davidwort

yeah, you want 2 bar, not 2 psi :lol:

a while back now, but my pump was 120 notes exchange from GSF. but it could be that there's a problem with the valves in the rack (sorry that's even worse news) fluid level is still where it should be is it? A change of fluid might be a good first step, perhaps even two. If you do drain the fluid off, it would be an idea to remove the pressure relief valve from the pump and see if there's any obvious crap in there (tiny gauze filter) It's easy enough to do.

if you keep your oil filler cap on, it won't spray on the inside of the bonnet :wink:

Will be painting bonnet soon hopefully and my old foam is crumbling badly now, need something in there, but not sure what.

late model bonnet though, which is also still available from VW if you have an early bonnet there's no OEM foam available.

Thread resurrection time, for those who don't wan't the bling foil coated effect, how about this: http://www.soundproofing-direct.com/pc/ ... -12p57.htm still can't find the OEM waffle type foam anywhere

Personally I think it's too much, you might be lucky, and clean Corrado's are getting much harder to find, but it is 20 years old despite the mileage and an auto box on a 4 cylinder especially is not really what the Corrado is about to most people. Perhaps values have improved recently, but I've known a few people buy tidy 8v's for a grand less than that, albeit with mileages nearer 100K. There are a number of dealers trying to sell Corrrados for silly money and a lot of decent ones going privately very cheaply so I can see how confusing pricing is at the moment.

hall sender on distributor? or possibly the coil itself

the search is your friend :) viewtopic.php?f=1&t=92299&p=1064402&hilit=16v+thermostat#p1063668

told ya it would be nice :) - old cables gradually get worse so you don't notice them getting bad, it's the 180 degree bend over the exhaust manifold that does for them!

I suppose it could be a water gallery leaking into a cylinder rather than an oil gallery leaking into a water one, but then that would pressurise the cooling system. Definitely keep a close eye on fluid levels, are you sure the header tank cap is OK? they have a habit of venting off if the seal is damaged and as the overflow is underneath you might not see it, park on some cardboard overnight. You might have to have the head off to know for sure though.

white smoke isn't good (water) which could mean headgasket is on it's way out a litre of oil in 700 miles is a bit much, but could be nothing more than worn valves guides and stem seals I'd check all of the cooling system thoroughly for leaks, do you get any oil in the coolant or white emulsified oil in the sump? check the radiator, hoses, hose clamps/fittings, and oil cooler (heat exchanger) for any signs of leaks.

unlikely, it'll ruin a cat on a cat equipped car, but should really just make a mess on yours, could blow out of seals everywhere if totally overdone and then driven hard, but you'd soon see that! Edit: tell a lie, ETKA does show a jubilee clip on there

the rail bonded to the glass stays where it is! there's a couple of bolts that attach the rail to the regulator, you can see them through two holes nr the top of the inner door skin if you drop the window a few cm.

I'm using the KR hoses on the 9A breather, no jubilee clips, don't think most of the breather system ever had clips, I think it was all originally just push fit, but lots of people seem to have fitted them themselves, looking under other's bonnets. I'll check ETKA at some point. Hopefully it is just an old hose and not a problem with the engine blowing oil out of the crankcase (piston rings?) - but I don't mean to scare-monger, if that was the case I'm sure it would have been blowing up into the airbox loads

:wave: :scratch: not really sure, if you've just replaced the breather is the gasket to the block OK? I take it you used a new gasket? I think some 16v engines have gauze wedged up one or other of the breather pipes to help collect oil mist and they can clog/block, but I've never investigated exactly where it is (if at all). Bit to go on anyway.

sounds like the solenoid is trying but the starter gear isn't being thrown out, must be a duff starter I reckon, exchange GSF ones have a bit of a variable reputation.

The G60 does have a specific clutch plate (part no. suffix) but I'd have thought it unlikely that a passat or 16v Corrado one would be much different and unlikely to fail so quickly, very odd.

no, don't bodge it, if the seal between the oil filter bracket and the oil cooler is shot, that's an easy replacement sort of rubber o-ring with locating lugs on it, but if the casting of the heat exchanger/oil cooler is damaged and leaking then get a new one, common part on many 4 cyl vw engines and fairly cheap as a pattern part. If it's between the oil filter bracket and the block then it's a little trickier to get at, but there's a fibre like gasket that you'll need to order from VW and make sure you get the part for a 1.8 16v and not 2L 16v as the bracket and gasket changes shape between the models.

:agrue: / :fondle:

I've seen complete ones (new/recon) on ebay for 50 quid or so, worth trying VW trade parts too, it might be on special offer and a similar price. Pretty much all are recon/exchange even the VW ones.

pretty easy, just you need to stand on your head to get under the dash

hold the joint straight and it taps off the end of the shaft with a whack from behind (copper mallet probably best) they're only secured on with a sprung clip set in a groove in the shaft. of course you need to remove the bottom hub pinch bolt and track rod from the hub to move the hub out of the way to extract the outer shaft.

16v distributor is driven off the exhaust cam and is horizontal which makes it more prone to oil getting inside it, usually due towear in the shaft, not the seals alone though, best bet is a new/recon one as you get a new hall sender then too.

6.5 x 16 beetle or bora wheels, bit narrow though, corrado 16v had 6.5 x 15 and they are a bit narrow TBH spacers can be used, need right length bolts to go with, of course