davidwort

this bit: gearshift-tower-top.jpg[/attachment:2anbjt6s]

his own thread :scratch:

partly broken/cracked plastic cable connector on top of gearshift tower (the left/right selector cable) the black plastic part can crack and may still look OK from the outside initially

aren't they there to disrupt the airflow and make it swirl better?

not as far as I remember, they need power to move.

My mistake, the KR engines have another pipe underneath to the deceleration cut-off valve, the 9A does not have this

what about the overrun valve underneath it then???

ah right, that's just the warm air pickup to the air box for very cold days, will run fine without that even being there.

don't forget, at this time of year there's a lot of pollen in the air and (certainly around me) we haven't had much rain for a while and there's obviously a fair amount of dust in the air compared to wet winter weather. I'm not saying some of the dirt isn't ash fallout, but I'd be more worried about bird poo at this time of year, little bu99ers :lol:

sounds like you might have a spring gone in the throttle return mechanism and/or a worn throttle cable, the latter should be lovely and smooth when pulled out and puished in if yoiu release the cable from the throttle body and move it by hand. (there's a KR throttle body for sale on the forum BTW) I think the connection under the air inlet pipe you are referring to is the overrun cut off valve, there should be a unit underneath with an electrical connection and a vacuum pipe running to it, it connects to the underside of the main inlet pipe with a big round, but short rubber pipe, about 2-3cm diameter and only a couple of cm long, but if that was not connected at all then you'd have so much unmetered air going into the inlet it would never idle, same happens if you remove the crank breather pipe from the rhs of the airbox.

I don't think any of them are, doesn't your car have two pipes connecting to the main inlet pipe, overrun valve underneath and isv pipework to the side?

you might have more luck on Club GTI, unlikely you'll get any more power than properly set up K-jet though, it's usually done as a simpler way to install a 16v engine in a car without the K-jet fuel system and electrics already in place.

another pic of fan run on switch, 191 919 521D 100 deg C 1 pin yellow Dsc00516.jpg[/attachment:2svgyimd]

I can't remember if you've asked about this before, but if you disconnect the elec plug under the throttle body to the idle circuit switch you can then check the little switch is actually making/breaking when you put the throttle to the rest position. You could also try isolating some of the vacuum pipes from their various units and blocking off to the manifold, just to doubly check nothing is leaking air in. there's a one way valve to the brake servo too I think, from the pipe at the back right of the inlet manifold which you can check is operating just by removing and sucking from each end :)

god knows, being a VW dealer anything could have happened, might have jacked the car up under the CAT :lol: seriously though, I'd check for anything broken/unplugged under the bonnet, especially around the oil filter area. They might even have lowered your tyre pressures, there's always the chance some numpty saw 205's on the car and assumed 25lb/ft was right? Don't rule out coincidence though, something may just have given up/started playing up

those bits look so good, it must be quite addictive once you start getting things done like that, one day I'm going to take mine all to bits and do something like that I reckon, one day :)

all the senders earth through the head if you post up pics of your bay and al lthe senders then we can tell you if it looks right I reckon your idle control unit isn't being switched on, this is triggered by the switch under the throttle body, you need to make sure that is closing and making a circuit when you release the throttle cable to rest/idle position of course your idle valve may be contributing to the problem

full pic: passat climatronic wiring diags.pdf111-1106_IMG.JPG[/attachment:3qw5lnhr] climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdf110-1100_IMG.JPG[/attachment:3qw5lnhr] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf111-1107_IMG.JPG[/attachment:3qw5lnhr] 111-1101_IMG.JPG[/attachment:3qw5lnhr]

I'm responsible for that :D We'll, not actually getting all the cars together! It was the CCGB National day at Woburn Abbey (2003? - something like that) I think we got well over 50 cars there, pretty impressive, sure someone else can remember more detail.

swap the wires over, as all 3 of the senders are the same the gauge should work on another sender, if not, then it's a wiring or gauge fault

think yourself lucky it hasn't got a dual mass flywheel, they seem to go left right and centre and are fitted to a lot of petrols now as well as oil burners, generally a replacement that is specified when the clutch has to be done, if they don't go before that is :roll: plenty of people get bills over a grand for clutch/flywheel jobs now and on your average family car :shock:

I agree, red has to be the fastest, because all red VW's are T-cut so much in an attempt to keep them red they're way lighter than any other Corrados :)

same as the baby citroens (C1?) aren't they? if you can't get info on the Toyota.

some aftermarket are OK (e.g FEBI) but some are dire, and none seem up to the genuine ones, front mounts take the most hammering and cheap alternatives won't last 5 minutes there if you drive hard

for setting the brake bias, car should be kerb weight, spare tyre, full of fuel and driver, front pressure to brakes should be about twice that to the rear, which obviously needs special gauges and unions to test. But I guess as long as the spring is set so that as you increase weight in the back of the car the bias valve gradually gets moved by the spring, that will be about right, if there's play before the valve starts to get moved than that's got to be wrong, as you'd be adding weight and getting no increased braking to the back to start with. equally, if the valve is already partly moved at kerb weight (e.g. lowered suspension) then you'd be getting too much bias with an empty boot.