davidwort

so is it the diff that starts to whine mainly on old 02A boxes then? I've never really heard bad ones, unlike the old mk1/2 020 boxes that could get terrible I've one that's almost totally quiet at 150K the other is starting to get a little whine mainly when you're off the power They seem pretty strong boxes though, don't really hear of them failing completely even when old and abused.

Yep but it's more involved with standard type struts and springs as the spring top plates need changing too as they must match the later /vr mounts

With coilovers the job is easy, you won't need the vr top spring plates or top hats just the mk3 rubber and mk4 bearing, there's a good thread on club gti about it, mk2 guys fitting coilovers and mk3/vr top mounts

hi again, here's some pics of the 9A coil I have [ATTACH=CONFIG]69553[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]69554[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]69555[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]69556[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]69557[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]69558[/ATTACH] I quickly looked on my KR this morning, coil itself appears the same although the part number on the end is specific, which I'm guessing is because the VW part number includes the side module as one item. But like I said, I'm loathed to get rid of the coil itself as it's my 'spare' and I know they're not cheap, even pattern ones, but the side module is of no use to me and would be a lot lighter to post!

what age car/engine, 4 cyl cars had mk2 style mounts with integrated bearing, VR and 1995 cars had mk3 style mounts with separate bearings, the GSF pattern parts for the mk2 style are just not up to the weight of the corrado

Not seen them side by side but I imagine the beam is different where the bushes fit as the bushes are different to the 4 cylinder cars

I'm not sure if that bacon bra is safe-for-work (obviously not safe-to-wear-for-work)

you're not lost are you?

I have the whole thing, coil, with bracket and module on it, but I was under the impression you wanted just the module? If the coil is definitely of no use on my KR system (which doesn't have the module) then there's no point in me hanging on to it, but I've never actually checked it against the basic KR coil on the car.

A 'not for sale' sign :scratch: right, now to move this thread to the 'For Sale' section...

I'm sure I have a 9A coil at home, definitely has the module on the side and came off a late 16v, I bought it as a spare for my KR but haven't needed it so far and I'm not 100% sure that the actual coil is suitable for the KR anyway. Either way, I'd sell on the module as it's no use to me, just haven't got round to putting it on the forum or ebay. I'll take some pics tonight for you.

that's a lot of water, but good call on the windscreen, poor fitment and rusting frames can both let in a substantial amount of water, just think yourself lucky you don't have an audi, my dad's A6 has the abs ECU in a recess under the passenger floor, it acts as a sump if any water gets in! Best of luck tracing the flow, which shouldn't be much trouble in the current weather!

ah, the mythical mk2 diesel mount, I don't think that was ever anything but the same solid rubber one used on the 1.3 :lol: but there is a mk3 mount specific to the VR6, 16v and diesel mk3's 3A0 199 402 (AAA, ABF and diesel 1Z and AFN engines) and it just say's bonded rubber on ETKA, so it may not have the hydraulic centre like the earlier corrado and passat mounts and it's probably not available anymore anyway! GSF will just sell you something that roughly fits, and for an old banger will probably work OK till it's scrapped.

I wonder if it would be possible to fit a dog-bone mk4 mount under the gearbox too, mk4 style. Would that help?, or is it lifting rather than front/rear forces that is the problem? I know the dog-bone sits inside the subframe but it doesn't look like there would be much fabrication involved. The mk2/3/Corrado GB mount is basically a design for the 1.8 8v engine so not surprising it's not up to coping.

by the looks of the passenger seat the 'one lady owner' had a fat, incontinent friend

one lady owner called 'Gareth' :scratch: this is the same bloke with a 235mph auto VR6 for sale (78k), looks like clockers city to me.

no, no, no, no, no, :) just get 4 of the main injectors and from GSF or similar, GSF have them for about 46 quid each incl vat, but you may be able to haggle a trade discount (10% or so) from them

seals are easy to push on, removing old seals from old injectors is the usual problem, or removing said injectors from head, best to warm and soak with WD40 before attempting to remove as old hard seals make it difficult to pull the old injectors out. Oh, and cleaning K-jet injectors is not very successful, the injectors actually wear and no amount of cleaning will fix them, after 100k or so they are really past their best for efficiency and idle/low throttle running. 1.8 injectors are the same as mk2 golf 16v ones, 2.0 16v corrado ones are different and operate under different pressure, but the fitting is a different thread so you can't fit them to the 1.8 fuel lines/pipes.

yep, there's 3 small sensors(black tops, all the same part) and one larger one, the three small are dash water temp gauge, idle control and ecu I think, the third larger switch that has two connections is the thermotimeswitch.

Hi chaps, WUR does not control the cold start valve, the thermo-timeswitch bolted to the head does that (the larger of the senders on the end of the head) the varying resistance of this can be checked off the car with a multimeter and some warm water, I have the temp/resistance graph somewhere. WUR alters control pressure at the metering head, which does affect fuel delivery but mainly at the mid range and top end. It would be a good idea to get the injectors checked, easy enough to do by jumping the fuel pump relay contacts, lifting the air flow plate in the metering head and pulling the injectors and spraying into bottles. Are all your plugs the same colour? fuel issues will generally show up as all of them the same (sooty if rich) [ATTACH=CONFIG]69518[/ATTACH] my old injector test thread: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?43319-my-testing-the-injectors-on-a-KR-(K-jet)-16v&highlight=injector

Hi chap, good to see you back on here, I've had numerous leaks in my two and you seem to have most of it covered :scratch: I got gallons in from the blower fan/scuttle cover problem, but you seem to have that sorted, definitely soaked the front first too. Rear badge let loads in for me too, but that always soaked the sound deadening foam in the rear wheel well before much drained forward into the car. My betting is still on the door membrane as they can be right bu99ers and seem to catch and channel the water extremely well! have you tipped water down the side of the passenger door glass, ideally a low pressure garden hose for a good 5-10 mins, filling the inside of the door! you should get water appearing on the inside of the membrane and you need to see this start to appear for a good while before you can be sure they are sealing properly. Water should pour out from under the car front and rear if you carefully run water in the side channels of the open sunroof if the drains are working properly, I've not had this problem though but it would be good to do that to make sure the drains are clear and it drains out quickly where it should do. talc idea sounds like a good one, often the drain-in points dry before you can trace where the water came from. whatever you do get that carpet sponged, raised and put fresh screwed up newspaper in there regularly to absorb the moisture, once the mould gets in there it will get foul.

You know somehow I missed that! Of course, that's the obvious method, totally agree, nothing gets rid of old fuel like setting light to it, definitely go for that one.

Gravity?? That works downwards :scratch: fuel is pulled up by the pump and exits and returns via the tank lid, so draining from the filter won't work unless the pump is on and then you would run the pump dry. I'd siphon it off as vr6 originally suggested, from the tank lid above the pump if you can undo it (they can be very tight) that way you can see when you have got everything out and you may be able to suck up some moisture droplets and dirt from the bottom while you are at it. On second thoughts, I see what you mean, in theory you might be able to siphon fuel via the filter hose, but having changed a filter on the 8v recently (same setup as vr) fuel does not drain out so I don't think siphoning from here will work.

Where from? If an oil pressure switch goes on top of the oil filter housing then oil can pi55 all over the place.

As above, cheap wheels, damaged wheels, cheap tyres or problem tyres. I guess they could spin a bare wheels up on the balancing machine to see how out the wheel alone is, I also cant see that rotating the tyre won't help, few tyres are perfectly even.