davidwort

I'd agree with the above pretty much, although not my toal personal taste, but as 'most desired' in general. Dark colours in general, it's what most people want in a car like this and more timeless than a bright colour. Reds tend to fade so don't often look great, so tends to put people off, and yellow or white are never very popular (well as popular anyway), light greeny/bluey metallics can look a bit girly :lol: Green is never a popular colour either for cars in general, it's unlucky :) ask a second hand car salesman :lol:

same kit as you'd fit to the 256mm 16v brake AFAIK all you're doing is fitting slightly wider front disks/carriers, the 280 front calipers are basically the same as the 16v ones

put your car details in your sig or at least in your post :nono:

I think (3) pretty much answers you question, if it's pressurising the coolant system from a headgasket leak/crack in head then you'll lose coolant pretty quick. Red/purple VW coolant additive (antifreeze) is pretty easy to trace, it gives nice clear coloured crystals where it dries so if you can see where the coolant is coming from, which you say is header tank, and there's nothing wrong with the tank and cap, then I'd say it's doing it's job and acting as a pressure relief to the system. It's worth checking out the cheaper components before taking the head off though, so having the water pump out might be a good idea, does sound like a head or head gasket problem though :(

blimey, anything really :) a lot of the MOT is visual, check brake pipes for corrosion, steering and CV boots and ball joints and track rod ends for splits, dampers for leaks and all your lights, fogs aren't actually in the MOT AFAIK but main bean is now as well as dip, ropey dip beam patterns are a common corrado fail as the reflectors tarnish with age. screen chips? tread depth and any excessive oil/coolant leaks perished wiper blades rear wheel bearings have a small amount of play, that's OK, but not excessive

a lot of heating and cooling and salt spray up there on the front of the starter to sieze them up I guess, couldn't remember how difficult they were to remove, glad you got it done anyway.

well it's def not a flywheel pos sensor KR doesn't have one without looking at mine (it's at home) there are several single wires near the distributor oil temp sensor on the back of head 3 water temp sensors (identical) around the head water outlet flange none of these will stop it starting/firing

pre or post 1992? (facelift) lenses are glued on at factory

I think the blue and white is just an unused cable in the loom, intended to run as the signal feed from a variable pressure sensor to an oil pressure gauge. (that's on a KR loom) you should find the other end unattached behind the fusebox/dash somewhere

it appears the Corrado one is Corrado specific (027 133 373K) golfs have 3 codes 027 133 373 D, F and Q the early part 'D' is the early single take off pipe one (up to 1988) and the others (89-92) are round but similar fitment to the Corrado.

they all swap about, KR may be marginally better than a 9A as standard (minor water channel changes around the inlets), ABF has slightly revised valvegear and is generally considered the best 16v head (it was the last revision from VW after all) Ported and flowed they're all much the same.

they are shiny :)

no, KR inlet and KR/9A exhaust cam, 2L bottom end and a flowed head, you'll get around 170bhp and very good torque, 42mm inlet manifold for max torque, only use a 50mm inlet with higher lift cams, no point with KR cams. Rolling road tweak to ignition and fuelling (hour or so) and it'll be fully set up.

they should be just small screws and shouldn't be that tight, but yes, don't chew up the heads on those.

I have FEBI track rods, they are different to VW ones that were on the car (only one flat to get a spanner on the inner joint) also febi rear engine mount, again slightly different to VW one Febi bushes (especially rear axle) are known to not last as long as OEM (supercharged should vouch for this one) Febi may well supply VW with some parts, but there's been all sorts of discussions about how some of these suppliers actually make different quality parts especially for VW, bearings being a prime example, I believe some brands actually use a different factory and different quality control for VW supply, so brand name isn't always a guide either. Of course some parts are clearly VW quality but without the VW logo mounlded into them, my Denso Marsden radiator is UK made and bought from VW (identical to original 20yr old one) and I'm sure could be sourced from elsewhere if you have the right contacts in the trade.

trying to remember :scratch: think there's 2 or three phillips screws holding it into the bracket that juts out from the side of the motor body can't remember how easy they are to get onto though starter.jpg[/attachment:209pz0ca]

FEBI isn't OEM the parts are generally good quality but may not be as good as the original VW themselves change suppliers for parts and even the same supplier may provide different quality parts to VW and the pattern market, only way to be totally sure is pay VW prices. I haven't had any bad experiences with FEBI bits though unlike some of the pattern stuff you can buy.

look at the torque plot at the top, the green line is KR cams :) In fact look at the other plots too, the aftermarket cams all shift the torque curve up the rev range, which is how they produce the extra peak power best way to get good low end torque is a 9A inlet cam :)

first time I tried to remove one of these on a Passat it took me half an hour of hacking at the plastic enclosure, felt majorly stupid when I found the plastic tab, lift tab twist and it just drops out in 2 secs :epicfail:

I don't know the exact specs but for emissions the ABF had higher lift but shorter duration cams than the KR The result is very similar characteristics for each pair against each other I've also been wondering about a mix of ABF/KR cams, but I'm loathed to mess about on mine now as I know from 4 or 5 rolling road sessions that the KR pair give very good torque (and no real power issue, nice smooth graph to near 6,500) and without upping the 7,200 rev limit there's not much to be gained for me If it was a stripped out 2 door mk1 or 2 then sod the torque and go for peak power :D If you had mappable fuelling and ignition then you might squeeze more mid range grunt and top end power using higher lift cams, but for all that time/money/hassle I think I'd go full on ABF turbo :grin:

make sure which ever one you get has the right take off underneath for the overrun cut off valve (IIRC) I've got a sneaky feeling the golf 16v had two types of pipe (early and late?) and one doesn't fit the corrado.

pretty sure I just had 19" blades on both sides with my original arms??

top mounts for pre 92 cars use the 88-92 passat type all-in-one bearing and rubber mount, then the spring top plate and spring match. Later cars use the separate bearing and mount at the top with a different spring plate and spring, the springs and top plates did change again in the post 92 production run so you need matching springs and top plates with protective bellows and nut/bush on the top of the spring plate. Either complete setup is fine on any age of car. earlyC.jpg[/attachment:1wvm1ucd] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdflateC.jpg[/attachment:1wvm1ucd]

To be fair I think all those engines had at least a ported and polished head, I don't know any of the exact specs but you'll only get the best from any set of high lift cams with good headwork, having said that the 16v head is not nearly as restrictive as the 8v (both in standard form)

the motor 'parks' in a certain position for open/tilted/closed, so the roof needs to be in the matching position.