davidwort

is your solid front mount holding the engine in the wrong position? I noticed my VT mount sat the engine differently from the standard one

In my experience the 16v MFA tends to underread at low speeds/stop start traffic but gets more accurate when more cruising is invloved, seems to be down to relying on inlet manifold vacuum readings to calculate MPG. Things against you with the 16v: low ratio gearbox torque isn't great at low revs K-jet/KE-jet injection is mechanical and no-where near as efficient as EFI the corrado is heavy for it's size slow engine to get to fully warmed up and warm up period can use a fair wedge of fuel on the K-jet system other things that don't help: tyres and tyre pressures dirty oil filters old K-jet injectors can perform badly on spray pattern wheel alignment ropey exhaust sytems crap old gearbox oil wrong spec plugs timing (both ignition and engine - they often get set up one tooth out on a cambelt change) vacuum leaks and dodgy ISV's few things to go on :)

for your budget I'd look for a Koni damper kit with lowering springs, you just won't get the quality of parts if you go for cheap coilovers, it'll end in tears, seen so many siezed/broken coilovers, they'll last a winter or two if you're lucky. Or you could keep an eye out for a second hand kit.

136/139 is what VW quoted for the KR engine, with transmission/tyre losses that usually equates to around 15-20% lower, it's not as bad as you think because I've seen plenty of VR's put down around 140bhp ATW, around 30bhp more than standard valvers on the same day. Just remember a rolling road is more useful for tuning purposes on the same vehicle than accurate car to car output comparisons, just too many variables to provide accurate numbers of use between vehicles.

expect to see around 110bhp at the wheels on a healthy valver (and about 125 torques), calculated crank hp will be all over the place, so don't believe the 50bhp transmission losses they come up with :) if the modified engine is still a 1.8 then with a flowed head, manifold and cams it should be puming out around 130/5 ATW.

sump off job I think.

I'd start with the relay that does the lights, sounds like it's not triggering

it's there now.

if you look the fan motor has 3 pins on the conector, live feed, earth and a resisted live feed (the slower speed) the fan switch in the radiator simply switches between off and the two circuits to the fan, so it's possible the motor is duff on speed 1 if you remove the temp switch from the radiator, heat over a gentle flame (low gas hob?) then when it clicks it will be switching to the first fan speed cicuit, just check the continuity with a multimeter or test light, if you heat it for a bit longer the second circuit should make then you know if the switch is duff or the motor don't blame me if you burn your fingers though brass sensors get hot if heated :)

varies slightly from switch to switch but the two speeds cut in around 95 and 103 degrees.

should be fine, Bally had Koni coilovers, slammed right down on his 1.8 16v and it rode really smoothly. You'll obviously need the right top plates, strut top bearings etc, not the 1.8 bits.

1024 is fine now, think that was an 'upgrade'

I've found over the years that the best way is to nip up very gently with a spanner, back off and then nip up very very gently again, this seems to help the grease squeeze out and them to settle in place, and then as Haynes says the washer should be able to move slightly with a gentle levering with a screwdriver. either way, don't overdo it and then simply check after a few miles and re-tighten if necessary. these bearings never hold the wheel tight and should have a small amount of play or the bearings will overheat, you wont feel the play with just the disk bolted up, but it will be evident once the wheel is back on.

virtually identical post to my recent rear disk change :) viewtopic.php?f=11&t=19344&start=15 those febi caps are crap, I used the old ones which are a perfect fit and tap in tightly without needing to be partially crushed :lol:

spot the offending guide: toms-vr-chains.jpg[/attachment:10g4w75v]

oil or water? water should sit in middle of the gauge, if it sits permanently at 3/4 when warmed up and dips a bit every now and then the first speed of the radiator fan may not be triggered by the temperature switch on the radiator, common fault. 16v's tend to sit about 100-108 oil temp, which is warmer than an 8v engine but fine.

there's no OEM tinted rear lights for the Corrado, the soft top is from the VW museum in Germany a design study one off, there's another similar, but different prototype soft top in the Karmann museum too, the pickup was a project that some apprentices at Karmann built.

bit OT, but a G60 will run on regular unleaded, but ECU will give more power on super.

no, but i'd change (with filter) it after a 100 miles or so and then again at a thousand before reverting to the normal 5-7000 intervals,

it's unusual but I guess there could be a gasket leak from a cylinder into a water gallery in the head/block do all the cheaper things first though, get that oil temp gauge working as that's a good reference for engine temp against your water do you have the heater matrix by-pass valves fitted, to check their operation (and for blockage in the matrix) you should get hot air in the car with the heater on and the right had (out) hose should be warm/hot as well as the input from the head with them off the car they are both one way valves that you should be able to blow through easily (in the direction of the arrow) and a small amount of air will escape via the small outlet (by-pass) is you waterpump old? did you fit a genuine thermostat? when running from cold a 16v takes about 10 minutes to get fully up to temp and I'd expect the thermostat to be fully open and the bottom hose of the rad get noticably warmer just before the water temp gauge hits mid way, then a few minutes after the stat opens, with the car idling, the first stage fan should kick in. just a few thoughts.

did you have the manifold off with the engine swap? could the gaskets be suspect what about the injector seals are they new? they get very hard with age and once disturbed may leak air

idle air bleed screw on throttle body clean and OK? leaks from gaskets? try spraying carb cleaner or something around all the inlet boots and manifold, are the rubber sections of the inlet split?

You'd sell it more easily without a doubt, but it's not going to make much difference to your bottom line I don't reckon, and a fair bit of work to get it all done right, plus new clutch and anything else that gets damaged in the swap. Difficult one. Do you know anyone who could diagnose the auto problem properly? Is it the box mechanically or something electrical that needs fixing?

excellent news, just hope mine does the same, it's down there now, did both rear disks and bearings at the weekend, fingers crossed...

The 2L (9A engine) KE-Jet ECU is quite different to the 1.8 KR one and can be re-mapped for ignition and fuelling to a certain extent, so I think that's the difference, the crystal on the 1.8 circuit board doesn't just set the rev limit either, it will stretch out the whole ignition map up to the new rev limit if changed, so re-mapping the 2L ECU would be far better. Only thing is, there's little point in changing the map without configuring it to the particular car on a rolling road, by fitting this you might well just overfuel and over advance the ignition.