davidwort

absolutely, I've got a rear FEBI 16v mount from AVS, much better than the GSF equivalent and slightly cheaper, front GSF mount has lasted 5 years or so on mine, but for that one I think I'll invest in a vibratechnics next time it does go. I think it was crasher that said he'd used lots of FEBI rear mounts with no problems, VW are taking the proverbial with those parts.

worth checking exactly what manufacturer the part that your nearest GSF stock, more than one person has said they have Valeo parts now, which is OEM.

OK, been reading up a bit more on this, seems like there's a whole range of reasons why VW and other manufacturers have switched from the old Ethylene glycol based anti-freeze. Ranging from general improvements in chemical technology to environmental legislation. VW apparently do claim that G12+ provides better cooling and corrosion protection than earlier specs (from their own technical service bulletins), and from reading from a whole bunch of sources (plus you guys) it seems that the real issue with the older stuff, particularly in older engines, is the lack of protection from infrequent changes and wrong strengths, not to say that G12+ shouldn't be used in the correct strength. This is part of the reason why I asked my original question, because with regular changes and the correct strength, plus distilled water I've not experienced any significant corrosion on my engines over years and many miles, all 4cyl though. It's good to know G12+ is fine in older engines, even those run for years on G11(or similar). I don't think the odd reference to gasket problems from switching are that credible. Another reason I was interested is my mk4 still has the original G12 in it (no scheduled change interval listed) which is as clear and pink as it was when the car was new, but I guess a refill with G12+ is overdue.

Does anyone know a lot about this?, I was having a chat with someone at the weekend who had been reading an article about coolant additives that manufacturers use/specify. Apparently this was a test of the chemical makeup of them, including all the latest purple, reds and blue coloured ones. The results were basically that they are all the same apart from different colour dye, and it's a ploy by manufacturers to tie maintenance to franchised dealerships (another one). Apparently the anti-freeze properties can be good years and years after first using in an engine, but after about four virtually all of the anti-corrosion additives are ineffective. Would be interested if anyone else has any more info on this, like precisely why should I use the latest VW G12+ or whatever it is, over the standard blue stuff I've used for years (which is suitable for alloy components anyway).

I've never actually cut one to bits, but I'd imagine that as the rack and pinion stay in the straight ahead position 99% of the time it's that part of the rack teeth that wear over the years, and a short distance either side, so you would get play in the ahead position first. Wear in the column bearings, height adjuster and UJ to the rack all add up, bit like the margins of error in the stages of an experiment multiplying with each other to make the final results meaningless! The problem with recon racks is that they use parts that are 'within tolerance' and not new, When Jay Renshaw used a brand new SEAT Ibiza rack on his V6 corrado that's what finally sorted the steering. As far as changing the fluid goes it's pretty much as simple as removing the (supply from reservoir) hose from the pump and letting it all drain out, re-connect and fill the reservoir, you're supposed to turn the pump by hand to prime it, but in my experience the fluid makes it's way through on it's own and there was no need to prime. Run the car and turn from lock to lock until the steering quietens down (all air bubbles out of system) and fill back up to the fill level on the reservoir. If you've never changed the stuff I'd run it for a few days then repeat the process with another fresh batch of fluid. The system uses Citroen type green LHM hydraulic fluid, I bought febi stuff from GSF (2L for a complete change of fluid) which was pretty cheap. But again, new fluid can only be good, but won't fix play in a badly worn rack.

with good reason, just about every speedo is inaccurate, so it's starting off with duff info, at best it's a guess-ometer.

steering thread happy reading :)

you have to use some force to move the steering wheel before the valves in the rack open and it assists you, the whine is simply the pump and pressure working rather than idling, It sounds to me like there might be a problem starting with the valving in your rack, not uncommon when they get on a bit, can't remember, have you changed the fluid?, sometimes a change or two can help, but it's a bit like synthetic oil in a gearbox with worn synchros, it may help, but not fix the underlying mechanical problem, so no promises.

