davidwort

not sure which specific bit you are trying to remove, but when I stripped one tailgate to put the bits in another I'm sure those things just pulled out with a firm yank.

always good to see bits before you buy

next time you ring them tell them how crap their FEBI header tanks are :lol:

should all be straight swap, only VR boxes have a different bell housing, and once you go to the 02J boxes on the mk4's then most have larger drive flanges 110mm instead of the 02A 100mm IIRC A g60 may have the earlier shift tower, but that can all be swapped from the old G60 box (you may need the bottom bearing too which means draining the oil out) it's the cap underneath the box with two 13mm bolts, VW logo on it on the later ones, they changed from 15 to 16mm.

OK say you have a G60 with an AYL/AYK box Figures from ETKA: FD 9/17 1 34/9 3.78:1 2 36/17 or 40/19 2.12:1 3 40/28 1.43:1 4 35/34 1.03:1 5 36/43 0.84:1 passat CHA FD 9/17 1 34/9 3.78:1 2 36/17 2.12:1 3 34/25 1.36:1 4 33/36 0.92:1 5 33/46 0.72:1 looks like the diesel box is quite a bit longer legged in 3rd, 4th and 5th, but would be better than a short ratio 16v box given the lower rev range and better torque of the G60

depending on the type of crank pulley bolt, I thought it was oiled rather than 'thread-locked' ? there's a stretch and a reusable version IIRC

it will, but the gearing will be horrid for a G60, you'd be better off looking for a diesel box if you can't find a G60 one.

if you remove the pressure hose to the rack at the pump end fitting, you'll be left with another bolt/hex still attached to the pump, unscrew this and 3 pieces will come out, 2 part valve and a spring. These can get clogged with dirt (there's a tiny gauze filter on the end of one bit) and the drilling in the body of the pump can itself wear and get scored preventing the valve from moving freely. It's not necessarily your problem, but it is a common issue with those type of pumps.

are you sure the pressure relief valve in the pump is working properly? If not you should be getting whining noises all the time and not just when you steer, if that is the case then the pressure hose will leak as it's constantly being pressurised and when the steering is not being moved from left to right there's no flow of fluid and the hose is put under strain. The pump end of the pressure hose is just a compression fitting, not a banjo fitting, so no washers are used. Can't remember at the rack end but I think it's the same.

just a thought, a loose, corroded or missing earth strap from the corner of the head to the ignition coil can screw the temp reading on a 16v

yep the two oil pressure switches on a KR 1.8 and the two switches plus a third plugged drilling on a 9A 2L, handy if you want to run a separate VDO oil temperature gauge too as you can fit another temp sensor there.

back of the head just round from the dizzy!

there's a hex or flats on the inner track rod joint

I guess it depends on the pulley but I had one from a KR that had a cast notch like the bottom crank pulley, that sheared with a cam belt disaster, just saying it's probably not a separate key that's all, does the same locating job though.

there's no woodruff key as such, but the pulley itself has a notch cast into it, but yes they can shear, usually as a result of an engine snapping a cam belt from memory the marks on the cam gears align with the top surface of the head not at 9 and 3 o'clock actually, thinking about it again and looking at the photos I think marks level with the head is the same as 9 and 3 o'clock :) engine6_scirocco16vdotcom.jpg[/attachment:1hg2i1ab]

at least tailgates are one of the cheaper 2nd hand bits to source as they rarely get damaged in smashes, they don't seem to sell well on e-bay, although finding the right colour is the main problem.

rear sill nr arch looks nasty, more than surface rust there, that really needs welding, the other bits you really need to grind back to clean metal, acid etch prime and touch up with a spray can. with the tailgate, you can pull the outer seal out, then you've got better access to the rust at the edge of the glass, it just pushes back in.

it should really sit in the middle of the gauge and only rise slightly above when in traffic before the fan cuts in, once at the very top of the gauge with the LED flashing you'll be in danger of boiling over. A number of things could be wrong, fan, temp switch in radiator, relay pack for fan control, blocked radiator, running too lean and the head getting too hot, water pump/thermostat issue. It's worth investigating and trying to sort before something nasty like a head gasket blows.

they don't seem to line up well on most Corrados really, you can make things a little better by slackening the nuts on the main rear light units and you get a bit of movement on them, you should be able to get them about level with the tailgate ones with a combination of adjusting the tailgate too.

do you mean the passenger lock opens the others fine? If only the lock you were operating with a key works I'd say it was a vacuum leak, perhaps you have a dodgy switch/wiring on the drivers side handle or loom, possibly at the door hinge area where the loom flexes?

I don't think the stoppers will adjust the height of the boot, you need to slacken the two allen key bolts on the boot catch and try moving it slightly and re-tightening, ultimately the tailgate seal will limit how low you can get the tailgate to sit, obviously the rubber stoppers need to be screwed far enough in too.

definitely wasn't standard on golfs before 2001

There is an engine code PL which has lambda for running the cat and is basically a cat version of the KR 1.8 16v, I'd imagine that is essentially a 1.8 running on 2L type management/fuel system. Some tuners used to offer chip tuning for the 9A system, but I have no idea if anyone still offers it, you could try Stealth. But even Vince there seems to dislike the 9A system, perhaps he just doesn't know a lot about it, it can be a bugger to diagnose as there's little in the way of fault finding help from the ECU. I think PhilK on here converted a 9a to run on plain K-jet. can't be that difficult, KE jet on the 9A is based on K-jet anyway. I think your suspect areas are knock sensors, lambda probe and possible the temp sensors that feed the ECU. That's just from memory of other faulty 9A's I've heard of. I'd seriously look for a 2L bottom end and try to get it running right on standard cams first, lot of work but it would be better than dealing with so many unknowns at the same time.

pretty easy job on an 8v GTI, single cam, no 'stuff' in the way to get the cam cover off, just make sure you get the cambelt pulley off the old cam first! ideally need to find a proper tool or made up method for locking the pulley to undo the bolt. had a schrick cam in an 8v a long time ago and it peps up the engine a fair bit at the top end, really nice mod on a standard engine.

have you got the knock sensors running on nthe 1.8 block? I'd imagine if you are running the 9a system without them it will back the timing off massively as the ECU will think something is wrong and put it in limp home mode. I've never heard of 1.8 running on KE-jet 9a management, let alone with aftermarket cams, I doubt the lambda could cope with that at all. It really would be better to get it running on the 1.8 K-jet setup, you'd need a re-map as a minimum to run it on the 9A system.