and should a rack valve fail then I'd imagine the pump relief valve would shut and deliver pressure as if you were turning and then make some noise.

1st step with fuel pump problems is to change the fuel pump relay on the fuse board/box, location 12, usually numbered 67 or 167 I think, can't miss it, it has two huge flat connector pins and is usually grey or blue.

which engine?

the 16v will have had a fuel filter and pressure accumulator together with an under car pump and a small in tank pump, this 'K-jet' setup was for the pressure required by the k-jet injection. I would have thought for a G60 (digifant FEI) it would be far better to go for the late VR6/2.0 8v setup (4 bar pump), much simpler with the pump inside the tank and just a filter under the car. Edit: It seems to depend on chassis no. early G60 had a setup similar to k-jet with under car pump and filter, late G60's have the VR/2.0 8v in tank pump and only a filter under car.

It works ok but I find the plate on that one isn't quite right for the rear calipers

Have you ever seen a g60 with those rods though? I'd imagine they are obsolete by now from vw.

blueprinting is what you want, each manifold, port, combustion chamber etc perfectly matched, it's time consuming and expensive to do but I've seen a race prepped totally standard 16v develop significantly higher power from this. The VR6 developing peak power at lower revs benefits less and of course non of this is cost effective for power gains on a road car. The old 4cylinder engines can be really improved by balancing fully, makes them so much smoother, but the VR is a different beast to start with.

heat?

if you've got really big wheel/tyres and lowering then I don't think you'll stop arch fouling by simply using the G60 track rods I think these were only intended to compensate for 185 to 195 tyres, it might help a little though if you can find G60 rods?

Can't stretch to the storm badge but I'm tempted by the 20 quid faded polo CL one.

I loved the ride of a friends Corrado on a koni coilover setup, thought it would be hard but it was really good and offered a good range of height options, after that I've been pleased with adjustable koni dampers and eibach spring combination myself, but top end bilstein stuff has been a good bet for decades. It took me a few years myself to realise cheap dampers and springs are false economy and actually a big mistake!

if it was a cross-bow I'd be interested, bloody magpies waking me up at 4.30 in the morning every day, I've tried an air-rifle but they hear me cocking it! :2gunfire:

that's the coolant outlet flange, they do break up internally and leak with age, sometimes the seal, sometimes the plastic. around there you also have an oil pressure sensor (blue wire to the top) and the cam cover gasket, both of which can leak oil, oil feed to the charger too I think (the banjo union and braided hose)

Etka lists the airbag wheel for the last year of production Jim, August 94 to July 95, strange it came several years after the door impact bars, perhaps it was US or EU rules changing for 1994?

nope, 4cyl cars are easy

Yeah, but you don't adjust the metering head on a 9a, it has a tamper proof cap on from the factory!

What? Breaking up foam under the liner? Seems to be a common problem now, inside of my sunroof has just peeled off

Err, the 2l metering head is factory pre-set, half the 16v problems are due to people messing with the metering head to compensate for something else which is at fault, I'm not saying the metering head hasn't been tampered with previously but if the mechanic doesn't know the ke jet system properly and attempts to set it up as basic kjet he can do more harm than good.

Who parked up first though? :)

There's a couple of folk on here who have had mk3 engines in a Corrado, I don't think it's too bad a job if you have the complete donor car, a remapped mk3 16v gives very good power, nice engines