davidwort

small section of rubber tubing over the end of the screwdriver and screw head pushed into the end of it

this is my Corrado 1.816v (KR) WUR and piping, I think the part you circled is just capped off, sorry, didn't get a clear pic of that, the vac hose should be attached to the side though, nothing to the front. WURpipe.jpg[/attachment:2bk345rx]

Looking at the pics of the engine, that radiator looks like a 16v length, but aftermarket pattern radiator, as there's no protective strip on the top edge of the fins and I recognise the fin type from a pattern one I had. They're OK for this country, but not really big enough to be capable of cooling the 16v engine in extreme heat or engine load. I've said this before, but a longer 8v radiator is not better at cooling the engine than a standard OEM 16v one as the construction is different, a 16v aircon rad would be ideal, or similar from a seat toledo etc with aircon. I've got all the diameters and lengths for silicon hoses for the matrix etc somewhere, as I made up the 16v golf kit with extra hoses, you can buy reducing elbows etc. for the head to matrix inlet and so on.

nope, hoses connect on the other side

wiki

:) no, 100 quid for an update from garmin is frankly ridiculous, when you can buy a new 255W from amazon for the same :cuckoo: that's the main reason I'm going to try the openstreetmap maps and see how I go with that.

thought some of you guys on here would appreciate this, I think it's excellent! Garmin related, but here is my summary : I've found out from a chap I work with that there's an open-source project to map the UK http://wiki.openstreetmap.org/wiki/Main_Page It's created from lots of contributors around the UK and provides mapping to footpath level with contours and points of interest. As well as being able to join and contribute yourself, the data is available in map file formats compatible with the Garmin sat navs we have, all you need to do is download a file and using the USB connection add it to your satnav GARMIN folder You can then switch to that mapping system instead of the built in one at any time. http://sites.google.com/site/talkytoasteruk/ukmaps you need file: GB Map (Without Contours) - Routable Install to satnav info: http://voyager8.blogspot.com/2009/08/ad ... -nuvi.html I've done it on mine and it works great, if you switch the satnav to pedestrian mode you can set routes through woods and across redways and footpaths, Milton keynes is particularly well mapped by local people. It's bang up to date and the garmin nuvi 255 (in my case) has plenty of memory to add the new maps without needing even an SD memory card. Enjoy!

I'm surprised the last pic has belt clearance of the waterpump body and enough adjustment on the alternator, must be able to do it though, there's the proof! Serpentine belts (in theory) run quieter, but despite the fact that most have auto tensionners now they seem to be less reliable than v belts (in my experience... 3 belts, 1 tensionner and 3 pulley bearings on my mk4 grrr!).

If you do decide to go with a non VW item, then at least take your old one in to a trade desk and compare the two, a lot of the pattern ones are very cheaply made and not the correct design for the 16v, pay special attential to the cross tubes you can see through the fins and the overall contruction quality.

I'm really glad I took the time to build my own (IRO 15-20 quid), although I've now gone to Phillips Extreme 55/60W bulbs from the 100/80's I originally used, the loom has been totally reliable for nearly 10 years and there's no voltage drop compared to the full VW wiring. Do it yourself, take the time to carefully seal and protect every part from the elements and you'll be pleased with the result regardless of which bulbs you fit, standard or uprated. I don't drive much on full beam, but for piece of mind for longevity of the reflectors it's best to stick to standard wattage but higher output, as I think the plastic reflectors would deteriorate far quicker on the heat from 80W dip all the time than a 55W standard or Phillps Extreme etc type bulb. Whatever you do, protect the relays, I've seen far too many tie-wrapped behind the front grille and headlights, soaking up the salt spray :nono:

yes, you need a trade account AFAIK, because they are efectively competing with other motor factors to supply the non-franchised garages. Happily I have access to a TPS account from my dad's work, but it may be possible to blag the trade discount from them directly, Supercharged? edit: apparently not: viewtopic.php?f=23&t=89402&start=15#p1036722

