davidwort

I think these guys do the connector blocks, I built one from wiring, relays, connectors, shrink tubing etc mainly from Maplins, all housed in a sealed box, that was over 7 years ago and there's no trace of any water ingress or corrosion. I've run 80/100W main bulbs with this too and any additional heat hasn't damaged the reflectors, but to be fair I don't do a huge amount of miles or night driving, just dipped beam commuting for an hour or so each day in the winter. I will try some 50% brighter ones soon as I can get them fairly cheap and would rather not run the illegal 80/100w ones. TBH it's not a difficult job, just time consuming getting all the wiring the right length and binding together. I've used 4 relays but at it's simplest a single relay is just 4 wires, earth, live, switching feed(from the VW loom) and the live feed to the lights, just do that 4 times really for dip left/right, main left/right. You can even get relays with a built in blade fuse so that's one less thing to wire in yourself. just found this I wrote up from when I did mine: 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfheadlight-relay-notes.txt[/attachment:1aq9k8gi] headlight-relay.PDF[/attachment:1aq9k8gi]

If you want a reliable long term modification to the lighting then a combination of a relayed setup well protected from the elements and some higher wattage or preferably higher light output bulbs is a good idea, but, I'm not keen on any of the e-bay or other aftermarket relay setups I've seen, it's all very well buying something with OEM connectors so you don't have to cut into your cars loom, but the single or even double relay ones I've seen risk you loosing all your dip or main beam in one go if a relay sticks or a fuse pops. I'd try some new 50% brighter bulbs to start with, providing the reflectors in your lights are not the problem, old bulbs are always dimmer than new and higher light output bulbs won't put any more strain on your existing loom and switchgear as they are rated at the same Wattage (55/60 - which is strictly the only legal one for these lights). There is a significant voltage drop at the lights through the standard wiring, especially as it's old now, but I'd recommend building your own multi relay and multi fused setup so you have separate relays for each side and dip and main beam, which if you feed the centre spots from the same main beam feed each side means having four relays. On second look, that e-bay one uses crush connector terminals and no oem connector blocks, I'd avoid.

OK, this morning it's back to normal, what's that all about? :shrug:

found a post yesterday sort of covering this when I was searching for posts related to the outside temp sensor and readout on the MFA, I think it's either the voltage regulator (looks a bit like a squashed flat transistor) on the back of the dash or dodgy earths.

FWD and a 5cyl 20v would go in nicely.

it reads -40 deg so i search the forum, and it looks like i may have a duff/shorted sensor pull sensor off and check resistance across it, it seems OK and the resistance value changes as I blow warm breath over it :scratch: OK I'll check continuity then... the brown/white(or maybe brown red - can't remember already) which I assume is the feed back to the MFA from the sensor is a good earth, slight potential difference to battery -ve but same as wiper motor etc I check the feed wire (red/white or what ever it is) and get + 0.2 to + 0.35 Volts with ignition on :scratch: I've no idea what to do next, bridging the terminals just leaves the mfa at -40 any ideas?

the sport had an alloy finned sump as standard, just a shame they don't fit the transverse engined Golfs/Corrados :) I think it's used instead of the separate mk1/beetle style oil cooler or the mk2 golf onwards heat exchanger from what I recall they have better ratio boxes than the Golf GTI too.

what you don't want is varying pitch to the buzz, but they can be pretty loud.

A few pics from under my 1990 (150K) car, nothing is worse than a bit of cosmetic corrosion, but there's always much more under that little blister in the underseal than you think! It's rarely been garaged up to now and hasn't lived by the sea AFAIK. I'd advise anyone to check under the car every 6 months or so and fix any damaged underseal, just like VW recommend, and I've never done - like most people. Corrado92.pdfImg_4181-800.jpg[/attachment:12al5j7s] passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfImg_4183-800.jpg[/attachment:12al5j7s] climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfImg_4184-800.jpg[/attachment:12al5j7s] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfImg_4186-800.jpg[/attachment:12al5j7s] Img_4188-800.jpg[/attachment:12al5j7s]

from what I can see on ETKA all the parts you mention are common to both.

ordinary tap water to flush it round

5L container of battery top up water (distilled water) from halfords is only a few quid.

there's a fair few posts on here about this, do a search. in summary it's a pig of a job without the proper vw hydraulic press, which also allows you to do it with the car up on a 2 post lift and without removing the beam. Otherwise you need to remove the rear brake lines, take the beam off, cut, hack, even blow torch out the old rubber and metal bushes and then make up a puller to press the new bushes in.

