davidwort

give the bolts the best chance they can have, I'd try a few cycles of heat and cooling, do you have a plumbing gas torch? I'd probably go with a breaker bar, slowly, and any sign of trouble, stop and try more WD40 and heat.

topran parts are not OEM in my experience, genuine wishbones do look better made and patterns will start rusting as soon as you put them on the car (much the same as any Ford, Renault etc though :lol: ) if you want genuine quality wishbones then Lemforder seem to be the ones, but they are pricey in comparison, I've seen them for about 80 quid each from Euro Car Parts before Given the time I would personally clean and paint the old genuine VW ones and press in new OEM quality bushes (or R32 ones) it all depends if you want a quick, cheap and relatively easy swap, garages rarely mess about pressing in new bushes as it's labour and costs more than just fitting a whole new wishbone incl. bushes

as it's a G60 I'd check the top mounts on the front suspension struts, do you have any uneven tyre wear? other things to check are inner track rod joints, where they screw into the rack - put car on full lock, engine off and rock steering slightly and get someone to listen for a slight clunk wishbone bushes, drop links, arb mounts, engine mounts.

pressing in the bushes isn't a problem, a vice will be fine but for the money those ebay ones look good, saves a lot of faffing about wire brushing, hammerite painting etc If I was to get bushes for a VR I would definitely get lemforder parts or the solid r32 ones, I doubt the cheapo ones would last long

oh god no, I thought I'd finally forgotten being told about 'seagulling' thanks a bunch!

yeah, the late one is totally different but the cleaning is basically the same, just get some meths or panel wipe and clean the contact surface, if badly corroded then something like duraglit/brasso will take off the oxidisation

I've an old car battery for the fan, only the belt driven fan is actually drawing air down the ducting so I don't have a motor sitting in the airstream/fumes

I've a rectangular frame with fine fly-screen material in it to let air in to the 'tent' and some large diameter aluminium foil ducting sucking air out via a twin fan setup from a mk3 golf :lol: - put an old T-shirt over the inlet to the ducting to trap most of the paint, doesn't really keep up with all the overspray/fumes but it helps, I should really have an air fed mask (would need a second compressor for that and breathing quality filters £££) but for now as I've done mostly cellulose paint so I've just used a good quality 2 stage vapour mask and sealed goggles and a disposable suit. Jim: it's the preparation that's the main problem, I've spent days and days doing the panels and wheels I've done in the past, and then cutting back any flaws in the paint, which takes a fair amount of time too. The gloss black is pretty easy in that respect, as with no lacquer you can wet and dry and cut back any drips or dirt that gets into the paint. I wouldn't fancy doing much metallic, I did the old 8v wing twice, sherry pearl (2nd time after my mrs scraped it! ) that was base and then clear coat, getting the metallic mix/appearance right is bad enough and then if you get a fly or fluff in the base coat metallic you are bu99ered :) oh and I've just discovered these guys (I've bought paint from before) do a non-isocyanate hardener for 2 pack paint which would be even safer but you can still get the durability of chemical hardening paint: http://www.jawel.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=161

I've a cheapish draper hvlp spray gun and a nice big 3hp sealey compressor I bought second hand, cost me about £250 all in with hoses connectors, water traps etc, paint works out about £25 per panel maybe less

It's just the direction switch, no need to get at the connectors to the motor or loom, th switch contacts need a good clean probably, so you just need to remove the door handle, I stripped a late mirror switch down on my 8v, now just my 16v thread

well, primed and 2k gloss black, few minor faults but nothing that won't flat out, pretty pleased TBH always paranoid the 2k is going to go off in the gun before I've done the second coat Corrado bonnet primed by David0011, on Flickr Corrado bonnet 2k black painted by David0011, on Flickr Corrado bonnet 2k black painted by David0011, on Flickr

I've got 2 pack black paint for the bonnet sat in the garage, don't know if I'm brave enough to use it, not from the health side but the last time I tried to cut back 2 pack lacquer I was there for days lol, cures so hard

that's something that would be nice made from alloy, just a thought.

