davidwort

brent crude is now $80 a barrel, was $115 in June!

Reading from the Bentley US manual, the big ends are 30Nm plus 180 degrees Head bolts the usual 4 cylinder, 40Nm, 60Nm, 180 degrees cam bearing caps 20Nm

Engine?

I'd second that, and try to get a FEBI main rear mount as this isolates most of the engine vibration as it's right in front of the driver in the subframe and some standard pattern mounts are too hard (let alone VT ones), front mounts do break from time to time but you are better replacing a front pattern mount for £30 every couple of years than cracking the front mounting bracket because the mount had little give (seen loads of them broken!) After having said all that I have an old VT mount on the front of my 16v, but it does have some give and noise isn't much worse than standard, I believe this was a softer spec VT one though and may be a bit worn too, think it came from a mk2 golf.

you'd need the centre console trim and ash tray and vents, not really worth it, but if you can find a Passat control (88-95) then you can use parts from that to repair a late Corrado unit

at 1200 a week he's paying a lot of fuel duty (IRO 75% of fuel cost) so he's actually subsidising you :)

Ok, partly tongue-in-cheek, from what I can see the ST 2/3 is very cheap on a 2 year contract but if you're committing to 2 years and something approaching 5 grand you want to make sure you like being in the thing and not just it has lots of toys and is quick. How about stretching to a M135 :)

Jim, a Ford, come on! I hope the ST is better than the lower spec one my father-in-law had as a courtesy car, he hated that, and that was compared to his Mondeo!

love the work you've put in on this car, nice to see another early C kept going. I've a similar windscreen issue, a replacement I had wasn't sealed in 2 attempts by autoglass, I sorted it myself as well in the end. my corrosion is on the passenger side lower A pillar gutter, sad to say at the moment I've just removed the rust as best I can and filled with a metal epoxy, but then my car doesn't really spend any time outside now and in a garage over winter SORNed

very, very hard to say, prices vary hugely in any case on similar cars, if the rest is excellent then as a bargaining chip you could say it's going to need between 500 and a grand worth of screen and bodywork and get a deal, but you need to very thoroughly look at the rest of the car and bear in mind what you want, how long you want to keep it and how much more you want to spend on it over the time you want to keep it, nice leather, good engine, receipts?, rest of it straight and rot free? just don't fall for the storm badge, there may still be other VR6s around that would be a better buy.

I have seen old radiators almost totally blocked, they can be a problem as the 16v has very narrow cross tubes, it's not that hard to drain the coolant and check water flow with a garden hose as Dox says and easypops listed, it's just a process of elimination. You wouldn't expect the 'normal' diagnosis of a headgasket failure from water jacket to oil gallery if it had gone from combustion chamber to water gallery though as with no water meeting the oil you get no mayonnaise (emulsified oil) in the sump. I had an 8v that simply corroded the gasket from water jacket into the no. 1 cylinder, top left of the head, same block basically. have they done a compression test on all cylinders as Dox says above too? - another thing to check off and simple to do.

take it somewhere else if they can't diagnose that, if the water is over-pressurizing then either the head gasket is leaking from a combustion chamber into a water gallery or the expansion bottle seal/valve is failing, does it have a black expansion bottle cap?, these are 'old ones' and should be replaced with blue, sometimes leaking from this is confused with a head-gasket problem. They should be able to check pump and water flow by starting from cold and tracing the heat from the engine around the hoses and to a through the radiator, a cheap IR thermometer is good for this and most garages have one these days.

it's not the road tax that's the problem! oil price article and fuel price calculator at the bottom: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-29903670 [ATTACH=CONFIG]80065[/ATTACH]

passats have a similar unit on 1988-1995 cars which includes a facelift in 93, slight differences as they have a recirculation position and the fan speed settings are in a different position (one out) from the corrado ones, most of the parts can be used though

I don't recall there being a seal, either way, I'd remove the 3 screws holding the inspection hatch down in the boot and simply open the tailgate an look next time you fill up, the tank is moulded up to the filler unlike a mk1 with a separate neck, so unlikely to be that, perhaps the breather system has a split somewhere.

what you want is something with the build quality of an S Class and the driver focus of a Lotus, everyone has their own preference somewhere along that scale, it's easy to pick the wrong trade off though :)

I think it helps that the VR6 engine is heavier and smoother than 4 cylinder cars, I wouldn't want anything other than a front road VT mount on a 4 cylinder Corrado having tried a slightly firmer rear mount - horrible.

In a word, maybe 2, build quality, French cars are built to last until just after the warranty runs out, German cars still seem to have a better focus on engineering. Me, I'd get a Golf GTI over a Clio without a second thought, but if you simply want bang for the buck and aren't that worried about it falling to bits around you there's plenty of choice out there :)

if you look where the lugs have snapped there's usually a shallow cylinder of plastic left, with the right diameter and length self tapping screw and a wide washer to space over the hole in the tailgate I screwed into the back of the plate and it holds perfectly firmly

The fluid reservoir is shared but the most likely culprit I'd the slave cylinder on the top of the gearbox, I guess it could also be the clutch master but the slave is pretty easy to inspect, two bolts hold it into the gearbox bell housing and it is simple to remove

I'm wondering if I've got a similar issue, fairly new clutch but I get a bit of drag with the clutch pedal pressed down in traffic??

I don't think there's much point, the genuine VW ones or pattern metal-layered ones are perfectly good

abf block is identical capacity just longer rods and more suited to a high revving engine (9A was lower max revs than 1.8 kr) you won't get any more power from an abf bottom end but it may be a little smoother at high revs an abf head has slightly revised valvegear and head design compared to a 9A or KR but if you're running K-Jet fuelling then there will be little if anything in it. out of choice I'd get an ABF head, block, cams and complete mk3 injection/inlet manifold, but with the same cam and injection system a 9A head and block will be basically the same output. Look at mine, 6A bottom end (audi equivalent to 9A) with KR head, cams and a bit of porting and gas-flowing, it's always has good torque and power, nothing much different to any ABF I've seen rolling-roaded.

I've got this one, £37 now from amazon, fits the C well and has a zip drivers door opening http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=12282&page=19&p=926504&viewfull=1#post926504

Yes, pretty easy swap 15mm or so taller though the abf block, but don't think it causes any issues, have a search there's a few abf corrados been on here