davidwort

my vag ones were only 21 quid each, wouldn't skimp on those as it's a relatively difficult job to change them again. View first unread post Corrado VR6 Engine Subframes

there's been a few posts recently on this, have a search. in general OEM bushes from VW are best, only the really high power turbo/supercharged VR's need the R32 bushes easiest to get complete wishbones with the bushes already in, but it's not massively difficult to press new bushes into an old wishbone, I did it with some huge sockets and nothing more than a big vice.

Full electronic fuel injection conversion plus the cost of throttle bodies and I can't see you doing it for less than a couple of grand. Plus, it's probably the last modification you'd make to a 16v when seeking the last bit of performance, which means building an engine capable of taking the power first, flowed head and aftermarket cams which could set you back another couple of grand. Don't forget 200bhp is achievable on the K-jet. Seems a bit pointless spending ££££ on a 16v when you could do a 225 1.8T conversion for less and probably get a reliable 250bhp plus lots of torque. Don't get me wrong, I'm not anti 16v, it's just it depends on what your starting point is and what you're hoping to achieve bhp per £.

how do you rate these David? Would you suggest getting the VW ones? They are massively cheaper than vw though. well they've done about 20K now and no issues, bit of surface rust after a few winters but the rubber's not coming unbonded from the metal or anything, handles fine. I think I would probably buy VW ones if I did it again though, but only because I never plan getting rid of the car and the VW ones are likely to last the best. If I was paying someone else to do the job then it would probably be a false economy due to the labour cost being a fair whack if it had to be done again because of the cheaper bits

good rear engine mount, track rods and filters etc from them, but the cap in the rear wheel bearing kits doesn't fit properly (both sides the same) and the febi header tank I had was binned this week, total crap.

do you have the heater matrix by-pass valves fitted Jim, if so I'd suggest removing them and linking the water hoses temporarily to see if the matrix is restrictive. It's easy enough to see if the by-pass valves are operating correctly by blowing through them, dry off the car obviously. The other possibility, and perhaps the worst, is that the headgasket is possibly starting to go. It's not a bad idea to change an old oil cooler but I don't think that would cause high water temps.

find someone who going to the Netherlands soon? I'm not taking the P155, there's a fair few C owners that pop over regularly for shows.

Or 3rd.... only way to drive a 16v is to red line it in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th... ...and 5th in Germany last autumn :D still have 133 recorded on the SAT NAV from then, speedo was showing 145 :lol: if only our roads were that smooth and empty :( I think I'd need a well fettled VR to prise me out of my valver. Anyone want to follow me in their VR, offer's there anytime, FI excluded :)

it's not tat bad really, ball joint needs to be swapped over, perhaps a good time to fit a new one, just make sure the bolt up through the rear bush frees off OK before stripping everything else out.

wishbone bush is starting to go, probably best to buy a complete new one including the bushes unless you have access to a press, will need a wheel alignment after doing this too.

a while since I had the engine and box out on mine but I'm sure you can lift the axle up away from the gbox flange, might have to turn the roadwheels a bit. worst comes to the worst, undo the balljoint/hub pinch bolt to swing the hub/leg away from the wishbone.

I've done it on my own by simply holding the wheel whilst turning the ratchet at the same time, you get plenty of leverage just holding the tyre with one hand. Or a broom handle through the wheel? Could always crack them off with the wheels on the ground, the bolts aren't torqued up mega tight. Just make sure you clean out the splines thoroughly to prevent the bit slipping.

it doesn't seem to make sense from a rotation of the axle beam point of view as one bolt would be twisted clockwise the other anti-clockwise on the bump up of the wheel/damper :scratch: Can't imagine it's that critical, but then why do the front hub ball joint and wishbone bolts go front to rear on both sides?

yep, sounds like spray hitting the aux belts.

I bought a second hand passat PAS hose from them years back and an aux belt pulley for my 16v, no problems for me.

Interesting, because I thought once the grease was gone, ingress of dirt could cause premature wear and possible seizing of the driveshaft. No, but a tester can fail a car on anything if they consider it to be dangerous, with a totally destroyed boot I'd think it would be fair to say the joint could be close to failure and potentially dangerous. The VAG ones are plastic, not rubber, and not prone to perishing and more resitant to sharp stones etc... they could well pay for themselves and save you money too in the long run.

I remember filing those things down on my old mk1, if your original keys get worn the tabs can stick up and prevent the barrel turning sometimes, cheapo fix, file them flat with the key in. I'm sure there's a few worn corrado keys about these days.

yep, but as with the 1.8 the bottom and top header tank hose, and both matrix hoses are either not included in the kit or don't fit, you'll need to make up the remainder from generic reducing elbows and straight lengths of hose which will add 80 quid or so to the cost.

I'd always understood the 2L 16v had a tamper cap on the metering head screw because they were calibrated at the factory and the ECU/differential pressure regulator carried out any necessary running adjustments from the lambda feedback. It might not know where it is if you've adjusted the metering head way off what the ECU is expecting as a base setting?

chunks taken out of the windscreen surround paint by screen fitters is particularly nasty as you don't see it rusting through underneth the plastic trim insert.

Green.

I'd take the CV joint down to GSF and see if they can match it to one in a parts bin, chances are it's not unique to that car.

you might have put the ECU into average settings mode where it ignores all inputs by disconnecting that sensor, that can somtimes help idling by excluding dodgy lambda readings from the inputs to the ECU, that may explain why the revs rise as the engine gets warmer, the ECU is not adjusting for temp. I thought you had to disconnect more than one ECU sensor to get it to operate like that, but I guess you may have another totally bust sensor already anyway.

I'd probably go for a VT mount, a road one will give a bit of vibration isolation but the engine won't move much at all, not like a VW or pattern one, it's the wide rocking motion from an OEM style one that does the 4 branches in. Best thing to do is measure the subframe to engine bracket distance and compare to a standard one, just to make sure it's not sitting too high or too low on the fixed mount. I'd imagine the front is sitting too low and the manifold is sticking up too high at the back as a result.

interesting to see that done, I guess most things can be repaired if you know how and have the tools and skill I'd have been worried it would affect the heat transfer from the bore or something wierd happeneing with the original metal and the new metal, but it sounds like the guy knows his stuff and it's safe to do.