davidwort

It'll drop to a couple of bar or less when warmed up, should rapidly rise as you touch the throttle though

My 5 bar gauge maxes out at idle when cold engine

Early 16v doesn't have a flap in the top of the filler neck so you can get a whiff of fuel occasionally

:clap:

You could use a 2l downpipe to lose the front silencer with a decat pipe and an 8v suitcase silencer with the straight clean pipe to the decat pipe, but really your system shouldn't hang low, sounds like something is poorly fitted

Might as well change the v belts, only a couple of quid. Cam belt tensionner pulley of course. While you're draining the coolant i'd replace any of the water hoses that look perished especially at the ends where the clips hold the hoses in place.

Well my dad has finally lost the plot, cut a hole in his kitchen wall and done the following. It looks a little 'Chinese Restaurant', but is actually a lovely tank. Only been set up a month, a local fish shop (not chip shop!) has done all the work so far and I think they've made a nice job of it. (5ft x 2ft x 2ft) Fluval Roma 125 by David0011, on Flickr Fluval Roma 125 by David0011, on Flickr Fluval Roma 125 by David0011, on Flickr Fluval Roma 125 by David0011, on Flickr Fluval Roma 125 by David0011, on Flickr Fluval Roma 125 by David0011, on Flickr 'our' tanks by David0011, on Flickr Fluval Roma 125 by David0011, on Flickr 5ft community tank by David0011, on Flickr

This might help but the images seem a bit corrupted, might have to reload them, post #117 http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=12282&page=12

I assumed the 8v was a 70L tank (which wouldn't fit an early 55L tank car) as it's a later car with the raised boot floor, but the other day with it close to empty I only got 50L in it ??? ETKA does only specify the one tank though (70L) for the VR6 and 2.0 8v, so it must be a 70. Actually, checking the part numbers, the KR (1.8 16v) and G60 share the same 55L tank (PN: 535201075H) but they also share the small in tank lift pump, what you probably need is a mid production G60 tank (PN: 535201075M) which is 55L but uses the full size single in tank pierburg 4 bar pump (chassis no, 50-L-005 733 >> 50-M-035 000)

iirc the switches simply have a permanent 12v feed, well maybe not permanent but controlled by the clocks, as the pressure builds the switch earths this feed through to the block, I can't remember but I imagine the idle/low pressure switch has 12v fed to it at idle and the other at 2,500 revs ish, if the feed doesn't earth that's when the clocks sound the buzzer, so you need to check the wires from the sensors to the clocks aren't broken and they have voltage at the sensor at idle and 2,500 if you drop the sump just check the oil pickup pipe gauze isn't clogged too

I have a mk3 VR6 pump in my 2L 8v, only difference is the shape of the float arm which I had to bend a little to get the right reading on the 70L corrado tank, possibly because the golfs all use a 55 litre tank. looking at the chassis numbers the tank screw cap seems to change part number with the fuel tank change from 55 to 70L, so as well as the bottom fixing in the tank you may need the to make sure a late pump top part fits the tank opening, that might stump you fixing a late pump into an early tank. I've got both 55 and 70L cars so I'll check under the carpet if I remember! also have the old 2L pump so I'll try to take a pic of the bottom fixing.

I'd have thought it would run really rough if a spark plug wasn't sealing as it wouldn't make proper compression on that cylinder, if fuel isn't burning properly I'd expect pretty black plugs on one or more cylinders too. Pics of all the plugs would tell us a fair bit.

what you need to check is the fuel pump mounting inside the tanks (or the base of the pump/lift pump), to see if the early small tank 16v/G60 will accept the VR6/2.0 8v pump, I suspect they will as the late 2.0 16v with the bigger tank used the early style 16v lift pump and external pump. There's a plethora of tanks though, something like 8-10 different ones across the models and years.

Well I've had a 16v for 17 years and that's not normal, perhaps one or more injectors are leaking fuel when the engine is off or spraying so badly fuel is not burning. What are the plugs like?

No it's not normal, is it a 1.8 with the additional lines to the warm up regulator on the rhs of the head?

do what ^ he says :) yeah they do sieze up given enough time, good to take them out, work them and pack them with grease every few years.

Just a screw underneath I think Ah sorry, read that as seat base handle first time

no the tensioner nut is not that tight, if it's the early type, which it should be on a 1990 then it's about 45 Nm from memory (I'll check later from the book), the later 2.0 16v has a different tensioner and is not done up as tight, about half that IIRC, if you use a regular spanner you can do it pretty much spot on by hand (15mm I think), that's all I do, no need for a torque wrench. belt should be twistable with finger and thumb about 90 degrees between cam and intermediate shaft pulley, too tight and it will whine.

I don't think a mk3 box is any stronger per-se, but various parts have been refined the later the box, such as improved materials on synchros, shift towers etc. Fitting a S/H box will always be a risk, if you're changing boxes you might as well get a rebuild done on whatever you decide to put back in.

Pm'd

yep, the electrics are basically the same, obviously there are some differences as cars and models are specced differently. I'd have a poke about with a multimeter to see if those spare relay board positions already have some of the connections you need (ignition switched live, earth) as all four spare on the Golf board are the right pin layout for a standard switching relay.

I've used the 10/40 no problem in the past, maybe not the best performing synthetic but perfectly good for for a 1980's designed engine :-)

Yep, you might find the cams move a little under pressure from the valve springs when you slacken the tensioner, just make sure you turn it over a few times by hand to make sure it all lines up when the new belt and tensioner is on

I did mean £100 for the oil change and MOT! but the VW dealer will be over £100 an hour labour now, but then they pay stupid lease rates for their prestigious premises!

If you just want an mot and oil change then you could do John Spademan's :-) if you supply your oil and filter I'd imagine it would be about £100 and they'll scan for fault codes, stamp your book etc, just let me know and I'll prime them :-)