davidwort

yeah, they won't take kindly to a 0/30, problem is a lot of the easily available (Halfords stock etc) fully synths are quite light for older design engines. VW hydraulic tappet design does seem to favour a 10/40.

I still don't get this, if a car is worth anything over a grand you're better off selling it privately, all the dealerships seem to be offering discounts regardless of whether you chop in a car or not :brickwall: 'and another thing', how can you say it's something people are doing because of the hard times they find themselves in, they're buying a new car FFS! I've never bought a new car in my life! apart from anything else, you loose more than a grand as soon as you drive off the forecourt and then probably another 2 or 3 in the first year :brickwall: :brickwall: :brickwall: :censored:

you should be able to pick up a wash wipe relay 19 or 99 from just about any VW from mk2 golfs up to 1997 golf, passats, SEAT ibizas, toledos, and 2000 polos, if you can find a nearby scrap yard. I doubt if VW hold these in stock at any branches, GSF/ECP might do for the more common relays.

me :lol: I've got a couple of spare sets of relays if you do have a bust one.

carefully pull out the fusebox cover plastic clips (black sqaure tops) x2, pull forward/down the fusebox cover/small underdash tray and look for relay 19 or 99. should click as intermittent switches on/off or once on when the first/second wiper speed is started.

Something like FUCHS semi-synthetic 10/40 (from GSF) is perfectly adequate and pretty cheap, unless you're turboing it or only change your oil every 20K. Fully synthetic won't do any harm as long as it's the right spec, pretty pointless if you have a basically standard car and do regular yearly 7-10K oil changes though.

some relays seem to get noisier with age, but they are just an electromagnetic switch, so they will click.

D3 VUB, I like that too, pretty funny.

some if not all of the models will also display other values the ECU and clocks recieve, for instance on a 16v by holding the MFA switch across when you turn on the ignition you can see RPM, instantaneous MPG and a few other values, I think the G60 shows boost too? Can't remember the exact sequence of holding down the MFA switch and releasing, will be somewhere on the site if you search...probably.

how about: I have a drill extension piece that was only a few quid, you could use one of those to get a drill bit onto the head going vertically down through the hole in the slam panel, a bit of tape around the extension shaft would protect the paint around the hole in the slam panel. drill the top off the bugger then, just be carefull as you get close to finishing it off.

so what if you send it as 'gift' ?

lots of lengthy soaking in WD40 and a very sharp correctly sized new phillips screwdriver with lots of pressure to stop slipping if you've already rounded the head then I'm out of ideas :(

I'm pretty sure it is that, should have a bent over tab that screws to the slam panel with a self tapper, it allows access to change the headlight bulb and adjuster I think.

well, I think so, have you got the PN off it?

behind the off side headlight, in front of the air box

actually I do sort of get his point, I always think it's a 5 minute job, but after I struggle with the filter, get oil and crap all up the sides of my arms, drip oil all down the front of the block and over the PAS hoses then always manage to get some on the drive and then dribble it all down the sides of the can when I'm draining the old stuff from a tray into the bottle etc, etc... :bad-words: I just look at it as I've saved a couple of quid I can spend elsewhere on it :)

that's because they fill it with old chip fat and wipe your old filter down with an oily rag :lol:

a Corrado enthusiast who doesn't want to get their hands dirty, what's the world coming to, :shrug: It wouldn't be a monday morning at work if I wasn't sat at my desk picking the oil and crap out from under my fingernails :lol:

highly unlikely you'll bend anything from turning it over by hand unless you're the Hulk or somthing :) I've seen so many 16v's wrongly set up and running a tooth or two out it's also v unlikely the valves would hit the pistons running like that, you need to get them way out. Like above, set it up right, run it and see, perhaps do a compression test if you think it's down on power.

I wouldn't say so, just 'cause it got hot for a few minutes shouldn't be a problem. It's not like the engine was thrashed for hours on that oil.

just an observation, when we changed a water hose on wendy's VR we noticed the overspill/pressure relief outlet cover (black plastic arch) fouled the mk4 tank cap, you could see where the cap had been clamped down on the edge of it. You could lift the flap slightly to avoid this, but it looked a bit dodgy, like you could screw the cap down with it trapped and not get it screwed on all the way, probably not a problem with the 'click-shut' cap on the mk4 tank, but worth looking for.

are they any good? might have aquired a free system build from them :D http://www.motor-mech.co.uk/longlife_ex ... hausts.htm

yep, lots of VW bits on Porkers, 911's used to have the same side repeaters as Corrados :) the 924 was designed as an audi, and had the audi 5 cylinder lump in it

yep, find a smooth car park and drive slowly around on full lock, may well go 'clack...clack'

oh, that looks a bit dodgy to me, especially if you're boring it out further, I'd show the actual bottom end to an engine builder if you can, I wouldn't want to invest a lot in a block that's suspect :?