davidwort

not a great help, but a haynes manual covering the 88-92 passat covers most of what you need including the same ABS system used on Corrados of the same age, I've never actually done a master cylinder myself but it is covered in Haynes. David.

I'm still trying to work out how you visually distinguish a 1.6 from the 3.2, wider tyres I think. :) David.

I think the exhaust cams used for inlets work better on the 1.8 than the 2.0 block, not sure of the lift/duration differences though, there should be a lot more info on this on the Club GTI forum. Apparently the ABF (MK3 16v) inlet cam gives more lift than a KR one but less duration. David.

Yep, sounds good, If you're fairly sure the passat engine is in good nick then just whack the whole thing in and risk it, if you have the time and money I'd prefer to take the head off and inspect the cylinder bores, fit new big end shell bearings and a new water pump, possibly oil pump, that way the bottom end should be good for another 100,000 miles :) It's the heads that tend to burn the oil though, as the valve guides wear the stem seals leak and the tappets go rattly, not life threatening, just oil burning. If you have the head off you can check this too. I've seen plenty of Audi and Passat blocks that are in perfect nick at over 120,000 miles and TBH will do well over 200,000 if given proper servicing. If you are planning on building an 8,000rpm 200hp screamer though don't expect to reach this sort of power or reliability with an old block and head :wink: KR inlet cam will give you much better top end, if you've got one I'd recommend you put it in it's a really good compromise between mid range torque and high end power, the 9A cam was designed to keep the 9A within emissions for the old K-jet fuel system using a CAT, it gives a very flat torque curve but doesn't suit the revvy ability of the 16v IMO. David.

no, not really, it's not long enough, here's a couple more options though: couldn't find a new aero style twin door transporter, but have seen them around, imagine the right arm laying flat on the C. the single door version would be better than the touran arm as the blade is about the same size, perhaps a bit longer, but starts further up the arm from the spindle giving better clearance of the window rubber on the C, still wouldn't park flat though.

yep, just do that, very easy really, I used a 6A which has a few differences like sump and oil pickup as it was put lengthways in the Audi's but the swap was easy, the 6A/9A uses KE-jetronic, which is basically the same as K-jet on the KR but with cat, knock sensors and elctronic fuel pressure control for warm up, enrichment etc... Some of the pulleys on the 9A are different to the early KR's but if you have a KR complete and a 9A block you have everything you need, bar head bolts and a metal VAG headgasket - a must IMO and about 20 quid from VAG IIRC. David.

This is a first stab at a new style rear aero wiper, although it works it's not ideal now I've fitted it in place. The new blades need to be fixed in the centre, or very close to, otherwise the pressure on the screen isn't even. This is where I'm hoping one of the transporter arms will be better, as the bottom of the blade starts further up the arm, hopefully not too bulky looking as the arm is bigger. This seems to have started on the mkIV's forum with the mkV golf/polo arms being fitted to the back of mkIV's. David.

Transporter has 2 possibilities I reckon, a long straight blade, about 2" longer than the touran one (for the single tailgate van) and the right hand side arm from a twin rear door transporter, the latter is probably the best as it looks like it has much the same angle of bend in the arm as the standard Corrado one with roughly the same length of arm and blade, will be off to the VW Commercial forecourt at lunch time! Touran jobby took 15 mins to modify and fit and will go on the back of my Golf IV if I go for a transporter one on the C, only cost 20 quid all in anyway. All these new arms and blades seem to be the aero style now, cheap to make I think. One other costly option would be a new Octavia arm with the washer hose re-routed and a vauxhall style aerial with the jet built in, but I think lifes too short to try that :lol: David.

Here's a few pics of my modded Touran rear wiper arm and blade, works fine although I reckon a new transporter arm would look more balanced - going to try that next. I had to move the blade up the arm on the touran one and it's designed for a flat parking position but through a spindle in the screen not below on the bodywork like the C. It does look neater though IMO. David.

I've used a mixture of stuff in the past and depending on the location I've found that felt is as good as anything and weighs very little. I've got brown bread in the doors as this area gets wet but my side panels and floor of the car, under rear seat etc, has mostly felt and it does a really good job, most of it came from the roof linings of old cars, you often get good large sheets of it, particularly cars without sunroofs. David.

part number :wink:

Do you know anyone who is capable of swapping a cylinder head over for a few quid cash in hand? You could buy a complete 2L 16v for 100-200 quid, probably get just a servicable head for well less than 100, a 1.8 one would do. not really worth paying for the head to be reconditioned unless you have it ported and polished at the same time considering how many 16v heads are knocking around these days. It would be a terrible shame to write it off when I know I could get it fixed up for under 200 quid :cry: David.

