davidwort

don't do it, it'll completely ruin the lines of the Corrado

there was a vag specialist in Bletchley (nr railway station/sidings???) a chap here at work got an old rs4 trouble-shooted there and they seemed to know their stuff, not sure if you would make the log book look better with a vag specialist stamp rather than just a local general independent? If you want a VAG one I dread to think what wayside charge per hour labour now.

buy a stamp from ebay or get one made up :) just out of interest, which car is this for? do you currently have one with a full VW service history?

Yeah, that catches people out, the water pump/alternator v belt drive pulley seizes to the crank timing belt pulley and makes it seem like you need to take the main crank pulley off, you don't :)

You don't, there's a timing mark on the cam pulley and an arrow on the cam cover, the crank pulley has a mark and the lower belt cover an arrow, intermediate pulley just does the oil pump so no need to time it unlike an 8v

If you're paid up with the ccgb the code is in the latest sprinter

pinking? could that have been caused by pre-detonation?

I didn't like the look of mk4 washers I saw on a corrado, the feed pipes had to lay on the scuttle area seal and it looked a bit of a bodge TBH, ok, just not very OEM looking. plus I'm not a great 'fan' of the 'fan' spray jets, they're prone to partial clogging (especially if you live in a hard water area, the filter on the pump won't help you) and far worse in cold weather than the larger opening of a conventional jet, you really do need the heated ones of these, I've had freezing on them on a mk4 with 50/50 screen wash! Wiper arm water feeds sound a better bet, but not everyone likes the look of these ether.

or as VW would say: window guide (the outer rubber one from a to b pillar along the top of the door frame) and window slot seal (the rigid straight one on the outside, level with the top of the door card)

oh dear, yep an early mechanical speedo drive by the looks of it, later ones have a electronic sender screwed in the top of the box and wiring rather than the drive cable to the clocks

the only problem you might get with a recon of your existing alt is if the diode plate has one or more shot rectifier diodes, this might make it uneconomic to repair, but a refurb place should test/tell you this before replacing bearings and brushes, I'd imagine a rewinding if the windings have burnt and shorted would be pretty expensive too, neither issues are impossible to have rebuilt it's just an exchange item might be better value in these circumstances.

nope, not worth it on K-jet injectors they actually physically wear and you won't get the spray pattern back, plus they are nearer the price of a refurb new than electronic injectors

I've tried a number of genuine vag senders and they do vary, best way to check is with an infra red thermometer, then you can be sure of head outlet temp, rad input and exit temp and temp at the actual sender.

Quality jubilee are ok, it's just easy to damage hoses with them, the original spring clamps are a pain to fit and release without the proper bowden cable tool but they are pretty much foolproof if put in the right position on the hose.

they're heater matrix by-pass valves, but I think they're discontinued, if you can't free yours off or find any second hand then ideally you want to fit a new matrix (which is a pain) or risk running it without, the problem with the early matrix seems to be where the matrix itself joins it's in/out pipes it rots there basically, so any blockage forming inside the matrix can cause a pressure build up and water/steam leak into the car in the direction of your feet and steam to the windscreen, so you can see why vw fitted the valves as a recall. The mk3 golf/later part number of (valeo) matrix is stronger AFAIK and later cars didn't need the by-pass. Running without is a gamble, if your cooling system is clean and has had regular coolant additive changes then you could be fine for years, on the other side there's a few people on the forum that have had them pop.

Hot oil, I think the switch minimum is around 1.3 bar

Have you tried searching, quite a few threads on 16v idle issues

Yes, there should be two valves, one in and one out and a small linking hose, this makes up the pressure relief or by-pass valve to prevent a blockage in the matrix causing a build up of pressure and explosion of hot water into the cabin. the valves do stick with age, you could remove them and soak in lemon juice or kettle descaler or just remove them from the system, but to do the latter ideally you want a new matrix as these are stronger than the originals

release bearing in the middle of the release arm (usually comes with clutch kit) and inspect the release arm for wear too

sounds like 'wet-on-wet' gasket sealant then (bead on each half), in which case the elring stuff I mentioned is exactly what you need

Either get some sump gasket sealant and put a little bead of that on, the elring stuff GSF do is good, or some generic silicon sealant if you can't get anything else, better than assembling with nothing and then the CV grease spins out, it may not but a bit of silicon wont do any harm http://www.gsfcarparts.com/982vg0010

you'd think so wouldn't you, then they go and put rubber hoses and rubber seals on breather units which rot away

some joints require a vehicle type/oil resistant silicone sealant bead put on here but I've never seen that on a Corrado age of VW for example, skoda inner joint fitting infom here: http://skoda.workshop-manuals.com/octavia-mk2/index.php?id=301

The warning switch for low oil pressure at 2,500 rpm may be shot, but the idle one ok, cant remember which is which but if you unscrew them the bar rating is stamped on them, the switches earth through the block so if you pull the connector on one the buzzer should sound, conversely, shorting the feed to the block acts like a working switch and the buzzer should stop. If not then there's a fault in the wiring loom or clocks.

Bargain with only 1.3 million miles on the clock :)