they could be really useful, what sort of price are you looking at for one off hoses to order? strangest marketing phrase I've seen for a while: 'Elastomers to meet your expectations' :lol:

e-bay

golf2/jetta 16v and golf 2 G60, passat 16v, corrado 16v (1.8 and 2.0) G60 and 2.0 8v all have the same front mount VAG part no. 357 199 279B rear is 535 199 262 (from all the above listed) gearbox is 357 199 381C (from all the above listed + caddy and polo) Only buy a FEBI or genuine VAG rear engine mount though, GSF pattern part for instance makes the whole car vibrate at idle, IMO the genuine front mounts could do with being a bit beefier, particularly if you have a modified engine. Pattern parts are OK at the front on a standard car(poss excluding G60) but as that is the mount that takes the most strain genuine VAG is a good investment but proably near the cost of a Vibratechnics one by now.

front (right one in pic) and rear (left one in pic) engine mounting brackets and the gearbox mounting bracket is the one in the centre, the actual rubber/hydraulic mountings for each need adding to these!

crankcase breather from front of block next to oil filter housing (you'll see a metal breather unit on the KR) hose goes from front of that up to intake section just after air filter. There's not much to get blocked though, I don't think either the breather unit or the hose have any metal gauze in them or anything.

Fifty quid or so worth of parts and 2 or 3 hours labour, so it depends mainly on the labour rate, but I can't see many garages doing it for less than a couple of hundred. That's assuming the head isn't warped. Get a genuine VAG layered metal gasket, not a pattern one, much stronger.

me too jim, had the thermo switch out of the rad again to try too stop it leaking (GSF crap rad), new seal and PTFE tape and it still does it a bit, getting sick of re-filling the coolant, need to finally splash out on a VAG rad I think.

2 people and a few bolts at the hinges, unclip washer nozzle feed and nozzle heater wiring, unclip from bonnet where needed.

the tailgate itself is easy, 4 10mm bolts, 2 on each hinge, it's the loom that's the problem, for that you need to remove the parcel shelf supports, seat belt top fixings, C pillar trim, roof lining rear trim and extract the 4ft or so of loom that goes down inside the C pillar, disconnecting the blocks behind the boot side carpets.

it is just possible to get a downpipe out from underneath (preferably on a garage ramp 6ft in the air) but depending on the all-in-one manifold and downpipe(4 branch) replacement you may have to drop the subframe a bit to get it in.

The bar code sticker on the cam belt cover usually has the engine code and number on it, if it's your own car then it's also on the V5 document. It may be on the boot sticker too, can't remember. What exactly are you trying to find out and what number do you have?

It was the fact that you can buy bulbs that output more light but are the same wattage (Phillips, Halfords etc.), I thought the original idea of having a 55/60w limit was to stop cars having lights that could dazzle one another, mind you, domestic lightbulbs have always been sold in the same way, which can make it difficult to choose the right energy saving one, the 'equivalent to 60W conventional bulb' isn't always accurate in my experience. I've not found 80W dipped beam elements to harm my lenses either, although I dare say they are hotter than 55W ones. Are the Halfords (higher light output) bulbs any good?, I see they are doing BOGOF again.

always thought that was daft as Watts is the energy used and not the light output :?

the old polo 1050cc and 1.3 engines were really bad for that, used to leak from front left corner of block/head straight onto the alternator, it was a weak spot where the main oil supply feed came up through the block.

50 is Corrado K is for Karmann http://www.abvwc.org.uk/vw_vin.htm

Just use the block and head off the K plate (assuming it's a 2.0l 16v) and use all the fuel system, ignition system etc from the J plate (assuming it's a 1.8L) the K-jet 1.8 system is far more reliable than the KE-jet version with all it's extra sensors. It's also easier to tune for more power. It would also be worth swapping the inlet cam from the 1.8 into the 2L as it's higher lift and will give more power at the top end.

the middle letter e.g. ZLK the 'L' is the production year(ish) L=1990 I think the numbers start again at zero for each letter/year code there was a doc on what al lthe no.s mean on the CCGB site, don't think it's in the forum WIKI though