davidwort

seems like a bad idea, whenever I used to fill my old polos rear washer bottle I'd drip screenwash into the boot :) you could fit a second filler flap on the other side of the car I suppose :lol:

http://www.caravan-components.co.uk/Sealants :lol: but probably the sort of stuff you need a it's non-setting, you can get the tubes of the stuff delivered from e-bay for 3 or 4 quid too.

resilvering search for headlight resilvering :wink:

ISV I reckon, that's what my old one did, I'm running a mk3 8v VDO ISV that has a permanent small air bleed (that's just the design on those ones), it's not perfect, v slightly higher idle but it pretty much works fine, certainly spot on at start up and they seem very easy to come by, plenty about.

God no :shock: if anyone is considering not voting at all, then surely that is a good enough reason to vote for someone/anyone else.

Service no longer available :lol: I just bought 100m[sup:10m2sycj]2[/sup:10m2sycj] of polythene sheet from Screwfix to line my garage for spray painting stuff, might knock up a few door membrane 'replacements' and put them on e-bay :lol:

so what exactly do you ask the dealer for then? bearing in mind most parts depts struggle to cope with the simplest of requests :)

Leave? Leave electric motors to milk floats, wheelchairs and robot wars, they'll never catch on, there's plenty of oil in the ground and we can make it from sunflower seeds anyway, I'm still waiting for my climate to get warmer too :shrug:

yeah, do the bottom wishbone ball joints, and the rear mounts aren't usually a problem (they can break up if old enough) but they do sag and it's not very difficult or exensive to replace all the bits. worth noting that the rear top spring plates often rust really badly, may be worth replacing them.

yes , but it's tricky, there is a good guide somewhere on club GTI, but basically the little allen headed bolts next to each take off from the top of the metering head adjust the flow to each injector, but you may have to repeat the test several times to balance them all up, there is also another bolt on the side that can be shimmed underneath to alter the overall pressure, presumably if you're not getting enough delivery or pressure is just too low. Never fiddled with this myself as from the factory they should be calibrated right, but if it's been messed with before you then all bets are off!

ideally a new membrane, but if you can stick a panel of plastic over the tear with something like the VAG mastic that will stick to polythene, that should be enough.

yes, I'll find the link for you... ... ta da! injector flow testing

slimier? :) they are different thread fittings to the fuel lines.

I know the problem, stil lhaven't found the right stuff myself. Whatever you do though make sure the small drain holes pressed into the bottom edge of the inner door skin opening are just above the sealant line when you affix the membrane, otherwise water will get trapped in the bottom of the membrane.

I'm thinking thermo-timeswitch, on the side of the head. should supply power to the cold start valve for the following amount of time: thermotimeswitch-on-time.jpg[/attachment:3ovnxny6]

pm'd ANT, but for the benefit of others: The wiring to the WUR is 13.5V with engine started cold and 0.024 ohms on the 2K scale on my multimeter across the WUR pins so that's 24 ohms? edit: yep, must be, spec from manual is 20-26 ohms

rears can be adjusted/tightened up a bit if too loose, not too much though, the washer needs to be free to move under slight pressure or the bearing will burn out if too tight, but if they are groaning they are shot.

whole track rods come with the outer ball joint (TRE), the inner joint is part of the whole rod and screws directly into the end of the rack, boots and rods from somewhere like AVS are fine, but the rods tend to rust up pretty quick compared to genuine VW ones and I don't think they'll last as long as originals. you pays your money...

a rear wheel can be spun off the ground and bearing noise can be heard, or taken apart and you can see the pitting on races and rollers, not on the fronts though, only when the hub is off the car can you spin it and hear the roar!

heater matrix supply and return hoses! the recall on the 16v added the two bypass valves, a new hose needs to be cut if you want to retain these, but there's no need if you buy a new genuine VW matrix as the are redesigned. It's possible one of the 16v matrix hoses is no longer available though IIRC, try GSF etc, ot amke up the right hoses from an elbow reducer and straight lengths of silicon hose from samco or SFS or similar.

wheel bearings?

no, don't think it makes any difference at all, still I smoothed mine, especially where the two pieces join and create steps, and I flattened the screw heads down and waisted the butterfly supports, from head flowing information posted up on club GTI, I don't think the 16v throttle is a restriction in the inlet system anyway, but it can't do any harm as long as you don't take tons of material off around the butterflys - you might make the throttle response very snappy ON/OFF then. throttle_body_800img.jpg[/attachment:299y8j2x]

remove the entire dash shell for clearance :nuts:

get as big a tank and motor as possible, compressors are nearly always under-bought, some tools like polishers and sand blasting guns use loads of air and if you ever do any paint spraying a cheapo 1-2hp won't do. Biggest motor you can run on 240V supply is 3hp belt drive is way quieter than the cheap direct drive units 50L tank will run out quick, 100L or more is advisable, but that does get rather large I have a sealey 100L 3hp belt drive that is very quiet will deliver 10-12 CFM so will power about anything and will run off a normal 13 amp socket. Expect to pay around 200 quid for second hand and up to 600 new. very cheap chinese made (or using some cheap components) compressors may end up being a false economy (little chance of getting spares) and limited in what you can do with them. Check the air requirement of any tools you might want to use, the sealey catalogue and PDF manuals (on justoffbase website) are very handy for this.

basic storm info here Mystic blue with black leather seems to be the most desirable colour, but the beige leather on the green does look nice IMO It's worth what someone's prepared to pay, and with only 500 storms ever registered and them being a 'final' edition they will always command a premium over a non-storm VR6 with leather.