Finally got around to starting the bonnet, but beginning the prep I realised I couldn't avoid the dreaded under bonnet foam Corrado bonnet stripped of sound insulation by David0011, on Flickr Corrado bonnet stripped of sound insulation by David0011, on Flickr Corrado bonnet stripped of sound insulation by David0011, on Flickr Corrado bonnet stripped of sound insulation by David0011, on Flickr foam just fell off, glue came of fairly easily with petrol, messy but didn't take too long, plastic socket tag used as a scraper worked well :)

yes, the right handles will fit and operate the corrado lock/catch, it's the lever length/shape that is important, these vary, some do not reach the corrado catch levers in the door. yes, given the right priming they can be painted fine, ideally you want good preparation, plastic primer and chemical curing 2 pack paint, spray can cellulose paint will just chip and flake off

there's a few threads around on different glasses, convex and so on too, some are pretty good but ideally you need patience to remove the original glass from its plastic backing

you really need to find a garage that has the right unions to connect up a fuel pressure gauge to the system (including control pressure), did you replace the accumulator under the car or just the pump, does the system retain pressure when the ignition is off? - crack the banjo fitting to the metering head after it's been standing a day and you should get a good spray of fuel (into a rag!) did you check for water or debris in the tank when you changed the pumps? as it's a 2L the lambda may well be suspect, these can cause big running and idling problems. it could be the ignition side too, what sort of condition is the distributor and hall sender in? the hall sender could be breaking down when the engine gets hot

vw heritage do the 17mm ones, seen them new on eBay too, they are mk2 parts I bought a couplelast year

tbh it's sounds like a rusty pile of junk, scrap value basically.

spoiler supports don't make a lot of difference, you really need to strip it all apart and lubricate the cables, while you're in there check if they are badly corroded, the design is supposed to separate the support from the drive cables to prevent water ingress but it doesn't seem to work very well and the cables can go rusty jamming the whole thing up

seems like it's a year since I did any work on the poor old girl, but with the weather improving I decided to use up some of the paint I had and do the drivers door. It takes sooo much time but I fially got it back on the car yesterday afte a week of flatting and polishing due to my dubious spraying skills flatting down: 20150513_201742 by David0011, on Flickr 20150517_103818 by David0011, on Flickr polished up: 20150517_154941 by David0011, on Flickr back on and a reasonable match, shock, horror! 20150517_185551 by David0011, on Flickr 20150517_185646 by David0011, on Flickr 20150517_185701 by David0011, on Flickr next job is the bonnet, should keep me quiet for the rest of the year :)

1 - it's your fault you've got an iPhone :) 2 - the instructions at the top of the selling section are pretty clear, cars - closed, use PM's. Parts - open threads I'm not really trying to be deliberately provocative but, going back over old ground, the problem previously was the nightmare of trying to moderate and sort out issues with buying and selling and the friction and agro it caused for everyone, that's why we ended up with what we've got. I don't particularly love it either BTW, but none of us wanted to continue with the previous (voluntary-run) dispute resolution service.

I don't think old injectors help, they tend to not atomise the fuel very well particularly on starting and at idle when they get over 80k on them, even if on a warm engine at part or full throttle it drives well. Also, the position the engine stops in can affect starting, sounds odd, but given that the cold start injector sprays into the end of the inlet manifold one cylinder can get all the extra fuel and make the starting hard and rough, sometimes requiring a few blips of the throttle to smooth things out. its probably a combination of things, but you can check idle spray patterns, smoothness of metering head plunger, fuel pressures, idle emissions/CO and on but it takes time.

quite a few versions will fit and work, a VR6 one doesn't have the right casing to mate to the gearbox but most of the other 4cylinder ones will fit including diesel ones, they just have slightly different sizes depending on the size and compression of the engine they need to start, watch out for the 2 pin connector there's two variations of plug fitting but you can probably work around that. I have a 2L 8v starter on my 16v and have used 1.8 and 2.016v ones too.

classic symptoms of a tired solenoid on the starter, heat soak from the engine makes the electro-magnet weaker when the engine is warm, by jump starting you ensure maximum current is available so that will help the weak solenoid, new starter or at least a new solenoid needed.