davidwort

looks like you drove it in and out of the garage shed on axle stands :lol: nice pictures too though :)

the fan switches can vary a little as they're only essentially bi-metallic strips, the on/off temps for low and high speed are something like: low speed on at 91 deg, off at 84 high speed on at 102 off at 95 this should really keep water temps on the gauge very steady if everything is functionning well, possibly creeping a little above mid way (90 deg I think) if sat in traffic in very hot weather. keep an eye on the oil temp though as that's the most critical thing for the engine having said all of that, a little more fluctuation than that on water temp is not a massive issue, I do sometimes wonder if old wiring and contacts contribute to some of the variation you get on the water temp gauge, everything if measured on the engine with the IR thermometer does bear out the readings on the dash for both water and oil for both my 8v and 16v engines. I have heard that even the orientation of the stat in the water pump elbow can affect temps a little, so there are a lot of variables that can affect things. looking at your comment about your fan makes me wonder if the low speed is cutting in properly or maybe even only the low speed is working? Have you seen and heard both run?

I too have a modified 2L, the standard rad is perfectly up to the job, if you think about it when the car is in traffic and idling It's developing just enough power to run the engine so will be no different to a standard car, if anything it cools better driven hard as the water is pumped faster and the airflow better, with good airflow the vag standard rad is very efficient for it's size as it has more cores than most vw rads.If you have or can borrow a infrared thermometer that can help see what is going on. You might have a faulty stat or radiator temp/fan switch, would be good to check at what temps the fan speeds are cutting in and out. If you ever pass j15 of the m1 you are more than welcome to pop in and check it out.

:lol: mine have been reused 4 times on 3 different blocks, never knew they were stretch!

That's why I've kept mine for 15 years, most reliable car I've had and the lightest corrado too :)You forgot it's got no cat and heater controls that last for over 20 years too :)

Why do you want to do this? Is it because you already have the rad and fans and need to replace a damaged standard 16v one?, because the 16v really doesn't need a bigger radiator. If you look at the 16v radiator support panel it has a variety of mounting points for longer radiators (air-con equippped car had a longer rad) but the hoses you would need may set you back a few quid.

99 has variable delay, 19 doesn't, interchangeable though.

I know this has been discussed before Steve, but does changing to the vr6 style 2 piece mounts require new springs, or just the spring top plate and nut(in place of the slotted nut on the early type?) Just to add to the pics of top mounts here are my new pattern ones just fitted, they have sagged a little on fitting but nothing like the ones that came off. If they look like they are dying they'll go back to the factors and I'll look at getting together the vr6 style bits. [ATTACH=CONFIG]48185[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]48186[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]48187[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]48188[/ATTACH]

water pump is a bit of a pita on an old 16v as the PAS pump stuff has to be removed as well as alternator, then worst case the studs that bolt the pump into the block can shear off, It's not a massively complex job but it helps to have a really good idea of what's involved before attempting it for the first time, you'll end up having to have it towed to a garage if the worst happens with those studs unless you are handy extracting studs and tapping threads out. I bought a cheapish Infrared thermometer which has been great for checking temps in the engine bay, it's got a laser pointer to focus on a particular area and so you can check for hot spots/cold spots in the block, head and cooling system.

Well I've just done the 8v top mounts and I've discovered a similar problem to Phil, the bearings on the FEBI mounts (INA bearing in middle) I've just taken off the car are fine, not done many miles but the rubber mount itself although still perfectly bonded to the bearing have 'popped' up when fitted to the car. When removed from the car they return to almost normal??? I've fitted two new pattern ones (not FEBI but identical INA bearing in the middle) and they sit much higher (rubber is more rigid) and they look like they should. I checked on the 16v which has pattern mounts too, but these have done loads of miles (easily 40K plus now) on hard eibach springs and fairly stiff koni dampers, they were fine, no bearing play and the rubber still sitting as it should. Then a thought crossed my mind, these mounts (4cyl corrado up to late 1994) were also used on the passat, but later on VW fitted them to the smaller engined mk3 golfs (GTI, 16v and VR6 mk3 use the VR6 Corrado/mk4 type mount). I'm now wondering if the rubber part of these mounts is just not heavy duty enough to support the weight of the Corrado front end compared to small engine mk3's, so the mounts are fine on the mk3 but the rubber distorts quickly on the Corrado. Whether this is because the spec of the mounts has changed slightly to suit the mk3 more (less vibration by using softer rubber) or it's just a miscalculation by the pattern mount suppliers I don't know, but it's clear that this problem is not only occuring on pattern mounts and is not limited to cars with non-standard suspension. I find it interesting that both of my cars had genuine original VAG mounts on them and I've fitted a couple of pattern sets now, but on none of the sets have I ever had a bearing failure, it's always the rubber that wears and pops up, they shouldn't do this as far as I can tell as the disc below the rubber should only touch fully as a last safety cushion to hitting a very big bump!