cheaper and in theory will outlast a rubber hose, although VAG hoses are usually good for 10 years plus

your warm up sounds pretty normal, I'd expect oil to peak after about 20 minutes steady 60mph driving from cold and water to rise faster as the shorter circuit with the stat closed means there's less coolant to heat up. In fact the system with the heat exchanger is designed to help bring the oil temp up and then use the extra capacity of the coolant through the radiator to help keep the max oil temp down. The final part of warming up would be when the stat opens, and on some cars this can slightly reduce the water temp for a while as the cool water in the rad circulates. I'd suggest you now run it from cold for 10 minutes or so idling, feeling the various hoses for heat build up. The exit from the right of the head to the matrix should be very fast as it's the top of the engine, this would also indicate good flow out through the matrix and back down the water pipe to the pump and heat exchanger. The bottom radiator hose should stay almost totally cold until the stat opens (which only takes a few secs when the water reaches about 80 degrees), at this point the bottom hose and the mid and bottom half of the rad should warm quickly and after a few more minutes the first stage fan should come on once the bottom of the rad (around the fan switch) makes 85 degrees or so. If it's a breezy day or relatively cool it may take quite a while for the heat to build and the fan to run especially as you have a newish VW rad, they cool a fair bit even with little airflow, particularly with little heat to be dissipated at idle. It's not impossible that you have some kind of partial blockage in the head and it would also be intersting to get an oil pressure check done as your engine is pretty high mileage ,I'm not sure, but I'd imagine a partially restricted oil pcikup pipe or warn oil pump would in some way contribute to warmer running if oil flow and pressure is a bit down? - perhaps someone else can comment on this?

It's a wierd one, but a stat change is always worth a go, VW ones are not unknown to come in dodgy batches. Can you fully describe the engine coolant and oil heating process from cold with the time it takes for the gauges to come up in both driving and idling? - that might give some clues. Bally has/had a similar problem on his 1.8, I even swapped oil temp sender over to eliminate that. it did improve with a genuine stat change. When was your oil cooler changed? do you have the heater bypass valves (recall job) and d you know how many miles they've done, how hot does the hot air int othe car get?

yeah, if only VW and Vauxhall swapped notes in the late 80's and early 90's , VW's had great little chassis with the mk2 golf etc but slightly off the mark engines (power wise) and Vauxhall had stonking engines (like the 2L 16v in the astra) but poor chassis.

god, the probe was a dog of a car, it's got ancient US underpinnings which never gave it a chance on UK roads, I've always had a (very) small soft spot for the calibra, granted, it's got many faults, but some of the late cars had pretty nice interiors and the 4x4 turbo shifted.

'MAF', you mean MFA? the main problem with these things is the speed reading, VW's of this age tend to over-read by a fair amount so the MFA always seems more optimistic than actual consumption, over 400 miles mine is usually pretty accurate if you knock 2 mpg of the MFA reading, even though the VR6 uses the ECU mapping rather than the manifold pressure as the 16v's do, the speedos still over-read giving the same sort of error in calculations. What I really need is a longer legged 5th, might do the diesel 5th cog at some point.

yeah, that's what I meant.

I'd imagine something is wrong with the electrical connection or switch to the passenger door, as they're operated by the vacuum pump it would lock from the drivers door but is not triggering the pump itself.

dunno who made the VW one on my mk4, the only name I can see bar the 1J0 part number is 'TUDOR ES', it's a 60Ah and has been excellent, it's 7 years old done 100K miles and is strong as ever, I've had two bosch silvers on the Corrado and a Hella in the same time span and all three have been bigger, higher Ah ones. The Corrado takes about 0.01A drain even when the alarm isn't set, which seems enough to drain it beyond starting the car in a couple of weeks.

doing the pump isn't difficult, I'm assuming it's not on a VR6. the jubilee clip hose is simply the feed hose from the reservoir and is not under pressure so doesn't have a pressure fitting. the pump to rack hose/pipe varies slightly from model to model but all have the same threaded fittings at either end and I've never had much trouble with them. the main problem with the pumps seems to be the failure(or rather sticking) of the pressure valve inside them which can sometimes be freed off by simply changing the fluid. The bearings do eventually go in them over time though but they usually do well over 100K, more like 150K.

same as KR, only the ABF mk3 16v had different valves, smaller, can't remember if it was inlet or exhaust though, the Club GTI forum has all the info you need if you search on there.

yes it does, but the 9A ones are different to take account of the longer throw crank, which is why bored out KR blocks often have the squirters removed and blanked off.