davidwort

the battery should have a notch in the back bottom edge and there's a corresponding 'V' in the battery tray edge, that should stop the battery moving side-to-side

or you can use a 2.0L rack as long as you get the UJ with it that connects to the bottom of the steering column.

I've done them on a car with the subframe just lowered a bit (so not having to disconnect the hydraulics) to get access with a spanner, that's the problem, they have flats on the sides of the inner joint so you need a big-arse spanner on them, and there's not enough room to swing one. IIRC the original ones were pretty tight after 15 years or so. Not sure if VW did a special tool for removing them.

my digifant 8v has used a lot more fuel with the cold starts over the last month or two, there's a bridge about 8 minutes into my commute that in the summer I was getting 35mpg on the MFA at that point, recently it's been nearer 25mpg, it's had new plugs, dizzy cap etc recently and is running really well, once warmed up the mpg is much as it is in the summer so I know it's not something else, it's just starting from such low temps that does it.

inner track rod joints? (i.e full replacement track rod) these really affect steering but are rarely changed as they are out of sight.

are you sure it's the rack? I'd check the track rods first, or the steering column.

still too tight? can you turn the belt 90 degrees (fairly easily) at the front? you might have the v-belts too tight also, just take them off and run for a few seconds with only the timing belt attached if you want to make sure, the water won't over-heat the engine with the water pump not driven for a little while.

That's good news, nice to get an mot with it on the new engine, it looks so factory under the bonnet I can't see any tester knowing it wasn't originally there. Bet it's lovely and quiet cruising along, I remember seeing pics of all the dynamat that went into it too :)

the gearbox end (selector cable on left from front of car, not shift cable) is only required for reducing the left/right movement of the gearlever, which would only make it easie to select the wrong gear I reckon, so as Dave says, not really much point in doing it, unless you have very short arms and can't reach reverse :)

put the fan wires straight across the battery terminals to test the fan (you can check continuity first with a multimeter if you like), perhaps the windings have burnt out, they can get down on power as they die and when all the windings finally pop it won't run at all. i suppose it might be just the motor brushes, but thye ar eusually OK, it's the motor itself that dies usually.

have a look at my old thread, might help on the process of fitting this: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?37728-Gearlever-bushings-replaced-short-shift-and-selector-towers&highlight=gearshift+bushings

Do you want an accurate reading from the battery or just an indication of voltage? Most of the circuits fed off the ignition switch show a big voltage drop, all that old wiring and switch contacts. Best thing to do is fit a new fused relay to the battery and then use something in the dash as the switching feed to the relay, something switched on with ignition like the heater blower circuit or glovebox light. Just use a regular 12v 4 pin relay, from maplins, halfords etc... it will need an earth, +12v from battery, with an inline fuse, a feed from an ignition switched circuit and finally the feed out to your gauge.

I don't think mk3 racks are the same as Corrado VR6 ones, they may fit and have the same track rods but the Corrado VR ones have a webbed alloy body and the golf ones are the same as the 4 cylinder Corrado ones, a tubular steel body. Whether the racks are totally compatible with the Corrado VR6 pump the jury is out, I know some people who have run 4 cylinder racks on VR's but not the long term results. The VW parts system is not necessarily correct for the UK VR6 Corrado racks either. It would make sense that the wide track mk3's use all the same PAS components as the VR6 Corrado, as the Corrado VR has basically the same widetrack (plus suspension) but it's not always that straightforward with VW!

Not afaik, vw do all the alloy fuel washers, failing that, the metering heads were used on fords, volvos etc.

Washing machine liquid is very good at shifting oil.

I'd say keep a gas fire in there but something more modern just not too out of place with the surround. Long term really contemporary ones will date quite badly but a more traditional gas fire and surround will always look nice in the room and always be far more attractive to future buyers. I know you've only just bought it though :lol: Wood burner may sound nice, but its loads more work and you have to store wood etc, gas is just flick on instant heat and really just a focal point if you have ch.

Actually, I bought an eBay one from chubnut9999 aka gpc Luton http://www.gpcvwaudi.com/ It's really not bad at all.

Yep, relayed circuit and higher output bulbs is very good, you also see something of a tail off in output from new bulbs over six months or so, but much less noticeable with a a relayed setup

standard brembo replacement disks, think pagid are the same now, depends on the stock I had a set of non-abs rears ordered by mistake for the 8v (4 stud) and they came coated, the ABS ones weren't??? so I just swapped the abs rings over as the disks themselves are identical. all the recent disks I've ordered have come through coated now though, rear 5 studs on the golf were too.

the cheapo heated e-bay ones, heating works really well too.

KR has the shortest ratios of any Corrado gearbox, shorter than the 2.0 16v. Should still pull 130+ in 5th though. sounds like your throttle cable is well worn, they do that as the lining wears due to the 180 degree bend they make, you can try to lube them but a new cable is what's really needed. You may have to get one made up now though as I'm not sure VW do them now. get a new PAS belt, old ones always make noises and a new one is cheap, then go from there.

Does the old disk have the same width braking surface? or is it the pads that are narrower? I wouldn't have thought it would make a lot of difference on the back, pads are half the size of the fronts anyway and don't need to disperse nearly as much energy. I love the new coated disks though, the ones on the back of my golf and corrado look nearly new after a year each has been on.

do it, I don't really have to adjust my driver's mirror now when reverse parking with the convex mirror, it's even better than the split convex outer strip on my mk4 in that respect.

one in daylight: [ATTACH=CONFIG]51481[/ATTACH]

had a couple of rear 4cyl mounts go recently, the front one is easy to diagnose as they physically pull themselves apart, but i had similar symptoms to a front mount starting to go when the rear was dying too, rears do about 130K or so in my experience then need swapping.