davidwort

what you need is the polo column with separate UJ (as the corrado UJ is needed instead), late polos use an integrated UJ you are looking for polos up to chassis no. 6N-V-300 000 (up to around 1995), after this chassis no. columns will have the integrated UJ which cannot be used on the Corrado. you need this type: 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfpolo_column1.jpg[/attachment:3tt1pwiy] NOT this type: polo_column2.jpg[/attachment:3tt1pwiy]

88-92 passat 16v alternator is the same, golf mk2 16v ones are all 65amp and later VW's use different alternators. 8v alternators have a different casing/mounting although the internals are the same.

the full late KR and 9A setup requires a different PAS pump, waterpump pulley, outer crank pulley and new length belts. welding up the idler pulley isn't a great idea as the waterpump and alternator belts on an early KR setup will run at very slightly different speeds as belts and pulleys wear, this will then increase wear on the parts. It might be possible to run the KR PAS pump directly and only from the KR outer crank pulley, for some reason the 9a used a pulley and pas pump pulley that sticks out further??? - but I'd like to compare the 9A and KR pulley sizes first as it could make a difference if the KR ones are smaller as the belt would turn very tightly if only driving the PAS pump. So you may be able to get away with just a 9A waterpump pulley. You might also want to look at a ribbed belt setup as on the mk3 16v, but that uses a different alternator, you may be able to get a ribbed belt pulley for the bosch type alternator, not sure. Are you sure you can't get hold of the early KR waterpump idler pulley, I bought a new one from VolksApart once, was less than half the price VW quoted.

it shouldn't do that, must be a vacuum leak in the metering head sucking in the carb cleaner, the mixture screw on the 2L should actually have a tamper cap on the top of it and be sealed IIRC.

the later VW style plastic ribbed tubing with the slit all the way down one side is pretty good, I've used a lot of second hand bits to tidy up and protect bits of my early 16v wiring.

shame it doesn't cover me losing things :) broke a socket extension piece by totally abusing it but they swapped it no quibble, pretty good value really.

don't think so, but a 3 door is something like 60KG lighter and probably a stiffer shell.

eh? wouldn't the big pads of the ATE 288's hang over the sides of a 280 disc???

there really is no need if you have a genuine 16v rad, it's small and mighty :) it's construction gives it as big a surface area for cooling as a radiator twice it's size and speaking from experience it's more than enough to keep a modified 16v cool.

worth dropping tempest a pm, he's a) very good at german :) and b) has a left hooker G60, will probably know for sure if a lense swap is all you need to do.

no they're clear IIRC. how about asking a VW dealer if they can order you a pair of LHD lenses? otherwise, what about german e-bay?

forum wiki: http://wiki.the-corrado.net/02a_manual_ ... s_etc.html

yep all the same as G60/corrado VR6 brakes, as long as you are sure you got early mk3 280's and not the later ATE 288's.

car has a lift pump in the tank and a main pump underneath, usually you get a loud noise from your main under car pump if the lift pump fails as it's getting no help :) can get at lift pump by lifting rear seat and going in through the hatch in the floor, then twist and remove fuel sender/float from top of tank. Even Vince at Stealth hates the 2L 16v system as it's so hard to diagnose, but from previous owners who've had idle and emissions issues it seems that a lambda is the no.1 problem closely followed by metering heads that for one reason or another aren't operating right. I'd imagine much of the testing procedure for plain K-jet is still valid though, so you could do fuel delivery rate tests by pulling the injectors and spraying into bottles, which will allow you to check the spray patterns too. You need proper K-jet unions to connect a fuel pressure gauge to the system (which aren't cheap) but it may be a good idea to get a garage to check these are within spec, which is slightly different to plain k-jet IIRC. If you can find a friendly 2L 16v owner, then it would be worth swapping over things like water/air temp sensors to rule them out too. Does it run OK at idle with the plugs removed from the metering head? IIRC the ECU will ignore the temp and lambda readings and run on 'average/base' settings with these disconnected (2 or 3 plugs?)

