davidwort

I'm in suspense here waiting to see what the gasket looks like now :)

exactly as I thought, both Morissons and Sainsbury are up to this trick, and guess what, the pump price I pass in the mornings has dropped 4p a litre anyway this week :roll:

Sounds like a relay somewhere, does his car do the same with his ecu?

Depends what you want done, if it's general work like mot, bearings, bushes, diagnostic check, then let me know and I can pm you a trustworthy independent happy to fit parts you source etc. There is a vag specialist in bletchley who fixed some issues on a friends rs4 if you want more specialist work, but a vr6 isn't that specialised to work on.

They'll fit in the boot just fine :) but no, they won't fit in place of corrado cards, totally different.

In that case I'd just order 2 litres of mineral oil from vw, it's fairly cheap and fine for the 02a, they should also be able to advise on the current part no. for the synthetic alternative, but it will be 4 times as much

That no. looks familiar, standard vw mineral oil I think, will be fine in the 02A box although in cold weather the vw fully synthetic, redline mt90 or the castrol fully synth halfords stock will be a little better.

I don't think it would be enough to damage a pump, but has the fuel filter been changed recently, only a tenner or so. Apparently if the lift pump dies it will strain and eventually kill the main pump, but they usually run very noisily first and I think from what you've said you've ruled that out, might just be a bad part, ecp don't always stock the best quality stuff, especially if It's recon.

as from 2014 or something, stability control (or electronic brake distribution - whatever you want to call it), as well as ABS is going to be required on all new european cars IIRC, but there's no backdated requirements as usual, which makes obvious sense. I suppose if a car had obviously had ABS removed from the original vehicle and then you had a crash involving a fatality you could in theory be in trouble. I've not had a problem with the corrado ABS system really as far as it's feel goes, the non ABS one is slightly better for pedal feel but I prefer the old Corrado ABS to the feel of the mk4 era cars.

if it snaps off you can just leave it, wheel bolts hold the disk in place, drilling out and replacing is obviously best but if you don't have the tools to do it cleanly don't bother.

use the search yourself, just type idle+1.8+16v etc...

just got one for the nearside front for the MOT, £9 with trade discount from Euro Car Parts, looks just the same as the VAG one really, famous last words...

A bit bigger than the hole in your seat :) The box is 26.5*17*8 cm

Play them at their own game, if you shop at each they'll keep sending you offers to try to get you back in a pattern with them, Tesco keep giving me free online grocery delivery to 'welcome me back' and sainsbury have twice given us a string of 12 quid off a 60 quid shop vouchers, far better than the petrol discounts. Shoe leather principle though, don't waste too much time and effort to save a few pence.

Being the cynical type, it seems convinient that crude has dropped a lot on the markets in the last week or so too.

Serpentine belt could do with changing then, if nothing else a new one will be quieter, they're reinforced so unlikely to snap from a bit of perishing

So how many turkey twizzlers am I going to have to buy from morissons then? :lol:

cheers, kev, I'll pass that on, I've told him to take it to a VAG specialist nearby to see if they are prepared to touch it.

if only I'd known Jim, you could have done a straight swap for your VR with my sister's old 1.4 306 before she sold it on :)

granted, they can save you a lot of harm but my boss has just had a quote to replace the passenger airbag in his 2003 A6 for which the light has just come on permanently for no particular reason, :shocked!:

Clarkson was pretty funny there :lol: There's no doubting her 'fitness' that's for sure! loved the e-type piece, I go on and off them, it's the 1960's overhang of the wheels I think I dislike, only really cars like the original GTO carry that off and I'm surprised he didn't mention the brakes on them, not what you want in a 150mph car :lol: my uncle had an immaculate (like concours) red soft top e-type and I have to say that was a beautiful looking car, he bought it it the classic car slump in the early '90's for 17 grand! and sold it on for a LOT more a few years later, then bought a restored healey 3000 - I can dream on...

Like the others have said, history (not just rubber stamp service history) is most important on these cars, together with a good inspection of the body. In theory, buying a car for 4 grand from a dealer gives you some comeback (as opposed to a sub £1000 trade in) but in practice the hassle may not be worth it if a problem arises, small claims court etc... I'd always advise someone who has no real mechanical clue to ask the seller if you can take it for an MOT at your cost, or have an MOT carried out at a place you mutually agree on, for 50 quid you'll get a thorough check of the oily bits and then it's up to you to thoroughly check the trim and body for damage and minor corrosion.

take the relay out, disconnect the battery, pull the injectors out and point into bottles, take the metering head off the airbox and prop the air plate open slightly, then bridge the two big relay pin holes on the fuseboard with a length of wire with a male spade connector on either end and use the battery negative lead as an on/off switch. this is a basic way of checking injector spray patterns and flow rates but will obviosly also show if fuel is getting to the metering head at an adequate pressure, does sound like your pump is goosed though. my injector test thread: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?43319-my-testing-the-injectors-on-a-KR-(K-jet)-16v&highlight=injectors

It may well take longer, the window motor mounts have rivets to drill out and can only really be refitted with big rivets, loom can be a pita too, plugs can be a struggle to get through door leading edge, I'm not sure It's easier off the car as fitted it is nicely supported for working on. I'd probably fit the new bare door so you have a door on and can then work on the various bits but still use the car