davidwort

not really, they sit under the bonnet edge on newer cars so you'd have to cut the bonnet seal to fit them on a corrado, I've seen it done on one corrado but it didn't look great IMO, fine if you want a smooth bonnet but a bit of a bodge for the spray nozzle fitting.

It's worth what it's worth in spares less a couple of hundred quid for the effort of collecting and stripping it, bottom end it's worth about £150 scrap metal, so I'd expect to get rid of a non-runner for something between this and 500. Anyone expecting close to a grand is not being realistic.

here you go, mine came from same seller but was quick UK delivery, couple of days, some of the sellers items seem to be hong-kong despatched, but I've had no problem with ordering stuff from HK before, usually takes a week to arrive. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Light-Panel-24-SMD-LED-T10-38mm-Dome-Festoon-Bulb-Base-/290573146901?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43a7825b15 Pop the complete light unit out of the roof and then carefully prise out the clear plastic lense, then check the space you have for a bulb/LED fitting, you may need to bend the bulb contacts down a bit but I got the 48 in there!

Unfortunately they are not a direct fit, literally a couple of mm too wide, the printed circuit spans all of the board so it was a bit of a gamble but I managed to score and bend the board without breaking the tracks into a 'V' shape, but this gives a better spread of light than if it was flat. I'll double check the width of the early light unit, but I'm pretty sure it's the same as the late, in my case the late non-sunroof light which has a very wide diffuser as no sunroof switch, for me it might have been better to buy two 24 LED boards instead. It really makes the interior lighting so much better, just be careful when driving as it's so much brighter it nearly blinds you at night when it first switches on :) Added bonus is they don't use as much power and don't generate as much heat as the 10W bulb does, so unlikely you'll flatten your battery if you ever leave it on overnight.

Got round to taking a couple of pics of the surface mount LED panel fitted into the main interior light fitting, e-bay £2 job with 48 small surface mount LEDs. The LED bulbs that directly replace the 10W 42mm festoon bulb are just not up to the job, not enough light output, I tried one with two supposedly 'superbright' 1W LEDs and although they are bright, the light output is not enough, more like a 5W festoon so that's been relegated to the boot light where the white light it gives is an improvement on the glowing yellow old one. [ATTACH=CONFIG]51458[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]51459[/ATTACH] The LED panel however is very good, bent it into a 'V' to fit in the unit and distribute the light a bit better, the light is very bright and much whiter than the conventional bulbs, hard to take a representative pic of how it looks, but these give an idea. [ATTACH=CONFIG]51455[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]51456[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]51457[/ATTACH]

A corrado rack and pump should run green LHM type hydraulic fluid, the red stuff is Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF), only older mk2 golfs used that. Even if your corrado has a red cap on the PAS header tank it should still run on the green hydraulic fluid. If yours has been run on ATF then that might be part of the reason it's leaking :( As for changing the seals, I don't think it's too bad, not done one myself, I think boostmonkey on here did his with a repair kit, have a look at his gallery/build thread, you'll need the VW suspension strut tool (big hex) to fully strip down the rack I think.

Well, I suppose I should have waited a while and posted this on pancake day :) Little bottle of Tesco lemon juice as it happens, other brands are available :)

yeah, I was pretty sceptical, but the wideband 5 wire manifold sensor from my golf is pretty expensive, so before the MOT I pulled it and soaked it in lemon juice for 2 days, giving it a good swill around and poking in the holes with a soft model-painting brush. Two weeks later, and the sensor that was kicking the engine check light on after the car warmed up, every time, (it's got progressively worse, doing it every few weeks at first) has just passed the MOT and the light's stayed off for a fortnight. So it does work, providing the sensor isn't physically broken in any way. Solvents won't clean off the carbon deposits, so don't bother with carb cleaner, petrol etc, just try lemon juice or vinegar, it certainly bought up the outer cover of the sensor nice and clean, so I imagine the actual sensor metals inside have had a similar treatment. I know post cat sensors, and those on older cars are cheap enough now as pattern parts but some sensors are pretty expensive and some cars have four, so it's worth a shot for a few pence :)

I'm getting ALL the classifieds as new posts ???

look at my sig above :) yep, in 94 and 95 they made a few hundred 2L 8v's with 2E and ADY engines from the passat. Oh, and the corrado never had ABF engine, only the short block 9A 2.0 16v, basically a bored out 1.8 16v.

yep, all have identical fitment, this includes all 8V engines too, 1.8 and 2L, so a corrado 2.0L 8v downpipe for instance also has the same twin downpipe fitting to the cast iron exhaust manifold. Not sure if tall block engines, like the 2.0 16v ABF from the mk3 GTI, have a longer manifiold or downpipe, 10 or 15mm to make up for the increased block height, shouldn't be a problem to use either on a corrado, but may cause fouling if you used corrado exhaust bits with an ABF engine.

