davidwort

dunno about that, I've seen rather a lot of them sieze up. Only time I've ever had anything but understeer in my valver was coasting into a round-about in neutral in the wet :lol: sure, breaking on a bend will do something nasty, but I've always found the Corrado to be very predictable and very stable.

I think it's going to take a bit of modding, as the fixings although similar in design clip to a raised peg in the passat that is higher than the Corrado ones, the main thing is the opening and seal are exactly the right size. There may be a small clearance issue in the metal panel of the car that the scuttle cover clips too, but I had it resting in place last night, albeit without the filter clipped in, the passat one fell to bits! I didn't write down the number last night, but it's a 94-96 passat, according to ETKA it's with or without air con, no. 3A2 819 640.

Sounds to me like one or more of the rectifier diodes are dodgy, not really fixable as they are soldered to a plate that is in turn soldered to the outer windings of the alternator.

I've discovered a possible mod for the crappy mk2 style leaf cover for the blower motor. It fits in place of the original and from what I could see last night the only issues are slightly different fixings to hold it down and the possibility of water draining in from the far right of the scuttle cover as it's longer than the original plastic grille. This shouldn't be a problem with the one piece carbon scuttle covers and the flimsy plastic original might actually stretch over it. On a 1.8 16v at least, it doesn't foul the ECU units - just. There is a clip-on Jetex panel filter for the original unit, but this is expensive, small and restrictive to this one with a proper rectangular panel. The pic is the wrong way round BTW. It's passat 94-96.

oh bollards, is it still filling the sump with water then? I used a 1.8 headset and bolts from GSF and Motorserve, neither gave any problems, it's the 2L blocks that benefit from the VW metal gasket AFAIK, not even sure there is a metal version for the 1.8 anyway.

I'd always assumed the bell housing would be different to mate up to the VR block???

pretty much, some of the boxes use a different shift tower and cable bracket, but all bits are interchangeable. 1.816v 'AGC' boxes are on 88-91 passat 1.816v GT's and the 2L 16v Corrado box is probably shared with the 2.016v passat. the mk3 16v box is slightly longer legged than the 2.0 16v Corrado box again.

there's a number of cable change '02A' boxes that'll work on the 2.016v, the 1.8 corrado box is probably the best (for acceleration) as it's the lowest/closest ratios, but a mk3 golf 16v box or passat 16v box will also be OK. An 8v Corrado or passat box (including G60) will be too long-legged for the 16v engine. Look in the Wiki for gearbox codes, AGC is the 1.8 16v stamped on a flat nr the shift tower on to pof the box.

no, the 2.016v and 8v didn't 'have the hump'. there's more than one early grey cloth and I don't think they match any of the later ones.

the fan switch isn't connected to ECU, you can test it off the car by heating it and making sure the two circuits/paths switch on as the temp rises, they do give problems when they are old, also check your fan works on both speeds by directly connectinf it to the battery. There should also be another small single pin connector oin the front left of the head that switches the fan on if under bonnet temps get too high, make sure that is present and connected, they often get missed off or left unconnected, won't cause running problems though. I was told once that on the 2.0 16v you need both sensors on the metering unit disconnected to get the ECU to run in limp-home-mode, I'd suggest you get the ECU cehcked with VAG-COM or similar to see if there are any fault codes first. Non-VW lambda sensors, particularly 'generic' ones are known to cause problems too.

There's more than one, but if you un-plug them all the ECU will run in default settings, rather than adjusting fuelling etc for the correct temperature. It seems that a dodgy lambda sensor giving incorrect readings to the ecu will cause bad running and stalling which can then be partially eased by forcing the ecu into 'limp-home-mode' in this way.

yeah, and more than ever these cars should be treated to individual inspection rather than book value or service history, it's still nice to see a list of what has been replaced and when though.

does the starter click? i.e. is the solenoid working, they have a habit of sticking when old, but usually when the engine is hot as the solenoid is weaker then.

Well firstly, ask to take it for an MOT, then at least you'll know it had a decent check over and will only cost you 40 quid or so, if the seller refuses then that tells you something. I'd expect to see at least some receipts for parts even if the service history was missing, even if the current owner has only had it for just under a year.

they need to be early golf vr6 280mm brakes not the later ATE 288mm ones, reason being you can't get 4 stud 288 disks. 280mm calipers and carriers together with G60 280mm 4 stud disks is what you need. Don't pay any more than about 80 quid for a set of calipers and carriers, TBH second hand they should be about a tenner a side but supply and demand...

no, the N/A 8v engine has pretty much all different internals to a G60, for a start the compression is lower as it's forced induction on the G60.

look for traders etc. breaking corrados on e-bay, then there's specialist VW breakers around the country, last time I went to Intapart in Daventry for example they had about 5 Corrados in.

According to ETKA and from my observations of Golf and Corrado racks, the ZF rack is on LHD VR6 cars the TRW on RHD and LHD 4 cylinders. The track rods are different part numbers and I seem to recall from another post on here that the threads go in a different length into the racks although the thread may be the same.

a straight, rot free second hand wing shouldn't set you back more than 50 quid, I'd imagine most sprayers would charge 100-150 quid to paint, just don't get a light colour for a dark car and vice versa.

has that finally sorted your gauge reading then Jim?

Anything between the steering wheel and the road wheels and a lot attached to those bits too.. could be: steering column height adjuster steering column bearings steering col to rack UJ rack play track rod inner or outer joint play wishbone bushes suspension top mounts/bearings dampers ball joints wheel bearings and probably more in my case most of the play was in the inner joint on the track rods, but everything wears on an old car's drivetrain just had a thought 3corsameal, even if your alignment was done right there may be a worn component that results in alignment issues when driving and everything is under different loads.

Anyone see the 5th gear test of the UK spec new R type and the jap stripped down version a couple of weeks ago? Jap one is something like 240bhp I think, was a pretty impressive motor.

yeah, will have to pop round sometime, finally got my new tailgate on (that was more time consuming to swap over than I thought) and the new wing's painted but sitting in my garage till I can be arsed (and probably when the weather's dry and warm!) Do you have a new VAG matrix?, if so you can ditch the by-pass valve, that might not be helping

I'd get one from VAG Bally, the quality of pattern ones varies a fair bit and they're not £££ sounds more like some kind of blockage though, what does the gauge do?

The_Corrado_Buying_Guide the Corrado is golf 2 based and pretty much designed for 15" wheels lowered cars with 17" rims can be OK but some suffer from rubbing on arches and tramlining on white lines etc. 16" is a good compromise for looks, behaviour on the road and fitting of bigger brakes etc. so a common choice.