davidwort

what have you done with the fuel system, do you have K-jet or KE-jet on it, has it been set up at all, are the cams properly timed together, aftermarket cams are notorious for being difficult to get spot on for power delivery. A 1.8 to your spec should be OK to drive at low revs but open up like crazy at 4,000 revs onwards.

there was a new rocco on the trailer thing at the start of the programme too?

ISV is the idle stabilisation valve, front right of head, elec connection to rear and in/out hose into breather system and back to inlet pipe. When they stick/go faulty they can sometimes be cleaned out with a liberal application of carb cleaner. The usual symptom is a idle speed too low or high that is sometimes ok, other times not. You might have a dodgy hall sender on the distributor, I'd have thought a garage could diagnose that though. You should really change the fuel filter under the back of the car if you don't know when it was last done. the 2L seems quite sensitive to dodgy sensors too, but you've already done the lambda although I have heard of issues with generic pattern ones rather than the genuine correct part. It's worth getting the system fuel pressure checked to make sure it's in the correct range and you could do an injector spray pattern test, and it's cheap to replace the rubber o rings on the injectors too, they can leak in air when old and hard. also make sure all the vacuum hoses around the inlet manifold are in good condition. Once you've tried everything else it could be the metering head, there's at least one tiny gauze filter inside them that can be cleaned out and checked, some cars have extra ones inside the fuel supply pipe union.

yep, cause there's no 4 stud 288mm disks available

288's the wire and the 'ATE' casting identify them you need the 280's which look basically the same as the 256's

there's only one engine to have in the 80, the 5cyl turbo :) the cars are built like tanks and never rot unless panels are replaced, but because they are built like tanks they need something powerful to haul them along unfortunately they don't have a great driving position, especially compared to something like the Corrado, in fact I don't think the steering wheel is even central to the driver's seat :| my favourite bit is the gear change, courtesy of the engine/gearbox layout, much nicer than transverse VW's they are a comfy cruiser though, if that's what you like.

careful...

I'm sure there's at least one firm advertising on e-bay that clean and test for around 20 quid an injector.

I reckon Haynes are getting confused with the 020 golf 2 16v gearbox and flywheel or something then :roll:

I've recited his name 3 times into the mirror...

the motor is attached to the centre lifting mechanism (or regulator) which is usually riveted to the centre of the door (two rivets) and at the motor mounting point (x3 rivets) the side guide rails are part of the door and don't need to be touched. you will need to drop the door a bit, unbolt the glass from the regulator through two small holes in the top middle of the inner door skin, tape the glass up so it doesn't drop and then remove the rivets holding the regulator and motor in. The dealer fit mechs don't have the lifting arms and are easier to remove, there is a bit of a knack to getting the proper regulators in and out of the door through the bottom opening, expect grazed knuckles, protective wax all over you and a fair bit of swearing, but they do go in, folded in the 'up' position and then opened out IIRC.

ETKA lists 3 types of bolt for the 4 cyl, auto, 2L 8v and one that does KR/9A and PG (G60) engine, so it should be the same as the G60 bentley info, but, I have two separate sources quoting 30Nm and 1/4 turn, not 60Nm, perhaps we need Yan to dig out the info from his UK VW workshop manuals

unbolt/drill out the rivets for the current window regualtor and motor, then source a second hand regulator with the geared (in the centre) lifting arms, rivet in the new regulator. If you have the dealer fit cheapo mechanisms at present, either connect the wiring directly to the +ve and -ve on the new motor, or source a full factory window wiring loom from another car together with the control box and wire it all in, that will give you the one touch open/close functions and will power down with the ignition off, unlike the permanently live dealer fit cheap kits.

hang on, we're not talking about the same thing here, Bentley is VR6 isn't it?, the Haynes is referrring to a 16v/4 cylinder VW crank and flywheel. I'm sure the VR6 uses different bolts. Bu99er me, I've just found two references to the KR/9A that state 30Nm and 1/4 of a turn, so that's different again, I think the Haynes misinformation I provided :? was for the 8v engines the 16v seems to be 30Nm and 2nd stage 90 degrees haynes_torque_settings_2.gif[/attachment:3b5x0mhk]

d'oh! :epicfail: yep, not clutch bolts :cuckoo: p28.jpg[/attachment:1gglwvst]

is it on here somewhere? this is for the passat (same gearbox and same 228mm clutch) p132.jpg[/attachment:1ybsaugy]

would be quite nice if it turned out to be a 5cyl 20v :)

I wonder if someone has fitted a whole passat inlet manifold then? I also thought the cruise control option affected the throttle body too, not sure exactly how though.

and being a toyota all you'll need to do is fill up the washer bottle occasionally over your next ten tears of driving :) a neighbour of mine has just got a blue one almost the same as yours chopping in their 10yr old civic saloon, they seem pleased as punch with it, wiser buy than a Ford or Vauxhall me thinks...

I think the corrado one should be 048 133 154 and with an 'F' suffix for the auto, perhaps yours had one fitted from a second hand source at some point? Your part number doesn't seem to exist either :scratch:

they are a straight swap, but the plastic cover over the steering column and ignition lock are different to accomodate the different hazard warning light, so you need the later trim bits. ^^ just a bit too slow :)

as long as you get plenty of airflow the 16v seems to cool quite well on the standard radiator and heat exchanger, on a short low speed circuit I can imagine it getting a lot hotter, but the ring has plenty of long fast stretches, I'd look at changing the water pump and radiator first if they're getting on a bit.

But the cut outs are part of the design of the bushing, the bush has an arrow and a specific orientation in the wishbone when fitting so it deforms in a specific way, the R32 is so much heavier than the Corrado there must be some drawback to using them?

makes sense as an old one is more likely to corrode into the disk if reused, but a tiny bit of copper slip on the thread is an idea if reusing top tip, only very gently screw them in, they can't come undone as the disk sits over them and it will save swearing next time you replace the disk some of the new retaining screws have a star drive centre rather than phillips head, which seems like a good idea too.

yep, that's basically it, just swap all the ancilliary bits over, the ABF is a good engine, but the block is 15mm higher so you might have downpipe clearance issues around the bulkhead, I think it clears the bonnet OK, see how much clearance you have on the 1.8 with the early bonnet. Worst case with the downpipe, I think I heard of someone modifying the rear engine mount slightly to sit the engine a little lower at the back. You can set the WUR quite accurately by checking the colour of the plugs, set the idle CO to about 2% and you want just very slight carbon deposits forming on the rim of the spark plug end, not the electrodes themselves, should be running nice and rich but not over the top then. move the WUR screw in small 1/8 turn increments, you'll soon feel a drop in power if you lean it too much and the plugs will blacken quickly if too rich. Stealth will then just tweak it for peak torque and hp on the rolling road and probably squeeze about another 5-10 bhp out of it, 1hr RR time should be all that's needed.