uh, oh... seems to be a common mistake when people work on 2L 16v cars, my betting is there's another problem that attempting to tweak the metering head was trying to cover up, possibly a dodgy or non VAG lambda or perhaps more seriously a fuel supply problem, maybe a worn/damaged metering head. It does seem that garages tend to think 'Ah, K-jet - lets adjust the mixture on the metering head', but KE-jet on the 2L shouldn't be messed with like this, unfortunately the lack of fault diagnosis on the KE jet system makes it hard for someone without the full VAG service manuals to diagnose properly. You really neeed a specialist who can check all the fuel components, pressures etc. but you can do a lot by checking al lof the basics, operation of coil, plugs, leads, distributor, vacuum lines, air intake boots not split etc to save them time.

firstly, don't touch the metering head, it's factory calibrated, the differential pressure regulator on the side (controlled by ECU) should control the mixture. and secondly, use a sensible thread title please.

even in the coldest temps (-10) my valver still reaches over 100 on the oil (104/106 seems normal fully warmed up), perfectly normal and I've checked the accuracy with an IR thermometer, the oil temp (MFA) gauge is pretty much bang on, 16v engines run 10-15 degrees warmer than the 8v VW engines. If you are worried, then pull a spark plug or two out, you'll soon see in the condition of plugs if the engine is running too lean and the head is getting hot, if both water and oil temps seem to rise a bit too high at idle then you may have a defective fan, fan switch or radiator. This may result in one fan speed not working or only part of the radiator flowing coolant. It's normal to see a bit of a rise on the gauges when coming to a standstill though as the airflow around the engine cools the car a lot when you are moving over 30mph, providing the radiator and fan are operating OK then things should level out after idling for a minute or two.

nope, all 4 pots are mk2 golf style, only 5 stud VR is plus axle. Late cars got the same facelift and wider wings to allow the 205 tyres of the VR, but all the 4 pots got the same body panels from then on too as it was obviously cheaper to make one body style than two.

yep, complete wishbones, golf mk3 GTI/VR and Corrado VR: 1H0 407 151(RHS) and 1H0 407 151A(LHS)

no such thing as wide track 16v (Corrado), unless you mean mk3 golf 16v which like the mk3 8v and VR6 are all widetrack. Agree about the non VW bits though, corrosion seems to be a real problem, whereas I'm still using 20yr old original VW ones on my 16v which have just had new bushes pressed in, they've got surface rust but they're solid as, simply got a couple of coats of hammerite and I reckon they'll last years yet. I reckon it's a good idea whatever you fit to spray them with VW's hard body protection wax, same goes for all the subframe area keeps the salt spray off the paint altogether.

yeah, I remember that, but so many people have tried the basic k-jet injectors (like the 8v GTI ones without the hats) and they've worked Ok, that I'm sure that was down to air leaks from poorly mounted fuel lines and dodgy main seals rather than anything to do with spray pattern. K-jet injectors can have pretty crap spray patterns and cars will run OK, it's possible one or more were really badly faulty from new but it seems unlikely. Those hats are actually described by VW as heat shields and it makes sense on a 16v.

only reason I can see there being problems without them is if the hot running 16v head affects the end of the injector without them in place, or if the main seal if knackered, then the top hat seal my help prevent air leaking in.

I'd consider a battery maintainer or trickle charge over pulling the plug on all the electrics regularly, this has been covered quite a bit recently. Not sure how good the solar chargers are that you can connect to the cig lighter socket?

top hats shouldn't need to come off to get new main seals on, injectors always come out of the manifold better when the engine is warm as the old main seals get quite hard with age. putting new main seals on can be a bit of a struggle but shouldn't be too bad, new ones should be much more pliable. I've heard people fitting top hats back on with a bit of loctite, I'd rather have them on there as they are actually heat shields for the end of the injector.

when you do the cam to cam chain it is a faff when tightening down the cam caps as everything moves a bit when the lobes hit the tappets, but as long as you keep the chain on the cam sprockets in the right position then that end will be OK. angled long nosed pliers are always handy for the tensionner if you dont have the right tool, you don't actually need to put massive torque on the tensionner. I've sometimes had a bit of trouble getting the exhaust cam belt pulley and crank lined up when doing the belt, seems that the valvegear can push the cams round a bit, enough to get the belt out a tooth, but you should be able to compensate by rotating the bottom end a small amount.