davidwort

http://www.vwspares.co.uk/corrado_steering.php

nope not any more, but there was a place we found that re-silvered the plastic reflectors, but it was quite pricey, over £50 a reflector I think

can't bear to read 'rod tax' any more, so changed it :)

all track rods are handed if bought complete, 4 or 6 cylinder cars, but just the inner joint and rod aren't

panels put up and been running since the start of the month, a couple of days I've had over 10kW/hr generated which seems pretty good as it's still Feb and only a 2.4kW system, the web interface and app is destroying my life though (OK, bit of an exaggeration), I keep watching the power graphs go up and down all day long :) I can even tell how many cups of tea my Mrs has had at home by watching the power consumption spikes :lol: back of the house (south facing): [ATTACH=CONFIG]77778[/ATTACH]

usually corroded wiring to the top of one of the oil pressure switches on top of the oil filter housing, or it could be one of the switches itself, if the wire is good, short it to the head, if it stops beeping then the switch is duff.

Line the cams up with the chain on out of the head, then place in the head, out of alignment if that's easier with the tappets, add the cam caps making sure you do them gradually and without putting pressure on one part of a cam and finally turn the exhaust cam clockwise by the pulley bolt to get aligned as best you can given the cam profiles. Once the cambelt is on you can rotate the engine to check the timing mark positions, if necessary get someone to help check the marks as you turn it over on the crank pulley as it rarely settles bang on the marks because of the cam profiles

The 'correct' track rod replacement method is to remove the rack, hold the toothed rack in soft faced jaws and unbolt the track rod, in theory simply spinning them off with a spanner while the rack is in the car can damage the rack, in reality most garages replace them with the crude method and there's rarely a problem. I borrowed a track rod removal tool that makes the job so easy and the garage that uses it day in day out haven't screwed up anyone's racks yet! I've done at least 3 Corrado track rods myself with the crude method and no issues.

best have a look at the club gti forum 'ABF into a mk2 golf' thread.

got my work cut out on the 16v, Bumper needs stripping and painting, and I've a new drivers door to go on, I've had that car 18 years now!!!

Well, the 8v has gone to Kip, just waved him off with a little tear in my eye :( bit of an end of an era, be able to focus on the 16v now though.

Never seen anything other than standard single layer gaskets for the KR, heads have a very limited amount that can be removed before valve/piston interference and I wouldn't like to stack gaskets, I doubt they would last very long.

2L? if so, use a multi-layer metal gasket, it's the same part as a mk3 golf 16v, just make sure the head and block surfaces are thoroughly cleaned. timing is easy as the intermediate shaft isn't involved as it only drives the oil pump ensure the crank pulley mark aligns with the arrow on the plastic bottom belt cover/flywheel tdc mark aligns with bell housing mark ('V') camshaft belt pulley has inner and outer marks that align with cam cover surface and cam cover outer arrow cam gears should gave the 'O' marks facing each other and level with cam cover surface turn over on the crank pulley bolt a few times after fitting belt and tensioning and re-check alignment marks and belt tension (about 90 deg twist of belt should be possible at front between cam pulley and intermediate shaft.

have you ever heard a fully collapsed tappet :) they sound like agricultural diesels.

90 is much larger, same design but a larger diameter case

don't fit stiffer springs with standard dampers, they won't function correctly and will wear out prematurely. Standard springs with slightly uprated dampers can work well or matched kits and to control ride height preferably coilovers kits, but you get what you pay for in ride quality and longevity.

Tappets do get noisy with age but it's very hard to diagnose which one(s) are making the noise as they all drain down eventually as you strip the head down. to change them you need to remove the cams and then they just lift out/in, best to change the lot if you're going to the bother. There's various ways of trying to improve he sound, engine flushes, ATF fluid in the oil for a short time, different grade oils. Worn ones won't cause any damage but it depends how loud they get and when you get fed up with it's to when to change. Engines with aftermarket cams may well develop tappet noise, either from the age/wear or the extra stress of different cam profiles.

That's not normal, I'd investigate a bit more...

The Corrado has DRLs, it's called dim dip and happens when you turn the ignition on and sidelights on, the main headlight dip beam filament is fed through the yellow dim-dip resistor, which has to be unplugged if you use aftermarket relays to bypass the original lighting loom. Dim dip is bright enough to create a beam pattern but not so bright as to pee other road users off, as in the case of overly bright LED DRLs.

There's only the Bosch k-jet ones, they're not electronic so no options, but it will run really sweetly if you change them, going to be IRO £200 though.

They do an economy bulb too, £1.30 still free p&p :lol:

Well Stealth is about half way then :-)

ooooh, exciting looking package when I got home today, was it a new alternator, distributor, waterpump perhaps? Car light bulb by David0011, on Flickr Nope, a small, but very well packaged h7 bulb £2.34 including P&P! Car light bulb by David0011, on Flickr

I don't think it's anything to worry about, from my cars it's just sound deadening over-sprayed at the factory that has dried out and shrunk.

there's not really any magic to changing coolant, drain from the lowest accessible hose joint and fill slowly from the header tank run to temp and top up as needed. any red/purple modern coolant additive suitable for alloy and iron components will do fine, or you can get obsessed about various spec VW fluids, none of which were around when the VR6 was designed :) I'd advise using distilled water rather than tap water though, especially if you live in a hard water area.