027121031 is the waterpump pulley for non PAS golf 16v's or 8v golfs and passats with aircon up to 1993 (when 8v engines went to serpentine pulleys) I personally don't like the idea of running 2 belts on the waterpump that both drive, as pulley and belt wear will mean they drive at slightly different speeds which should cause some belt slippage. Far better to get the pulleys from a 2L 16v or late KR, that delete the second waterpump pulley altogether. another option may be a short belt to drive the PAS pump directly and only but using the KR pulleys and PAS pump and weld up the idler pulley and delete the outer waterpump drive pulley. That would leave a setup similar to the 9A but only having to weld the idler pulley and buy a new short PAS belt. OR get a compete set of ABF mk3 16v pulleys and alternator and go to a serpentine belt.

that's very good, 50 quid plus vat for a 16v dizzy, 2 year warranty oil price seems very good too, especially for 20 litres

well, yes and no, you have a mk3 cover but that's because after a certain engine number (in the diagram) the 9a engine moved over to the mk3 16v style cam cover, you have a rubbish VW parts man, that's all :)

only one way to find out...... FIGHT! FWIW, I have a halfords one that seems very well made, nearer the ten quid mark, it's pretty important to have a precisely machined tool for that job, can you take a sample of said union in to check on each tool, see how well they fit. If it's for occasional use then cheapo might well do fine, but I'm definitely in the camp of 'buy the best quality tools you can afford' had a few odds and ends fail or contribute to my poor mechanical skills in making jobs take ten times longer than they should :|

oooooh, that's different, prap's you have a mk3 style cam cover or something? edit: here you go: 16v-cam-cover-gasket.jpg[/attachment:1di61ow2] as I thought, 051 part is mk3 16v golf style

viewtopic.php?f=23&t=88593&p=1024545&hilit=steering+rack#p1024545 rack is not a quick job as subframe has to come down, which means supporting engine, couple of hours work even on a 2 post workshop ramp, column can be done at same time or separately and is a fairly easy DIY job although drilling out the original shear bolts to the dash is a pain.

talc, silicon spray. if it continues to be a problem, then water may have got into the drive cables and the whole mechanism will need to be replaced.

I'm not a fan of waxoil either, there's one big problem with it, you can't easily see where corrosion reoccurs, and if you have already put underbody sealant over repaired areas what's the point in spraying waxoil over the top of it? VW don't. :shrug: It also collects grit and crap as it's not smooth. I've used a can of the aerosol spray version and it made me feel a bit better squirting it over rust patches under the car one summer , but it made little difference as I hadn't removed any damaged underseal and treated rust underneath, it's not even very good at filling in holes as it doesn't build very well.

My latest method is grinding out the rust, warming the panel, acid etch priming the bare metal and then paining with VW rubberised underbody sealant which can then be painted over, finally some VAG cavity wax sprayed over the top, we'll see how that goes. Been out very little in the C in the wet over this winter and kept it in the garage most of the time, I'd imagine that should help a lot.

are you sure the outer splined end of the driveshaft bolted into the hub is in good condition, likewise the gooves inside the hub, sounds like something is wron or badly fitting. IIRC some of the VR6 hubs have a differnt kind of axle end which requires gluing into the hub?

moisture seems to get into steel, and if you repair a problem too quickly without heating the bare metal you may actually be locking moisture under the new paint, your best bet is to do these repairs in the summer in warm dry air, failing that, at least a heated garage. Any repair outside in moist air and cold temps is going to cause trouble whatever rust removal/treatment you try.

weak springs? as you've already tried, it's usually a worn throttle cable, you could try washing all the spring mech down with petrol or WD40, gets a lot of gritty oily crud in there over the years, the springs need to be strong enough to drag the throttle cable that last little bit and they all seem pretty weak as they come close to pressing the microswitch.

check out Club GTI 16v forum, 'Toyotec' has a blown ABF on MS. http://www.clubgti.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=136

I'd imagine the idle air bleed screw on the side of the throttle body was screwed right in, another indication of air leaks elsewhere.