davidwort

ABF cams are actually higher lift than KR ones, they were developed for the later heads on the ABF engines though with full EFI so in reality you won't get much of a different result from the two, possibly shift the power band up a little with ABF cams due to the higher lift and duration. KR pair work very well though.

I've got an 8v on about 150K and have just done the clutch myself (was just about down to rivets on friction plates, still working OK just a bit heavy), I find it hard to believe the flywheel is damaged but there's a number of things (mostly that the others have pointed out already) that could contribute to the judder you're getting. Unfortunately pretty much everything requires the box off to inspect. It could be related to lack of correct lubrication of the gearbox splines or possibly even contamination of the new clutch friction surfaces, does it look like you have any bad oil/fluid leaks that could have got into the bell housing?, latter is unlikely though as mine was well 5h1tty with oil and leaking coolant from the head flanges but the bell housing only had worn off friction material in there, nice and dry. 8v has the same size clutch as the 16v's and G60 so should last a long time with reasonable use, VW may have specced slightly different part numbers but I can't really see there being much between them, slightly heavier duty on the 16v and G60 maybe. Won't do any harm to bleed and remove and inspect the slave cylinder but it do seem more likely it's the clutch itself. Edit: although you can't see much apart from the back edge of the flywheel, it might be worth unbolting the two covers on the back of the bell housing and having a look inside, possibly also remove the starter and have a peek in there

have you disconnected another vacuum hose (by accident) or something in the process? sounds like you have a lot of unmetered air getting into the inlet after the metering head/airflow plate

all good stuff! done this job a few times (on the 4 cyl corrados), like you say, not massively difficult, just time consuming. Did you set the camber and check wheel alignment yourself afterwards? or get it done professionally? I've never really seen damaged/worn front bushes, it's the big rear ones that take all the torque/forces and tear up. I guess you fitted pattern bushes for that price, I've done the same and not had any trouble but then they may not do the 10-15 years the originals managed.

I've not seen that before, aftermarket systems usually cut into the wiring to the control box as the VW system is vacuum operated, servo actuators are usually only used on manual locking systems, i.e. those that came without any central locking, no reason why you couldn't fit them instead of the vacuum system, might be a bit of a bodge compared to the factory mountings/fitment though, you'll end up with bits of mechano holding everything in.

Tyres may be the problem and not the wheels, some are much better balanced than others new, some makes are also worse than others for balancing up. What total weight is fitted, innner and outer? I'm assuming they are stick-on weights, If both look like the balancing work is suspect I'd go back and get them to re-balance them, VAG franchise should be prepared to do that.

you need a 9A PAS pump with the longer pulley to pump body (driveshaft) length, also on a number of other polos and VAG cars BTW, not many of us in the UK get up and onto the forum at 6.30am !

yep, it adds up with 4 to change, but worth it when the ones you have are on high mileage, they just don't atomise well, particularly at low revs/delivery when worn

unless you need to undo nuts/bolts that just spin in their mountings/components with a conventional socket or spanner, e.g. like kev says with the strut top mounting nuts, then I'd just buy a breaker bar, and even then there are proper tools to do these jobs, side slotted sockets etc. I have a long 1/2" drive breaker bar that does the hub nuts just fine, for the money you guys are looking at I'd buy a new small-ish (or second hand medium) sized compressor (2hp) and a cheap air hammer gun, that way you open up a whole raft of new airtools you can use too. edit: SNAP ^^ :)

take a big end shell out and have a look, easy to replace one by one on a built engine, done it under the car a couple of times :) can't do any harm to replace them. KR and 9A injectors don't really clean up very well, they actually wear out and it's worth replacing them if you want a smooth and nice idling engine, they're good for about 80-100K but will loose performance after that. Porting the exhaust and inlet manifolds to the head is worth doing too.