top pic is not a CAT it's simply the first silencer for a 1.8 non catalysed 16v, same as mk2 golf all the other later systems have a shorter downpipe and a 3 bolt fixing to a CAT, you need a cat bypass pipe if not fitting a cat to the car to use that style of downpipe

If fluid is collecting in the boot then the rack seal is shot, you can get a repair kit for the seals if you fancy having a go. Might make more sense to get a complete recon rack though. Subframe drop job to change the rack, so you need an engine support beam or crane really if it's being done without the aid of a garage lift. I'd also consider fitting new complete track rods and ends while the rack is out, then you'll need wheel alignment once it's back together.

its going to depend on your preference, the tyres themselves, the ambient temp and your suspension, but a similar weight mk4 gti is 1.9 bar on 16's with a slightly deeper sidewall, so I'd try about 28 psi and up it gradually if it feels too soft.

What on earth pressures are you running in the front tyres?! :) I've only ever had wear on the outer edges running at 37psi (15" wheels), can't think of any other reason why the centre tread would wear than as Kev says. I'd have thought somewhere around 32 psi would be what you want on a 16" on the Corrado. Have 16's (205's) on the golf and they are recommended at 30psi on the car sticker.

Surface mount LEDs are an option, I've used a 48 LED panel (about 3x5cm) in my front centre light, it's about 4mm deep and is way brighter than the original 10W filament bulb, so all you need is the light unit surround and diffuser and 5 or 6mm behind the headlining or trim you are fitting it in, possibly less if the lens/diffuser protrudes a bit.

VW will supply the flywheel bolts, you need 6 part no. N 902 061 03 (hexagonal head bolt, M10, 1mm thread x 19.5mm long) They are stretch bolts, which is why they need replacing, tighten them to 60Nm and then 1/4 of a turn more, they should come with thread lock already on them. The corrado cable change gearbox (02A) uses a different flywheel and clutch (228mm) to the rod change (020 box) from the golf.

I used a ready to spray acrylic clear coat, no thinning required, it might not be as hard wearing as 2K but it's a lot safer to use at home, gave a nice shine and is way easier to polish out imperfections than a rock hard 2K clear.

you could try somewhere like http://www.speedycables.com/cables.html they should be able to repair or use yours as a pattern, not sure of cost though

one of the guys at work pointed out the windows USB connection 'plink-plunk' noise when R2D2 gets the plans for the death-star from Leia :)

I have an infrared gun type thermometer, point a little laser beam at something and it reads the temp, very handy for this sort of diagnosis, I'll bring it with me to any AGM/meets this year. It's great for pointing at the area sensors sit in, section of the radiator or pipework, really helps to find blockages or flow problems. If nothing else it helps work out if you gauge is fibbing sometimes, old corrado wiring isn't the best :) A brand new stat can stick, for the hassle I tend to check the operation of them in a pan of water on the hob before fitting, even genuine vag ones have had dodgy batches in the past and they all vary slightly in opening and closing temps.

I'll have a go from my understanding. The thermostat and radiator fans/temp switches are designed to keep the water flowing into the engine for cooling at the optimum temperature for engine efficiency as it was designed. So ideally the temperature on your gauge should not rise when you are in traffic, or drop when you move off at a fair speed/airflow, it hasn't really on any of the cars I've owned when everything is as it should be on the engine. Having said that, the mechanical nature of a thermostat means it doesn't respond (open/shut) immediately, different stats can vary slightly, as can the on/off temperature of the fan sensors. Comparing the oil and water temps can often help tell you what's going on too. Fuel doesn't vapourise well at low temperatures, so on the warm-up the fuelling is designed to provide a richer mixture to compensate for this. So more fuel is delivered to obtain the same power output from the engine and make it run smoothly. If your thermosat sticks open, the water is cooled too much, so the engine block, cylinders and head gets cooled too much and the ECU/fuel system will deliver a richer mixture to compensate, like it was on the warm up phase. In theory, cold weather means more dense air so more power and better efficiency, so long as the engine temp is controlled correctly. In reality, during the winter the warm up takes longer, you have lights, HRW, fan on for demist etc. so most people use way more fuel. Newer engines with more efficient designs, smaller coolant capacities and wide-band lambda sensors are much quicker to warm up and better at metering fuel so the ambient temp makes less of a difference.

a K&N type panel filter is all you need, the standard airbox is good for 180+ bhp, chopping holes in the airbox does nothing to improve the airflow and will just affect mpg on warm up and sap power on hot days. Removing the 'snorkel' tube at the front seems to help a little at very high revs, but otherwise I'd leave well alone, tempting though it may be to experiment :)

shamelessly pinched from Viz top tips: 'audi drivers, get even closer to the car in front by moving your seat forward' :lol:

it's just one plastic tube sliding in another (each support) so you could just screw it in place with self tappers.