davidwort

no, was only one tiny bit of corrosion on the lip of the seal area, I'd probably buy a second hand tailgate and get that sprayed than repair one that has corrosion going under the glass.

depends what you want from the car, comfort, no extra noise or vibration and longevity, go for all VW original parts cheap, reasonable OEM ride go for FEBI etc near to OEM parts tighter feel and sharpest handling, then R32 wishbone and poly rear beam ones may be best for you. there's no harm in trying to remove the wishbone bolts, if they move OK and free off then the job is not too bad to do at home, even the rear beam bushes are do-able at home with a bit of inginuity.

yeah, you can steve, I did it on my new tailgate for when it was painted, old seal popped back in just fine.

yep, just pulls out.

looks lovely chap, nice interior especially, can't believe how many Corrados you've had now!

:lol:

get that switch done!, they feel so much nicer new too (use genuine VAG ones) once that's ruled out you can then look at fusing/relays for the fuel pump, but from what you've said it's very likely the ignition switch.

have you had faults read? what's the emissions? what are the plugs like? any vacuum leaks from inlet boots or vacuum lines favourite on these engines are dodgy pattern lambda sensors

Genuine one in VAG box from ECP is £38 retail (including VAT), I got it for £29 + VAT trade (couple of quid off)

More stuff for the 8v, headlight glass and PAS and Alternator belts: new-h-glass-belts.jpg[/attachment:2ztc0mim] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfold-headlight.jpg[/attachment:2ztc0mim] what should have been a fairly quick job was thwarted by the rear headlight fixing screw, bloody things, ended up drilling it out and it took the best part of two hours to do it all and clean everything up :mad2:

just done the same on my 8v, same filter and pump on those. the standard fuel line clips just aren't up to the job, too exposed down there, I'd spray some wax underbody stuff over them just to keep the salt spray off.

I bought some of this stuff brilliant, not actually used it for corrado door trims yet but for the VW badge on the back of my golf and a load of other uses, very strong and miles of it!

it's only the lenses that are handed AFAIK the trim piece is the same LHD/RHD (early and late cars are different though) not sure if you can still get the trim separately but you can get the late glasses as a separate item, I've a feeling if you want any other components then you need to buy a complete new headlight unit :(

yep, the 8v continues to consume every spare minute I have. aerial base seal is shot, but after removing the aerial I discover this: climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfaerials.jpg[/attachment:fmow3w6n] wot's that all about then, 1994 8v one is on the right, early one is on the left :scratch: Next, why was the drivers door knob missing? Answer: it was in the bottom of the door, due to this little plastic link clip (the bit that slots onto the lever on the back of the door striker mechanism) what a crap design, fortunately I had a slightly chipped but serviceable one on one of my spare doors. Spare one connected to the lock rods, old one off on it's own below. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfdoor_lock_clip.jpg[/attachment:fmow3w6n] Lastly, tonight I tackled the fuseboard and immobiliser alarm spaghetti, at least the power windows work now, daren't start to completely remove it as several lengths of original live feed wires seem to have been totally removed and the alarm loom inserted in between, I friggin hate aftermarket rubbish like this, more likely to fry your car than save you from theft :roll: fuseboard.jpg[/attachment:fmow3w6n]

shirley Yan wouldn't use GSF crank bearings :shock:

any chance of a few pics of the offending area?

ah, seen those on a ford focus (which uses the same calipers) and wondered what they were all about.

sound like your front mount or bracket to the block is shot.

tank cap will only be a problem if it's blowing out water at normal or below pressure, i.e. cap isn't holding enough pressure, if the system is genuinely pressurising too high then I'd have thought it's more likely a headgasket problem? Always worth measuring how much water goes into the engine when filling from completely drained, then you know if there's a lot of air in there. In my experience a slow fill usually means no more than a cupful of coolant needs adding after the first full cycle, up to temp and fully cooled, the remaining bit of air comes out then.

at that point the MFA switches to gallons per mile.

presumably your's has a cat, I'd get the emissions checked and see if there might be a lambda/cat problem some cars with cats smell really bad on warmup, but VW's are usually OK if running right. 2L 16v's don't seem to like generic aftermarket lambda sensors either.

need to find a second hand one I reckon a custom braided hose (which won't match the rest) isn't going to come cheap. there was a 16v bits for sale thread on here with a meteraing head with all lines attached for 30 quid, bear in mind 1.8 and 2L 16v lines have different fittings to the injectors though.

8V broke 50mpg tootling to work on friday :lol: If you tootle along at a steady 60 it really does creep up that high and although I haven't done a tank to tank fill to check, the MFA is pretty close I reckon so far, town driving kills it back into much the same territory as any other standard C though, perhaps a few mpg better.

yep, I'd check under the back where the pump and accumulator are, the pipes there can get very badly corroded. My early valver has no little flap insode the filler neck and you do get a whiff of petrol from there often, late cars have a sprung loaded flap and charcoal cannisters to mop up fuel vapour. The other fuel lines are pretty visible on a 16v so you should see leaks from any of the unions. If it's running rich then your tailpipe and plugs will be very sooty too.

:lol: I've got about 5 different keys, and not one does the locking petrol cap :scratch: I know what my CL problem is now though, an abortion of an alarm and immobiliser fitment, which I'm presently trying to extract from the car and still let the car actually work!