davidwort

what do I need to do this? is it new: bump stop dust cover spring top plate bearing (use mk4 golf type?) nut on top of bearing (instead of early type suspension slotted nut) rubber mount (mk4 type?) top cover/plate anything else? - are the road springs different diameters at the top?, so will early-style-top-mount springs actually fit vr6 style spring top plates? I can't find everything listed in any of the old threads that touch on this subject.

On a vaguely related subject: anyone know how the front grille on the fiesta/focus (can't remmember which) works? that's supposed to close at speed isn't it.

Santana was the saloon version, there's the estate too which was the best looking of the three, the old GL5 which had the 5 cylinder engine. They are very solid cars, mainly because they are more Audi than VW, Audi engine layout (longitudinal not transverse), Audi front suspension etc. Very similar to the old Audi 80 and Coupe shell that the Ur quattro used. My dad had an estate version for years, very comfortable as it was heavy and had a long wheelbase.

aftermarket alarm? where they cut into the indicator wiring to trigger the flash the connection might be dodgy

ever tried a mk1 GTI?, 2 speeds, slow and very slow, granted it will only do 110, but VW have had a long history or poor lighting and wiping :lol:

yeah, I have blades on there with integrated spoilers, it's just the spring is barely under tension that seems to cause the problem. yeah, really rather than messing about I should have just put the lupo arms and blades on from the car I'm not using ATM. but as I took the arm off and compared it to the other older driver's arm I had I couldn't help but waste and evening in the garage trying to work out if the original arm could be improved. Now if only the wiper motor could be swapped for something better!

I remember when they first came out, they were certainly very distinctive, like nothing else on the road at the time, but then so was the Ford Sierra :) I reckon a mk1 TT roadster will keep going for a while, like a lot of soft tops, but the TT isn't exactly renowned as a driver's car. In a way I think audi lost it a bit with the mk2 TT, it may have better running gear but it had far less impact on me design-wise than the mk1, it looks pretty bland sometimes, just a short Audi, not saying I wouldn't mind one though if I could afford it!

irwin bolt grippers for the old shear nuts under the column is a great time-saver :)

as long as you have the inner column, outer tube, bottom bearing, spring, steering lock and they all fit together, you should be good to go :)

That was my first job when I bought the 8v, but it's not the main problem unless you use very shallow blades. As a few people have noticed, bending the arms into a curve increases the pressure onto the screen, because it puts increased tension on the arm spring (which grinding the rests doesn't), but this can also be achieved by shortening the connector link as I did above, so no longer do you have to have ugly arched wiper arms. The Corrado may well have had slightly different blades on the early cars, but the arm length change to late is negligible, certainly won't affect the 'wiping ability'. The spring size is really noticeable though, so they definitely tried to improve on the early arms. The main thing is they worked far better on the motorway today :)

I've just gone to swap a driver's arm (as one on the car isn't holding the blade down on the down stroke at all) and discovered there's an early and late arm, late one has an 'A' suffix, earlier bend at the blade end and a stronger spring, so VW did attempt to improve the wiper arms, just not well enough! in the end I modified the later arm to increase the spring tension (without bending the arm) this involves removing the spring and bending the 'C' shaped clamp/joiner so it's shorter, it's a fiddle but doable and leaves the arm with greater spring pressure to the screen, but no visible modification. different sping sizes on early and late driver arms [ATTACH=CONFIG]60557[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]60553[/ATTACH] late arm on left [ATTACH=CONFIG]60549[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]60545[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]60541[/ATTACH] bending clip in vice with a rag over it in case it slips! [ATTACH=CONFIG]60537[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]60533[/ATTACH] C clip now bends down a little lower: [ATTACH=CONFIG]60529[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]60525[/ATTACH]

Some of the early cars have dealer fit electric windows, these look like factory switchgear but have no window control box and so no closure on the key, you may get closure with an aftermarket alarm though. - no pun intended :)

Does look like a classic hacked-into loom for alarm/imobiliser, my 8v has about 6 inches of the main loom to the ignition switch just chopped out, so without some major rewiring the aftermarket immobiliser will have to stay, fortunately I manged to extract the alarm unit. Aftermarket alarms are really the worst thing to screw up car wiring, not only can the crimped connectors or soldered joints be dodgy or dangerous (sharp solder spurs cutting through insulation tape) but as you have found, the re-routing of cabling can often rub on other fittings, but being placed exactly where a screw taps through that has to be the worst I've seen!

when it won't start are you still getting a spark? One other thing I thought of was the hall sender on the distibutor, perhaps there's a damaged/dodgy wire to/from it.

I'll have to see if I kept the bits of my old vag hoses (the cut ones from my valver) anywhere and if they still have numbers on them, I also have a brand new header tank hose, the bottom one, a Corrado specific part no. but one of two alternatives and I've never seen the one I have spare on an actual corrado 16v, I think they must have changed the metal water pipe from some on very early KR engine numbers?

pics of some original VAG 16v matrix hoses, these have not been cut to fit matrix by-pass valves [ATTACH=CONFIG]59781[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]59785[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]59789[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]59793[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]59797[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]59801[/ATTACH]

an actual picture of your top spring plate might clear this up, the bearing in the mount should provide the movement, so it should sit on the top of the spring plate and only the bearing centre, no other part of the underside of the mounting

that's odd, I've just fitted one and they come packed with grease, mind you without sealed protection from the boot I'm not surprised it didn't last many winters, BTW inner boots and joints are new on the MOT this year

firstly, you need a wideband aerial or you just won't pick up some (lots) of the multiplexes, digital channels are broadcast together in groups on individual frequencies. An old TV aerial (10 years or so old) will probably not be wideband, the first set top box I ever tried with a non-wideband aerial only picked up a handful of the freeview channels. In theory, once the analogue signals in your area are switched off the digital signals should be boosted, so that should mean previously weak signal areas (breaking up in rain etc) should get more reliable, but you still need a wideband aerial. I know some early freeview receivers failed to work after a subtle change in the freeview system in about 2005, particularly some early sony freeview TV's, your set-top box may have the same problem, if it has stored channels you may get some, but the program info would probably be wrong now, chances are the box will have lost it's previous stored channels by now and may well do if you re-scan. so there's plenty to go on :) I'd imagine that you'd be best off buying a new cheap freview box, a lot of the early ones were really badly made and both software and hardware was pretty unreliable, in my experience anyway! Working freeview and you should have 100+ free to air TV and radio channels.

http://fanclub.wd40.com

on that note, think I might have found the reason why everyone wants to live in the south-east :) [ATTACH=CONFIG]59665[/ATTACH] http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/climate/uk/averages/ukmapavge.html

it's ****ing it down here again, bloody weather :)

to be fair, if you live south of birmingham there's little or no relief-rainfall from the direction of the prevailing wind (no big hills to the south-west) and that affects the level of rain you get in the UK hugely

not AFAIK, sure you only get fuel when it cranks, plus an extra squirt from the cold start injector

absolutely, I replaced one last year (trade price from ECP) for 8 quid, looked identical to the original vag one I took out