It could be a partial blockage in the radiator, enough flow to get both hoses hot when stat opens but not enough flow to keep the temps right down.

main rear engine mount fixing is different I think

ECP do lemforder wishbones IIRC but they are nearer VAG prices too I think, something like 80-90 quid each, so if they do top mounts they may well be the OEM supplier to VW.

did you clean the ISV with petrol? It might benefit from a light 'lube' with WD40 or something.

well after miss-quoting about 18 quid each then delivering the parts, the cheeky bu99ers at VW then tried to invoice for about £50 each TRADE plus vat, so told them where to stick them and bought some pattern ones for around a tenner each, had these on the valver for over 40K with eibach springs and koni dampers so it's worth the risk especially as the 8v has standard suspension anyway.

just work off the heated rear window switch/circuit AFAIK you could fork out for a new heated one from VW (probably best part of 40 quid by now), repair the corroded connector (it's usually just the +ve side that corrodes) so you can make 1 good one out of 2 corroded ones or just put very strong windscreen wash in the bottle in the winter most second hand ones will be equally manky unless the owner has hardly ever used the HRW, always remembered to switch it off after a minute or so or already replaced an original jet.

I've given up bothering to use it on the car, don't like the effects much, I'm using the rest of the bottle on the house windows, seems to last much longer on there as there's less abrasion and it stops the dirt in the rain drying on the glass.

only downside being you now have to drink Gold Blend and if the other offer is still the same, tuna sandwiches for the next three months for lunch :)

K-jet injectors can't really be revived, you could run them in an ultrasonic cleaner with the valves pressurised open but they actually wear out and the spray pattern can be seriously affected regardless as to whether they've been cleaned. They'll go on for many miles over 100K but the car will run so much better generally on new ones, having said that, it's pretty unusual for fuelling to produce cylinder specific problems on k-jet, far more likely to be mechanical (valve guides, pistons/rings) or electrical if one cylinder shows problems, like with your plug no. 1.

Audi A2?

Just get it checked, as long as the compression is roughly even across all 4 it should be fine. Is one plug more fouled up than the others? Worth checking and cleaning out the idle control valve and the switch on the throttle body that triggers the idle circuit/control. More than likely you have tired injectors, no amount of redex will sort those out, it's not too involved to pull them all out, and spray them into bottles to check the flow and spray pattern, something else you can rule out at no cost.

Myself and others have mentioned rust and the worst spots a few times, and yep they all have it now, unless they've been hardly used and garaged for over 15 years, even then there's one or two concours winners on here that have had a few rust nasties appear. In general anything at the very front or the very back of the car, the rear arch lower areas, filler neck/body area and the subframe can be pretty worse for wear. There's a few body weld points that are prone to corrosion starting, like the rear inner sill and of course any areas of the sill area that get the underseal bashed, either from stones or poorly placed metal jack supports. The B pillar on the doors rusts underneath the rubber glass surround too. Then lastly the dreaded corrosion in the front screen gutter, usually the result of paint damage from screen fitters. I'm sure you are right though, corrosion may very quickly need a subforum of it's own although a lot of cars seem to be broken for parts well before the corrosion is more than a few quids worth of welding.

I'll let you know in a couple of days, just ordered a couple from tps via my dad's place, he couldn't remember on Friday how much tps said they were but said they were pretty cheap so he ordered the genuine ones.

Time the engine up on the cam belt pulleys, arrow on plastic cover to pulley notch, then remove the dizzy cap and note position of rotor arm, dizzy turns anti-clockwise looking at from end of head so first cap lead/contact will be no. 1 , second 3 etc...

1 13mm bolt and clamp on 8v engine (might have to tap dizzy round to free it after removing clamp, they sieze in a little) and 2 10mm bolts on 16v, very easy job.