davidwort

there seem to be plenty of pattern ones about, the one I bought from Inters a couple of years back isn't VAG but perfectly good quality and fitment

chances are you'll be OK, shouldn't have a cat to worry about on a '91 16v anyway If you'd blown seals out because of too high pressure then you'll be pissing it out everywhere, you'll soon see that, just take it steady and monitor the temperature and oil level to make sure it's doing nothing unusual. I did the same on my mower the other day, spat oil out of the exhaust like it had been sick :lol: after filling the street with blue smoke it eventually cleared and it's fine now... OK so not quite the same thing. you might want to take the boot off the throttle body and inspect and clean it up in there if needs be. I'd clean and re-oil the K&N if it's badly coated in oil, only because it will be a bit blocked if soaked in engine oil. edit: toad beat me to it :) great sig BTW :lol:

no, the camber is set by the suspension leg to hub bolts, the two big 18/19mm ones, not the ball joint to wishbone, that will alter the track. You can use camber correcting bolts from VW if you have problems obtaining enough negative camber with the standard setup.

NO NEED TO SHOUT! :) if you don't buy a pair of 280's from the forum, it's worth noting that early mk3 GTI's and VR6 golfs had 280's too, same parts as the G60 ones, just need the G60 disks instead of the 5 stud mk3 disks

and a new header tank, the FEBI one from AVS was absolute shyte, popped down to GSF and for 8 quid (with a CCGB discount) their pattern one (unnamed) equivalent to mk3 part no. 1H0 121 407A was spot on, so I never went for a genuine VW one in the end :lol: tank_2.jpg[/attachment:wjqeu0vc]

ropey siezed calipers? 256mm disks are fine, certainly not an MOT fail if working properly, they just fade sooner than 280's would

and some more: passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfbrakes_21.jpg[/attachment:18oavcgt] climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfbrakes_22.jpg[/attachment:18oavcgt] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfbrakes_23.jpg[/attachment:18oavcgt] brakes_24.jpg[/attachment:18oavcgt] and now onto the other side... just make sure you apply the brakes before driving off, need to push those pistons back to where they should be.

more of the same: Corrado conversion V2 (3).pdfbrakes_11.jpg[/attachment:pk90a26x] Book1.pdfbrakes_12.jpg[/attachment:pk90a26x] stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdfbrakes_13.jpg[/attachment:pk90a26x] ETKA Corrado.pdfbrakes_14.jpg[/attachment:pk90a26x] stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdfbrakes_15.jpg[/attachment:pk90a26x] Corrado92.pdfbrakes_16.jpg[/attachment:pk90a26x] passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfbrakes_18.jpg[/attachment:pk90a26x] climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfbrakes_17.jpg[/attachment:pk90a26x] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfbrakes_19.jpg[/attachment:pk90a26x] brakes_20.jpg[/attachment:pk90a26x]

was lovely and warm, pic from the garage as I contemplated doing some work: corrado_and_golf_may_09.jpg[/attachment:2pci6c27] Taken my time but my grotty old disks and wobbly bearings have gone, everything's had a cleanup so the pads move freely in the carriers etc. here's what I did: Book1.pdfbrakes_2.jpg[/attachment:2pci6c27] stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdfbrakes_3.jpg[/attachment:2pci6c27] ETKA Corrado.pdfbrakes_4.jpg[/attachment:2pci6c27] stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdfbrakes_5.jpg[/attachment:2pci6c27] Corrado92.pdfbrakes_6.jpg[/attachment:2pci6c27] passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfbrakes_7.jpg[/attachment:2pci6c27] climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfbrakes_8.jpg[/attachment:2pci6c27] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfbrakes_10.jpg[/attachment:2pci6c27]

isn't there a hook where the alternator adjuster bracket fises to the head?

you cheeky bugger! well I've done one side without Irwins, taking my time as I've been sunning myself a bit today too, in fact I must have put a bit of copper slip or something on the bolts as they came undone a treat, shock, horror. but funny you should say that because Amazon have a set of Irwins delivered for under a tenner at the moment, I was almost tempted. Anyway, took loads of pics on my new camera so you might be in for an incredibly dull and detailed how-to tomorrow :lol: Also, for your amusement, I fitted another header tank today, and guess what, non-VW, this one came from GSF :nuts: I was down there anyway so thought I'd have a look at thier Corrado/mk3 pattern tanks and surprisingly they looked pretty good, anyway for 8 quid (good old CCGB discount) it's fitted and looks the part, even watertight :lol:

today I will be mostly fitting my new rear disks, pads and bearings, new caliper wind back tool at the ready :)

an engine support beam is a must I'd have said. Probably easier to undo the ball joints and take the frame out with the wishbones still connected

It's pretty heavy, don't get pinned underneath it on your own, I did the axle bushes with the beam off the car and used a full hoist to get the car in the air to get at everything, I really don't envy you doing it on axle stands. I can see it's do-able that way though. I used brake hose clamps to stop the fluid all draining out, which will probably get frowned upon, but didn't do any harm.

you can tweak the fuelling and ignition a bit on the 1.8 but the 2L controls things with the ECU, lambda, pressure regulator etc so there's not much you can do apart from make sure all the sensors are working and the injectors and ignition components are in good nick. 2L have been re-mapped in the past.

the lenses and trim from an early car are different and wont fit with the later grille if your headlight trim (black plastic surround is OK) you could buy two new late model lenses and fit them to the early reflector/headlight units

FUCHS semi synthetic is v similar to Synta Silver and about a tenner less for 5L from GSF

Ooh no, it is FEBI marked and has a FEBI tag on it but it's a crap moulding and nastly see through plastic with no black marked levels, just a feint moulding mark like the early VW ones. I got it because it said FEBI, but it's a very inferior looking part and the cap area needed a load of trimming for the cap to fit right. It's does the job now, but looks a bit sh1t

ta muchly, I've done it a few times with crow bars and pliers into piston notches, just wanted an easy life this time LOL.

need to do the rear disk/pads/bearings this weekend for the MOT Is this brake caliper wind back tool worth getting? - will it do the job? halfrods jobby only 20 quid and I need to pick one up ASAP so mail order isn't an option

I've got it on and not leaking, at least I can see the fluid level now until I buy a proper one :|

bought a few bits from AVS so thought I's bung a new header tank in with the order as they are only 11 quid, boy, that was a mistake, after totally ignoring all advice on the forum :cuckoo: I then spent half an hour trimming miss-moulded plastic only to still have trouble gettting the bottom hose to seal properly. serves me totally right :lol: :epicfail:

front to back was 13cm IIRC on the valver, all the parts are the same as the VR. It would reduce to 10cm if I used a cut-and-shut passat relay plate/pivot.

apparently its just the relay 99 thats the bit that does it. I nearly won one on ebay, I lost and thought I'd see if mine did it :clap: that was me selling one on e-bay :lol: you should always ask on the Corrado forum first :nono: - only joking :) the early Corrado's had relay 19 which is a bog standard fixed delay intermittant, the cars after about 1992 had the '99' programmable one.

if you don't have a timing gun that you can set to a particular advance then you need to use the gearbox bell housing hole and the flywheel 6 deg BTDC mark, worth marking these with white paint before trying to set up.