davidwort

fit the stat/seal and elbow with the pump off the car, it's a PITA to do it upside down on the car, check the condition of the plastic elbow(inlet) carefully, they can get damaged especially when old and brittle

exactly the same as your mk2, providing your Corrado is the 16v in your sig

what you need, is to set a multimeter to amps (usually a different connection for at least one probe, not all multimeters will offer this) then connect it 'in-line' between the +ve lead for the battery and the +ve terminal on the battery. IIRC mine was using about 0.01 Amps which adds up when you work out the amp/hours over several weeks. First time around I replaced a battery, thinking it was getting old and tired, but looking into it a bit more (and a new flat battery later!) I worked out a couple of weeks was quite a drain for any battery, I have a hefty 70 odd amp/hour battery now seems to last a bit longer than the old ones, I tend to put it on trickle charge if it has more than a week without running though or the starter struggles (I do have a newish high compression engine though.)

short shifts will generally make the cable change much more notchy, you can buy complete short shift gear lever units(at huge expense) , or cut and re-weld the pivot plate of a standard VW one, I found the standard passat one will make about 25% reduction in throw, but you do need to cut and re-weld the bottom ball joint as it's a bit too low for the corrado system, 10 minutes of welding though, as long as you make a carefully measured template I'm sure you could find someone to knock that up for you for a beer. I'm thinking of making a few up this spring actually, I know a few others that have done it successfully too.

If the stereo/alarm/immobiliser just draw a fraction of an Amp when off, a couple of weeks is enough to drain a standard battery, either fit a high Amp/hour one , e.g. diesel battery, or isolate the things that draw current completely. Does your alarm have a key to kill it completely? A digital multimeter that can measure current can be placed in-line on the battery, just don't operate the central locking or turn the ignition on, that will pop the meter's internal fuse. If your car isn't run much then your battery will degrade quicker than a daily driver too.

not being funny, but if you're asking those questions it's probably better if you don't attempt it. It's a full top end strip down plus replacement of any worn guides and valves and then the careful porting, polishing and gasflowing of all 16 inlets and outlets plus combustion chamber and valve seats. If you do a DIY job without the right knowledge you could end up with headwork that actually makes matters worse especially on the inlet ports. TBH £400 quid for all that work is very good, I had mine done the best part of 10 years ago and that was £600.

The filter should be the same part as a late mk2 16v golf post 1990, earlier 16v filters are too small the rear air feed to the airbox is warm air from around the exhasut manifold, it helps the engine on cold days on warm up. removing the snorkel will make the engine louder (induction noise) and on a standard car will not really make any difference except allow cold air in when it should only be drawing warm air from the back feed as the flap shuts off the cold air as well as opening up the warm air feed. I have noticed at very high revs with a KR (1.8 16v) inlet cam on a 2L engine, removing the snorkel does help the top end power a little, but you're only talking from 6000-7000rpm.

This really does show how desperate the motor trade is getting, service departments of franchised dealers have been the poor relative to the sales side for years, now they can't sell any cars they're trying quite hard to entice service work in. My work car park was flyered by the local dealer last month.

yep. or if GSF are not Beru then here: http://www.vwspares.co.uk/corrado_electrical.php

Why, the Corrado forum of course :grin: I've had new engines sieze, and repeating leaks and faults, but for some reason it just keeps you hooked, I've noticed an increasing number of people buying a second or even more of them, it's definitely a bug.

I don't reckon the thicker leads will make any difference, apart from to your wallet, and they may well wear out quicker because they won't fit the cable guides and clips and will probably end up rubbing on things. They might look nicer though :) The beru/VW/GSF ones pull apart to slide the sensor on. I swear by the GSF ones which are identical to OEM as far as I could tell, my last set (I assume they use the same mnfr) has lasted over 10 years and only the coil lead went a bit out of range on resistance after a few years and I swapped that with a generic lead as it has standard HT end plugs.

yeah, the voltage drop is horrendous, I've tried several Corrados and they've all come out at about 11.5 volts at the connection to the headlight, and I think that was with the engine running! Battery is IRO 13.5V, run a relayed feed with a new dedicated earth straight back to the battery and you lose virtually nothing.

no idea but very late ones (after chassis no. 50-P-000001) are the same as a passat (357862153H) oddly, although the earlier part number is a 357 number (passat) it doesn't come up as fitted to passats??? - that no. is 357862153 (no suffix) worth getting a passat one and trying it I reckon, they're usually pretty reliable units.

like I said before, if you can live without heating, disconnect the hoses to and from the matrix in the engine bay at the bulkhead and connect them together with a bit of copper pipe and some jubilee clips.

it's the trigger from the lock to operate the central locking, the vac pump is energised when you turn the key, but the main vac pump is in the boot so you need the triggers so that when either door is unlocked the system pumps and opens the other locks. that unit must be shorting inside I reckon.

no, the hall sender is on the dizzy and triggers the coil from the rotating rotor arm, most VW haynes manuals for VWs of this era cover testing hall senders.

http://wiki.the-corrado.net/heater_matr ... ement.html

I'm not planning the route on Google maps for you :lol:

Southam, between Daventry and M40

interestingly enough, I read a VW USA safety recall note I found on the web today for the Corrado, the matrix fault was for the ends of the matrix pipe failing, not the matrix core itself, so that would tally, the plastic-to-metal core joint was obviously a bit weak on the original design.

the subframe to mount bolts are: N 904 458 01 hex head bolt M10x95 N 102 575 01 hex head bolt c/w shoulder M10x24 the ones from the engine bracket to the mount are: N 019 504 2 hex head bolt c/w shoulder M8x45B (3 of, I think)

This seems to be the thing to go wrong at the moment, perhaps it's temperature related??? - that's a classic heater matrix blown, dash out job I'm afraid, or at least partially out, and a new matrix required (like a mini radiator but to transfer heat into the car from the coolant) :(

you need the matching spring top plates and top mounts/bearings for whatever type of spring is being used, so as long as you use all late parts 4cyl or 6cyl you'll be OK. essentially you need the complete VR leg and all components from top mount down to where the leg bolts to the hub.

the sidelights are not really sidelights, but parking lights, the Corrado had dim dip lights via a resisitor for the dip beam filament of the main heaadlight bulb (H4) if you fit a relay you lose this.

http://www.gti16v.com/tecspecs.htm