davidwort

With these old type lambda sensors and ecus, feedback is only used once the engine is up to operating temperature, so it won't affect the car when cold, but at hot idle I've come across several 9a's that wouldn't idle properly with dodgy or cheap generic sensors. you should also get the ecu read for fault codes, the 9a ecu isn't very clever and I'm not sure it even stores faults but it should give any current faults.

eh? just unclip the plug on the back of the lights, you have to do that to change the bulb anyway???

I think the tailpipe length, position and size may all be slightly wrong as it needs to sit neatly in the Corrado rear bumper cut-out

I'd remove the light unit instead

I had a similar problem on some rear dampers recently, at normal rest position they chattered over slight bumps in the road, replaced beam bushes, top mounts (this was on a mark 4) and finally changed the dampers and it went, just dodgy dampers (kyb's)

Yes

Ok, then you definitely need lambda feedback to the ecu or it won't fuel or set the ignition advance correctly as it will always run in limp mode

Yeah, broken wires in the door loom are not uncommon

Kr doesn't have a cat and doesn't have a lambda sensor, the kr cylinder heads are almost identical to a 9a and have no effect on emissions. I'm confused now, is you car a 2l 9a with the ke jetronic injection? This has a plastic cover over the metering head and a lambda, cat and knock sensor unlike the 1.8 kr engine

all you really need to know is if it's an early or late Corrado, i.e. pre or post 92, as you have a late VR then it's the later type with the shift weight and black plastic relay lever where the left hand cable connects (the one without the weight) there's only really the two types, very minor changes on some of the passat parts etc.

there's several: see post #13 here: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.ph...=gear+selector

that sounds painful! I'd imagine what you need is a standard lambda sensor and a hole drilled and a screw thread for the sensor welding to the exhaust behind the 4 branch, any competent garage could do this for you I got an NTK lambda sensor cheaply (about 40 quid I think) from ECP, don't get a cheap generic one though

nope, no-one. why would you want to do that anyway? - thinking of doing the Paris - Dakar?

It is, but the correct part now is the stronger oem mk3 golf part made by Valeo iirc

the spade connectors you'll connect to those rated relays are likely to be rated well below that, Power = Volts x Current 14V x 4 main beam bulbs @ 60W = 240/14 =17Amps or with illegal 100W bulbs: 14V x 4 main beam bulbs @ 100W = 400/14 =29Amps but I'd always use one relay for left and one for right, that way if a relay sticks you don't lose all your lights in one go!

a high mileage 16v can be affected by all sorts of things, CO setting, idle air bleed screw and seal on throttle body, vacuum pipe and inlet boot leaks, ISV not operating correctly, injectors past their best, idle switch on throttle body not switching/broken wires, timing not set correctly, the list goes on. Best get the basics all checked over first, e.g. inspecting the vac pipes and inlet boots, good plugs leads distributor cap and rotor, engine and ignition timing then work your way along to the more expensive end, e.g replacing thermotimeswitch and the injectors. In my experience a 16v will only idle really smoothly on new injectors as they wear and perform badly at idle (particularly over 100K miles) even if they deliver fuel fine at wider throttle positions.

Same other than the impulse sensor for the ecu, the loop over lead 1 (correction, lead 4), you'll only get this on if the kr set has detachable connectors though as it's slid over the cables

leaving in a damp garage all winter is worse than leaving it outside and running regularly, see what you can do to reduce the moisture, sealing the floor, fixing gutters waterseal on the outside walls and moisture removal inside, something as simple as regularly replacing screwed up newspaper removes a lot of moisture from the air, just as good as a lot of damp removal crystals etc. Whatever you do, try to use the brakes periodically and don't leave it sat in the same place on it's tyres.

one other thing, if the starter solenoid is weak, then bridging the terminals might be enough extra oomph to throw the starter gear out, but I'd do the switch anyway as Jim said.

Seems a bit odd to me to spend that much on a specialist charger when I just bought a brand new varta battery with 3 year warranty for 42 quid delivered. Most batteries only last about 5 years anyway with regular use, I'd just buy a cheap trickle charger and put that on once a week.

After the late 80's all the vw's went to green LHM type hydraulic fluid, regardless of reservoir cap, my 1990 16v has a red cap even with ATF imprinted on it but I has never had ATF in it and neither should it have. The genuine vw fluid may have a slightly different viscosity to general green fluid but I've used the LHM stuff for years with no trouble.

Do the timing marks line up on all the pulleys and flywheel?

I'm sure they're shaped differently, I have a mk3 fuel pump in a 70l tank and the float arm was shaped differently to the Corrado one

Manifold is the cast iron outlet from the head, 4 into 2,a kr downpipe goes 2 into 1 but has an Integral silencer, the 9a has a 2 into 1 downpipe from the same type of manifold as the kr but the end bolts to the cat instead of having the silencer. A 4 branch replaces the manifold and downpipe on either engine but will terminate differently depending on if it has to mate to the second silencer or cat, kr or 9a.