davidwort

OK, pretty sure my CL unit is stuffed, will keep an eye out for a mk3 golf one as it's the 1H0 part. On a better note I finally sorted the ignition timing/idle issues on the 8v. It's a PITA to do, but seems pretty critical that you get the base ignition timing right on these damn 2E/digifant engines regardless of the fact that the ECU actually controls all of the advance and timing unlike the simpler 16v system. You really do need to follow a set number of steps, no idle screw or mixture screw or anything and you don't want to alter the throttle stop as it's factory set (unless someone's already meddled with it) 1. clear any faults 2. run ISV, throttle pos sensor cycles using vag com or a suitable diagnosic computer [ATTACH=CONFIG]46516[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]46517[/ATTACH] 3. remove and block off breather pipes 4. run car to temp 5. remove water temp sensor plug 6. run engine at 2-2,500 rpm 7. check timing with strobe, if it's on 6/7 deg fine, if not alter dizzy 8. plug water temp connector back on, revs will rise a fair bit and timing should advance by 20 odd degrees 9. job done, unblock and reconnect hoses etc. car now pulls smoothly from no throttle and revs drop to a nice smooth low 800 or so rpm at idle, before I had smooth running but the idle would hang at about 1100 and the isv would struggle to bring it down to 900 after about 10 secs.

there's a myth totally busted, I thought corrados were built like tanks. That pic has to be from The States :lol: either that or you wandered into my dad's mate's pheasant shoot.

result! knew it would be a short up there somewhere, my aftermarket wheel boss is a bugger for that if you don't get the contact ring in just the right place when you refit the steering wheel, you get either permanent or no horn :lol: if oil and water is that low you might have a stuck open stat does the rad/bottom hose get warm as soon as the engine starts to?

I thought Dave was still doing some mapping work? Perhaps too busy with his other work :shrug:

I read today that the 2E/ADY engine in the 8v C is a tall block engine, essentially the same bottom end as the ABF mk3 16v engine (longer con rods than a KR or 9A engine), so that might contribute to why they have a nice bit of torque low down and a nice smooth spread of torque, in fact the 2L 8v has as much torque at 3000 revs as a 1.8 16v has at it's peak at over 5000, around 120-125lbft. 8v might not set the world alight, but the 1.8T (150bhp) which is known to be torquey at low revs is only 25lbft higher and in a heavier car in just about every application.

I've really got to like the 8v driving it every day, seems to just drive without any fuss, quiet car on a standard exhaust and more than capable of keeping up with traffic on the motorway. It's not a bad motor at all and easy to work on. Some have the 2e engine and the last ones the ady, not much in it but I think the ady is slightly better, cylinder head change mainly, all are basically the same as same age mk3 gti 8v, digifant 2 injection.

usually got big VW/Audi logos embossed in the metal of the silencer boxes

fixed column is just a nice-to-have, (I changed that on my 16v, but the other car is a poverty spec 8v which came with a fixed column as standard) you can space the fixed column lower with washers if you require and it removes one whole joint from the system, so it feels better than a perfectly sound adjustable one, polo parts are just a good source for the inner column (outer tube and plastic covers are corrado specific), inner column is the same part and they don't get much wear on a 1.0L polo :) definitely worth getting a Corrado suspension, steering and all bushes sorted, they are so nice to drive on new bits :)

start at the wheels and work your way back to the steering wheel really. usual suspects are suspension top mounts, bottom ball joints, rear wishbone bushes (ones that sit in subframe), track rod ends and inner joints (inners are integral to the rods) steering rack (although that's usually the least play), UJ from rack to column bottom and then the UJ that does height adjustment (which is why some of us have swapped to fixed columns) wheel bearings can get play but they'll usually make horrid groaning noises first. Duff front shocks won't help either :) Once all that is checked and fixed then proper wheel alignment will get it spot on, no point in doing that with play in other parts as the tracking will alter as you drive anyway.

Dread to think what a longlife VAG box is now, but they certainly last, worth it if you plan to keep a car for several years. I've had similar experiences with a number of stainless systems, just because the casing doesn't rot through and blow doesn't mean the structure inside holds together or the external welds and brackets for that matter. TBH I've had better luck with mild steel cheap pattern boxes really.

result! you'll have to trace the horn feed, as the wheel boss is used to complete the circuit to earth, my bet is the wire that leads up to there is shorting to earth somewhere along it's length, probably trapped or rubbed through by previous escapades under the dash.

thanks for the offer, I'm hoping I can find someone nearer first, just to quickly try a swap as it's only one nut holding it down under the carpet :) if I draw a blank ther I might come back to you, cheers again.

