davidwort

I've reused mine, twice. Never come loose or anything, If you're that worried put a bit of threadlock on them. I have heard some of these are stretch bolts but no idea why they would do this, they're not mega torque or anything. Edit: they just look like regular bolts on ETKA.

matrix I'm afraid, you can isolate it by simply unclipping the feed and return hoses in the engine bay and join them together with a piece of copper pipe, no more leaks into the car and you've identified the matrix. I wouldn't keep driving it as is though, if the matrix burst totally it's hot feet and steamed up windows time... instantly! :shock:

could well be. are the seals/membranes on your doors in good condition do you know? leaking coolant from the matrix is usually accompanied by the smell of coolant. If you want to lick the carpet, blue/green G11 type coolant is sweet and G12/G12+ (pink/purple) is bitter :lol:

if the camber is wrong it will affect all the geometry a bit, they should have at least marked where the susp leg bolts were before removal, should have got it about right when they put it back together... obviously they didn't. get a spirit level and adjust the susp leg bolts until the camber is about vertical or slightly negative, then get the garage to set it up properly on 4 wheel alignment

as above and cooper s

I'm sure you could find that out pretty easily from Google the golf was 139bhp Passat and Corrado 136bhp no particular reason for the 3hp difference, the engines are identical in every way, the late golfs even have the same sized inlet manifold

nope, just difficult to get at the 6 bolts, from underneath with a selection of socket extensions is the way I did it and you can just get them out without dropping the subframe if you have access to a lift.

you'll need to splice a mk4 connector on if you want to use a mk4 tank, but they can be sourced more cheaply and from the original manufacturer I think.

I think you mean air is more dense at cold temps (more dense = more power potential), VW's are designed to run pretty hot as that makes the engine run more efficiently, fuel definitely doesn't atomise better when and engine is cold, why do you think carb engines have a choke?

You don't say which engine? But it's down to how rich the engine is running, fuel doesn't vapourise and so mix with air as well at cold temps, so the engine runs richer to compensate, often over-doing it a bit.

glad that seems OK now Jim, I hadn't thought of that but when my dad suggested it I thought Ah! - that does sound very similar to my mk1 when it got water in the tank. I know it's easy to say after the event, but one thing I learnt from working on my mk1 was to keep clear of water! In particular, those cars had the air pickup for the airbox really low down and every 'splitter air scoop' mod I see just makes me think of disaster-waiting-to-happen, at least you didn't do that and snap a con rod! Most car parts are protected from spray fairly well, but not from being submersed in water. The only other thing is that if water got in, dirt probably did too, If I were you I'd consider replacing the fuel filter.

a lot of old 2.0 16vs seem to be suffering from dodgy lambda probes, you need to get the ECU read if possible, see if there's a sensor that's running out of range.

they're not that bad, I've had a mountain bike in there and on another occasion 2 Corrado doors and a Corrado tailgate in the back of mine. I've also seen a complete 2nd interior wedged into one.

when you go to that car show and pick up a spare corrado bonnet :)

the audi 2.0 16v engines were coded 6A and laterly ACE, 6A is essentially a Corrado 9A engine, same 136bhp running on KE-jet injection, ACE engine is basically the same as a mk3 16v golf but with milder cams so about 140bhp rather than the 150 in the golf.

they vary from pre to post 1992 and then there's the mk4 style shifter that the 02J boxes have, some people have fitted those to 02A Corrado boxes, all the boxes are basically the same though.

there's a flat surface on top of the box near the shift mechanism, the stamped numbers are very feint but will read something like AGC 10191

valver is not cheap to get more power from but I'd suggest to do these in this order: rebuild bottom end (so it is known to be in good condition to take more power) OR drop in a 2L bottom end, including head if known to be good (9A from Passat or 2L Corrado, 6A from Audi 80/coupe or ABF/ACE from mk3 golf 16v/late audi) - If ABF then keep ABF cams otherwise use KR inlet cam (2L is worth about 10% gain in power and torque) then, rebuild head and port/polish/gasflow including new hydraulic tappets port and internally polish inlet and exhaust manifolds (10-20% gain) set up fuelling and ignition on rolling road IRO 100 quid (could be the best bang for the buck on any valver TBH) 10% gain experiment with higher lift cams at great expense for little in point to point speed :lol: 10% gain - all at the top end don't bother with a 50mm inlet unless you've done all of the above an aftermarket exhaust and air filter(K&N/Jetex type panel) won't do any harm, but equally won't make much difference turbo at huge expense :) or give up and fit a 1.8T :lol:

lift up the gaiter and surround, look to see if the circlip on the side of the pivot is still there, if they pop off the lever will move to the left more than it moves the cable to the left as the plastic 'T' piece at the bottom of the lever wil slip sideways on it's metal pivot bar.

stick with the VW sticks unless your engine is build to rev well past the standard rev limit, all you'll do is shift the power band up the rev range leaving the bottom end wanting, I'd spend the money elsewhere, certainly wait until you've done everything else, like flow the head. My 2p.

could well be a front mount then.

need to check all the basics first, ignition weaknesses show up worst under load, are the plugs, leads, rotor arm etc all in good nick? If a clutch is slipping it's usually worst in high gears, could be engine mounting, the front is the one that usually goes, put it in gear with the bonnet up and take the weight of the car on the clutch with the brakes on, does the engine rock/lift loads?

Corrado on MSN

what engine? Does it run fine in all other conditions?, hot/cold engine?

how on earth does that work?, dilutes the water? joker: No idea mate! :) It's Wynns Dry Fuel - just says on the back that it absorbs water from the fuel tank (and lists various other benefits) but I've heard of Eric and another Scirocco owning mate talking about such additives.. so gotta be worth a shot. Will also try and fill the tank up a bit to help dilute it further!