davidwort

it's the same colour at the other end :lol: if you near the fusebox, somewhere around there should be the same colour (white/blue?) wire with a plastic connector block around the single spade connector, it's probably just dangling under there, it's not connected to anything, I'd imagine there was another bit of loom not fitted to the cars, I made up the rest when fitting my oil pressure and volts gauges.

try club gti forum, info on there for stripping 16v distributor and where to get seals from (for a few pence IIRC)

boxes and clutches are basically the same, the KR has shorter ratios though, partly because the KR revs to 7,200 and the 9A with standard cams runs out of puff well before then. If it's in good nick, I'd probably swap the shift tower and cable mounting bracket fromthe 9A box to the KR as it's a slightly better design, but only if it doesn't have lots of play as you can get good and bad of either.

3rd one reappears behind fuseboard under the dash, it's intended to be used for the 0-5 bar (or 0-10 bar) oil pressure gauge if fitted to the centre console. VW just made it as part of the loom, I guess it was easier to have one loom in case they fitted the gauge at the factory.

caliper has to slide on carrier as the piston presses on one side of the disk/pads only, the outer 'claw' of the caliper pulls the other side/pad and is obviously 'fixed' as opposed to the piston moving. I can't actually remember the 'inside' drilling where the pins go, but I'd imagine they need to be pretty perfect to allow smooth even movement of the caliper.

I think there's a rubber bush on the end of the pedal lever, might just want to see if that looks OK, but there shouldn't be anything else, a new cable makes driving so much nicer :)

unlikely they'll ever make grey ones again (unless they get lots of requests recorded?) but given that for the black ones they have had several types made in the last 10 years or so, I'd imagine they'll have another batch produced, they probably sell more than they do headlights and they seem like a bit of a money spinner for VW.

whack it in, wire up all the K-jet stuff to it and away you go. put fresh plugs in, drive a few miles on it and check the plugs, you'll soon see if it's running too rich or too lean. Once you're happy it's got no major problems, pay for an hour or two to have the fuelling and ignition set up on a rolling road to get the best from it. Nothing major to look out for on the swap, essentially you use the bare block and head from the 9A and all the KR manifold, throttle body inlet, metering head ignition stuff... from the 1.8. I'm assuming you have access to a timing light to set/check the base ignition timing on the distributor. Tweaking the metering head idle CO setting and Warm up regulator control pressure is best left to the rolling road, but you could get another 10bhp from having it set up properly.

Are you suggesting we put paving slabs in the boot to get 50/50 weight distribution on the rado? :nuts:

yeah a few people, 1240kg (kerb) is about right for a VR, but bear in mind they aften have different options from the 'basic' spec car that VW based that on, I don't think on the early cars it even included the sunroof! VW changed/updated all sorts of stuff through the production runs too, like coilpack ignition rather than distributors and lots of other small bits and bobs that aren't obvious. I'd imagine a lot of the UK spec VR's are a bit up on that figure, especially aircon, headlight washers, leather trimmed cars etc.

the latest VW ones are better though, stitched logos and rubber underneath, the ones available a few years back had felt logos and foam underneath and were pretty poor TBH Considering the price, I think VW take the p155 with mats, a 20 quid set from GSF for my mk4 were as good as any VW ones I've seen recently, you are paying about 30-40 quid for a stitched logo. Cash cow for VW me thinks, perhaps the last supplier they had was so cheap that they finally realised they should improve them a bit.

was it a recon starter? sometimes they use dubious parts. You can sometimes whack the thing to release it but that's not exactly a solution. You can swap over solenoids easily enough, but if you bought it new can't you take it back?

sounds like a thermostat problem, stuck open.

brand new starter or second hand? sounds like the starter solenoid is weak and when hot (heat soak from engine after a run) can weaken enough so it doesn't throw out the starter motor shaft and gear, if this is the problem, then 20-30 minutes of cooling down and it will work again.

pretty daft considering some of the old complete alternators are only about twice that price as an exchange item from VW :roll:

a 2L from a passat or corrado (9A engine) will pop straight in and shares all the same ancilliaries you'll need to keep the fuel system, warm up regulator and ignition system from the KR, so don't throw anything away :) it's a pretty easy job as far as transplants go If you wanted to fit an ABF engine (mk3 golf 16v/ibiza) then it's a little more involved, Club GTI forum has a lot of info on this in their 16v section, as a factory engine the ABF is the best 16v, lots of minor improvements over the 9A, but ultimately there's little in it power wise and a 9A on K-jet from the 1.8 goes pretty well :)

if the pressure relief valve in the pump sticks then the pump will try to supply full pressure to the rack all the time instead of only when turning, the pump will be loud all the time and either the pump or one of the hoses/unions will then leak of course it may be that your pump is simly shot and leaking from the drive shaft etc.

all those bits are common with the mk2 golf with PAS and the passat up to about 1992 (all 1.6-2L 8v and 16v cars) so you should be able to find second hand bits, a good vw parts dept will be able to look up the brackets and bolts and order you the right bolts, all they need is your reg no. just pipped me to it banan0r :lol:

gsf might still do them, give them a call

I could bring them to MK one day in the week? pm me. and phone no above removed :)

here's the pump itself, you do need to remove the PAS pump and brackets to get onto the bolts to remove the plastic flange that the bottom radiator hose connects to, the thermostat is under that in the base of the pump. The heavy cast bracket that the alternator mounts on only needs to be removed itself if you want to change the whole pump, but removing the alternator definately makes it easier to get to the pump, it's much much easier to fit a thermostat with the pump off the car though as otherwise the o-ring on the water flange drops out and drives you :nuts: waterpump.jpg[/attachment:13yi5p5r]

very hard to say, anything from 150-200 quid for a rough grey set to 7/800 for a very very good black set maybe?

The round plastic side guides/brackets can get broken, both front and rear. On the front the metal support bracket(for the side guides) can also get bent if they're clouted hard enough, you might possibly need to straighten this out a bit first.

nope shouldn't be any oil apart from a film under the cover I'd suggest putting a small amount of sealant in the corners where the gasket goes up over the distributor and cam pulley, that's all, no need anywhere else, but they often leak from these corners. silicon sealant isn't a bad idea, a tiny dab in those corners will help the gasket seal and the engine won't get too hot for it, I've got silicon baking tray that go in a 200 degree oven! don't squirt a ton in though, it has a habit of blocking oil pickup pipes in the sump! This is tried and tested BTW (silicon), but those cam cover seals are a crap design, VW didn't learn much from the crap cork 8v ones :lol: as for a tightening sequence to the nuts, they only torque to 10ft/lb :lol:

early 4cyl cars have them, later cars and VR's don't you'll not see them on mk4 1.8T cars either, don't think they serve any purpose TBH, perhaps they were intended as extra bracing/support on the early 02A gearbox cars, but VW seem to have just deleted them after about 1992