yeah the late ones have a slightly different plug (diff lugs on it, but same no. of pins) and from what I can see the late one has one extra pin wired in (one blank as opposed to two blanks on the early cars) I reckon this is just for triggering sunroof closure which was not a feature on the early cars. The units look so similar I bet they can be interchanged, there are plenty of spares around as mk3's use the same part no as the late corrado (early car is passat part), I'd just like to test my old one first.

corroded and broken wiring at the spade connector to the switch on top of the oil filter housing I reckon, temp switch is the small one (17mm? hex), pressure warning switches are bigger (22mm? hex)

yeah, I popped the unit apart, no obvious signs of damage inside, a few surface spots around some of the tracks but nothing that looked like moisture had affected it at any time, I'm pretty sure it's dead, hopefully try to test it on someone else's car before buying a new one, or try someone else's on mine. Anyone else had them go bad and what were the symptoms? It doesn't click, strain, anything, and yet has power and gets live switching feeds from the doors.

nice buy! small bumpers but with single piece front door glass, my favourite vintage mk2 :) only problem I can see is having the dreaded dodgy-digi, otherwise known as digifant :lol: I can sympathise though, that's what's on my 8v corrado, with a few tweaks from the mk2 golf version. Actually it's not that bad, you should get pretty good mpg, it's just got a few quirks.

Been putting this off for ages, an alarm and immobiliser or two in it's lifespan and the old 8v's got a few electrical gemlins. It's never operated the central locking so I thought I'd investigate. Checked out the drivers door handle first, there's a loom join for the live feed and switched (lock and unlock) feeds inside the door under the vacuum locking valve and under the dash above the fuse box. [ATTACH=CONFIG]46457[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]46458[/ATTACH] so first I checked continuity when handle lock is operated in lock and unlock positions, testing from the common live (red) to the switched wires in turn showed the handle switch and short length of loom was OK. ('1.' on the multimeter is no circuit 0.00 shows circuit, using the 20K ohms setting) no problem with the handle and loom, so went to the next section, from the other half of the connector block in the door to the connection point above the fuse box (pig to get at) [ATTACH=CONFIG]46459[/ATTACH]at this point no continuity :( traced it back and although I thought the obvious place would be a break in the door hinge area (always flexing), eventually I found this: [ATTACH=CONFIG]46460[/ATTACH]blue arrow points to a totally corroded join in the original loom where the feed to the connector block splits to provide a feed to the vac valve position switch - yuck. Set to and soldered that up, cutting back to sound wire and adding a new short length then insulating. Now I can wind up the driver window with the driver (or passenger) lock, yay .. but wait a minute... still no central locking going on from either door, fuel flap and tailgate not locking either :scratch: I've never got to grips with the Corrado window and locking electrics (my early 16v has CL but dealer fit elec windows so no control box. It seems the C's with factory elec windows (control box in offside rear Q panel) have a linked but separate (and different) CL pump and control unit, probably changed in 1992 when the electrics got a minor update (sunroof auto closing etc). So typical, can't use my 1990 16v CL pump and control to check out the 8v one. There's 12v permanent live to the CL pump/control unit and it gets separate 12v switching feeds when the door locks are operated, but no sucking or blowing occurs :) Anyone got any ideas? all the units, locks in door fuel flap etc, lock and unlock fine if I suck/blow on the vac output from the control unit (in boot), must be the unit I guess.

does sound like fuel pump relay, and yep, get that fuel out and changed, it can go 'off' after a year let alone 10! no relays are the same as the fuel pump one, it has big old connectors as it takes a fair current though it, partly why they fail so often I think

there's little metal clips holding the plastic slider knobs in place, perhaps one of these is loose, also check for anything around the radio case/cage or it could be coins in the ash tray :)

Why the second thread?

Have you ever done one before on any car? You've got to support the engine and also get under the car to do driveshafts etc, a passat or golf 3 Hayes manual would help you. Whatever you do be careful, lots of weight in that box and engine, an engine support beam or crane makes it a lot easier and safer.

had a similar issue on the mk4 last week after doing the rear axle bushes, the only way we got a good pedal (after pressure bleeding and conventional pedal bleeding) was to pump the pedal several times really hard and then crack open the bleed points (one at a time as normal), for some reason this seems to shift air better than any other method and finally I got a good pedal back with the engine on (it seemed OK before with engine off too).

They're pretty handy for filling the gap over the rear view mirror especially when driving in mornings and evenings at times of the year when the sun is low in the sky. I've found it to be spot on, much better than the one in my mk4 which is too small. If you're driving in town and need to see signs and traffic lights they also fold up well out of the way. Or you could just only drive away from the sun :shrug:

keeps the sun out of your eyes

the 88-96 passat one (that is a proper fit to the passat and corrado sunroof motor cover) is probably obselete by now, I've had several out of old passats and they match the corrado sunvisors very well