Is the pedal very spongey or does it gradually sink to the floor?, latter is usually master cylinder. David.

Heard much the same thing.... :? TSR changed hands a few years back, they've had plenty of experience with VAG cars over many years and I'm sure can produce the goods, my two problems with them are that their prices are very steep and I personally had a faulty engine build from them twice, second time fault occurred out of warranty and even though it was identical to the first fault and in the same block they refused to do anything about it, I know from experience that this was not the case with some of the other VAG tuners in the past who would do anything to rectify faulty workmanship to maintain their reputation. OK, I have a bit of an Axe to grind, but if you pay top dollar you expect top service :roll: David.

just keep an eye out for a passat 2.0 16v block or an audi 80/coupe 16v block. These are 9A and 6A engine codes respectively. It should be possible to pick one up for 100 quid. Then just slap the 2.0 bottom end in your Corrado and use all the 1.8 bits (Head and all ancilliaries), with a good rolling road setup you should get around 155-160 bhp, add a gas flowed head at some stage and you can bump that up another 10-15bhp, finally some high lift cams and at high revs you'll be looking at well over 170bhp. Best bit about the 2.0 block is the extra torque, makes the car much easier to drive about generally. David.

Here's some of the bits I replaced, price from GSF IIRC: front wishbone rear bush (bonded rubber mounting) 191 407 181D £7.50 + VAT *2 front wishbone front bush (bonded rubber mounting) 357 407 182 8.09 + VAT *2 rubber mounting, inner (roll bar to subframe) 191 411 314 1.93 + VAT *2 ball joint 357 407 365 12.37 + VAT *2 rear axle bush (bonded rubber mounting) 191 501 541 16.00 + VAT *2 lower bearing ring (rear damper to body rubber mount) 191 512 333 3.85 + VAT *2 upper bearing ring (rear damper to body rubber mount) 191 512 335 2.93 + VAT *2 105.34 + VAT ------ 123.77 need to add 2 drop links to that, plus their rubber wishbone mounting doughnuts *4 and probably suspension top mounts parts for a 1990 16v, most should be same for G60. David.

I've seen a number of healthy standard Corrado VR6's produce 190-200bhp and 140 ish ATW on Stealth's rollers, similar figures at AMD (a bit higher usually though). You've got all the usual problems with quoting figures from rolling roads, comparisons with others cars on shoot out days seems fairly useful though, especially when a number of standard cars put out roughly what the manufacturers quote. David.

you missed the most important benefit, the profit margins for the oil companies :lol: BTW, if I had used Mobil 1 on my car from new I would have spent over 1000 quid on oil changes :shocked!: , who cares if it could lengthen my engine life a bit, I can get a complete rebuild for the extra I would have spent on fully synthetic :!: David.

Soooo true!! I keep it below 3K and don't show any boost until 80 degrees oil temp. Then let it rip! :twisted: It seems sensible to let the water warm up most of the way too, as the thermostat starts to open at around 80 degs? if the thermostat is shut and you cane it, wouldn't the engine be cooled less effectively than when the radiator is being used fully? Don't forget the oil relies on the water system for cooling through the heat exchanger. David.

cheers, thanks for all the replies, I think I'll just carry on cleaning and flatting everything and leave the chips and minor damage to the bodyshop, One other question, my front bumper has been replaced at some point and the spray job/primer has not bonded very well to the plastic, result is bubbling and flaking of paint, is there anything I can do to prepare this for repainting? I guess it needs completely stripping with something that wont eat the plastic? David.

It's easy enough to fit the later stalks, but you either need a later steeering column cover or slightly modify the old cover and fit the old hazard button on the top of the new stalks. David.

AGC on my November 1990 H plate, part no 02A 300 044EX, and this exact gearbox is also listed for the passat, I assume 1.8 16v GTs David.

I'm getting a second hand wing and tailgate ready for repainting by a bodyshop, the more I can prepare the panels the cheaper it'll be so here's a few questions: what grade of wet and dry should I use to prepare a panel for spraying? the wing I have has a few chips and one or two have some minor rust appearing in them, how should I prepare and flatten out these bits? I've not had much luck in the past with primers and touch up paints as any thickness of paint seems to crack in time. any other advice on how to prepare these panels would be greatly appreciated, the tailgate is pretty much stripped of parts bar the glass itself. cheers, David.

:oops: ..sorry to go OT again...but what is the blue switch pictured on page 2 then guys? the electrical connector on the end of the cold start injector

unless I'm confused totally by what is being asked for here, the item circled in red is a 2.0 16v idle stab. valve, black plastic as opposed to the 1.8 16v's metal one that's a bit longer. David.