I'm not sure I understood that at all :lol:

early 8v and nearly all 16v cam cover gaskets, you never see a completely dry one, nothing bad, just annoying weeps, enough to get things dirty, plus I'm not massively keep on dislodging years of residue build up inside the block and head, not based on any experience, purely scaremongering :)

cheers, may well try the ATF, just a bit loathed to do anything that might casue an oil leak, amazingly the 8v has no engine oil leaks at present, must be the first VW I've had that's managed that!

shouldv'e taken some pics, there a couple of things you can do, firstly the bracket that bolts to the front of the underside of the block (two drillings up along the front edge of the sump) can be filed out with a round 5-8mm file to give a bit of adjustment of the angle of the bracket. then on the 8v there is a bolt just above the pump body that can be shimmed out a little with a washer no more than about 1mm thick. Again, on the 8v there is a flat mating surfacebetween the bracket described above and the 'cage' that the pump is bolted into, this can be filed down a little. By doing the above you can change the angle of the pulley/pump shaft to the crank pulleys, you need to get underneath to see the angles and how/where things need to shift slightly, with the bits off the car it's really difficult to picture the angle of everything!

looks like a nice clean 16v, get some more pics up :) can't go wrong with a lumpier stick on the inlet side

Hi and welcome, check out the 16v section on Club GTI, lots of info on there, I know I'm recommending another forum :lol: but there's loads of info on there so would be silly to try to repeat it all here, the 1.8 responds well to a rolling road tune up, sort all the basic stuff like wheel alignment, plugs, leads, suspension bushes etc then pay for an hour on a rolling road and have the fuel pressure and ignition set to get the best from super unleaded fuel. Most 1.8 16v cars will see a good 10 or more bhp over standard when set up like this, really worth the 60 or 70 quid. WUR mod is nothing more than removing it, carefully drilling off the brass cap underneath and turning the allen screw inside it very slightly to alter the fuel control pressure, this effectively richens the mixture throughout the rev range and can be used to stop it leaning out at high revs, it might use a little more fuel but set right can find a good few hp at the top end, best done on the rollers though as it needs the idle CO and ignition set right at the same time to get the best result.

yep, might as well, although wait until you've got the old top mounts off, they may be perfectly serviceable, although you could buy them anyway and just keep them for when they do need changing if they're not immediately needed. there's not really anything else to replace if you're putting coilovers on, although some like to replace all the bottom suspension bolts, front and rear, they are reusable though.

it's just after the cat on top of the exhaust pipe, difficult to get at but if you don't have a lambda socket the you can cut the cable just before the sensor and get a ring spanner on there, could be quite tight though. Multiplug connector down the back of the engine is not the easiest to get at either, it mounts on a bracket where the sensors own lead plugs into the loom section.

bit warm for an 8v, but only by a couple of degrees, sounds OK to me.

I guess as long as the valves are the same length they should be ok then

not sure you can use ABF ones with KR/9A valvegear though

slipping belt, check the tension of them, how far can you deflect the belt with firm thumb pressure halfway between the pulleys? should only be about 5-10mm

On a late 16v or 8v the rear bench is flat, back of the seat is still split folding but the base would allow 3 people to sit, no reason why you couldn't fit a lap belt and socket from a mk3 or 4 golf. Strictly speaking the existing fixing points probably shouldn't take 2 fittings bolted to each, but I don't see the difference between two fat people or 3 thin ones being anchored to the floor from the same points :lol: Don't like lap belts bt that's another thing. I wouldn't inform the DVLA or anything though, would just make everything more complicated. edit: actually, thinking about it, the mk2 and 3 use the same floorplan so 3 belts should be fine, in fact people fit the corrado rear bench to mk2 golfs which had a centre lap belt.

def worth a go as new ones are over a tenner each at best, at worst it will cost you a cam cover seal and possibly an inlet manifold seal.

just connect the matrix feed and return together with a bit of copper pipe and some jubilees, temp fix until it's warmer etc. that's if you can live without the heater :)